Disston Handle transformed...

[Tom Henry]

I picked up a Disston Saw (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=49338)a week ago and sent the blade out to get sharpened. While the saw blade is out I am transforming the handle. Tell me what you think and give me some finishing tips.

[Ryan Cathey]

Ooh!! I like it! I'd use Deft spray lacquer. The kind just from the can. I'm kind of a Deft junkie so someone else might have a better idea. Someone will probably suggest shellac.

-Ryan C.

[Terry Bigelow]

For my hand tools that have handles like chisels, rasps and saws I personally like to use good ol' tung oil. I have access to top notch spray equipment and laquer and get consistently good results. However, handles tend to get a little beat up over time and repairing laquer is more difficult that just hitting them with more tung. My benches are "tunged" too and when I clean up the shop I usually just hit my bench tops and all my saws,rasps and chisels while I'm at it. As for stain, I use a dye stain I mixed that resembles Stanley's plane knob and totes(rosewood-y) for all my handles. Bottom line: it's your prefrence.

[Eric Sabo]

I've been using BLO + Shellac.

EDIT: Oh! I meant to say, that handle looks great.

[Dan Forman]

Looks great, big improvement over the way it was when you got it.

Dan

[Derek Cohen]

That's beautiful work Tom. A huge improvement over some of the flat, bland offerings that dominate.

The finish depends on the effect as much as the feel and durability. For example, oil will darken a wood (avoid using it on your Rosewood totes).

I like shellac to seal and wax for the silky feel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Louis Bois]

Lovely job Tom. I use an old proven recipe of BLO, Turpentine and Vinegar...proportioned in 3-2-1 respectively...followed by a little paste wax. Works for me.

Cheers,

[Michael Pilla]

Fantastic work there neighbor!
I've rehabbed a few handles so far and used padded shellac followed by paste wax. I started out with a coat or two of garnet shellac to add some red tint, then switched to blonde shellac (zinsser's sealcoat).

I'm also a big fan of tung oil and danish oil but I was afraid my handle might get too grimey if I didn't use a film coating (I don't know if it would or not).

Michael

[Charlie Mastro]

That's beautiful work Tom. A huge improvement over some of the flat, bland offerings that dominate.

The finish depends on the effect as much as the feel and durability. For example, oil will darken a wood (avoid using it on your Rosewood totes).

I like shellac to seal and wax for the silky feel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

On another post on the tote you reshaped for the miter saw you asked if it might be Beech. Well the tote pictured here is Beech. Notice all the short little dark lines.... a dead giveaway.

By the way I'd like to say how much I enjoy all of your posts and how lucky we all are to have you posting here and the other forums I see you on.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks for the very kind words Charlie.

I agree with you about my recent re-shaped tote not being Beech - my thoughts tun more to either Maple or Apple.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ryan Cathey]

What I tell you about someone suggesting shellac lol!

-Ryan C.

[Alan Turner]

Tom,
Nice job! I might undercut the curve on the bottom horn just a bit. The softness of the grip is right on.
I use shellac. A couple of thin coats, padded on. It is easy to renew. I might put a bit of color into the wood. A redish orange, but light. Bring it to the next MCWW meeting and we can play with the color a bit.

[Tom Henry]

Alan-

It's too late! I stained it with a rosewood stain and shellaced it. It was the first time I used shellac and I could have done better to say the least. I was not happy with the way the stain took either! I will post pics of the finished peice as soon as I take the pics. I could always sand and start over...:(