Router top questions

[Jim Dunn]

I started a top for a router table and I have a question or two:

1 Should I apply formica to the top of the table before I dado for the mitre.

2 Can I apply formica with standard glue i.e. titebond? Or should I use contact cement?

Simple really but I need to know as the dado is the next step. Thanks in advance.

[Terry Bigelow]

1. Yes
2.No wood glue. Use contact cement.
Short and sweet answers!

[Hoa Dinh]

1 Should I apply formica to the top of the table before I dado for the mitre.

No.

I mean no miter slot -> no dado.

[glenn bradley]

What Terry said.

[Mike Hill]

Jim: Just finished a router table and Terry is correct. The BORGS sell an adhesive roller and contact cement by the quart or gallon. After you apply adhesive to both sides, be sure and put 3 or so wood strips on the base. Line up the Formica so you have some overlap on all sides and remove the center strip first, then the others and roll it out with a J-Roller.
Mike

[James Carmichael]

Be careful with the CA adhesive, use it outdoors if possible.

[Joe Spear]

Use contact cement, and put laminate on the top and bottom of your table top. A lot of people would say not to put a miter slot in the table because it weakens it and might cause some sagging. Also, it is very difficult to get the slot perfectly straight to the fence. You can do everything you need to do without a miter slot if you use the proper jigs and techniques.

[Dan Lyke]

Joe, I'm at exactly that stage with my router table, and the main reason I can see for putting a T-track inset in front of the cutter is to hold featherboards and similar guides.

Since I imagine that any moving guide is going to be riding on a carriage on the fence (ie: holding a board vertical so I can cut dovetails in the end), would I be better suited with a few holes wth T-nuts underneath for featherboards on the surface of the table and just putting a T-track on the fence?

I have the T-track, but if I should use those 2 feet of it for something else then so much the better!

(Perspective: I'm a newbie hobbiest. I've built a few bookshelves and such, and done some basic carpentry, but I'm kinda new to "woodworking". This is, for instance, my first router table.)

[Jim Dunn]

Well I got the formica top on without any trouble, but, I used the glue in doors in the garage and was sick as a dog about 4am. I'll learn eventually.

Joe as the fence is adjustable in relationship to the mitre slot why not put on in. As to strength, my top is 1 7/8" inches thick, I'm only routering for the metal mitre slot. I do plan to put some "T" track in it as well for a fence to hold down, or I might build a fence that clamps to the edges of the top. Not sure which way to go yet.

Thanks all for your input.

[Joe Spear]

A 1 7/8" thick top might be all right with a miter slot in it. You could cross-brace underneath the top across the location of the slot to reinforce further. I liked the idea about using holes for t-bolts to mount horizontal featherboards. It would take some fiddling with homemade wide featherboards with a series of slots perpendicular to the fence, and a row of holes along the fence on each side of the bit opening, but it could be done. However, a miter slot with a t-track would simplify things and accept more different kinds of jigs and guides. If the fence is moveable enough, you could get it parallel to the slot. I have an Incra fence with slots in the face, so vertical featherboards are easy on my table. You could do the same by cutting slots in the main fence or an auxiliary fence.

[Randall Davis]

just a reminder be very careful when you use any type of chemicals. i do dyalisis treatments 3 times a week and beleive my kidney failure was caused from the chemicals when finishing my hardwood floors

[Brad Townsend]

Also, use the water-based contact cement. While not 100% safe either, it's light years friendlier than the solvent based stuff. Some would suggest that the adhesion is not as good, but I have yet to have it fail on me.

[pat warner]

This top (http://www.patwarner.com/images/bdpwf.jpg) has been finished twice with GF tung/poly, no formica. Wears very well and has no provision for a mitergage. Expect some adversity with the gage.
The work, when x-cut, has to be backed x some stock to keep it from splitting. Seems like a sled to carry the work is a better approach to cutting the ends of stock.
Routers (http://www.patwarner.com)