Drywall question

[Thomas Haider]

Hello, I've been lurking here for a long time & have just recently joined. Before I go further, I must say that you guys are my heroes. Rock stars you are. On my first post I wnated to show you pictures of my shop ect. but priorities got in the way. So on to my question.... I have a smallish bathroom 12 X 8. I just peeled off the paneling that was glued to the drywall (dw). Naturally the paper from the dw came off with the paneling. The dw is in good shape, stable , nothing loose or crumbling, other than the shreds of paper hanging all over. I was going to seal it with primer and try to skim coat it which I've never done before. My LOML vetoed that idea because peeling off the remaining bits of paper left, before sealing, would take forever. She wanted me to panel it. I vetoed that and suggested 1/4" dw screwed & glued to the existing dw. So I'm doing that. I'll be doing the tapeing, sanding & primeing too.This is my question--- when I butt the dw against the ceiling, do I have to tape that corner? Or can I caulk it and plaster that tapered edge? The ceiling is textured, if I have to tape that corner I'll have to scrape some of the texture off the ceiling to alow a flat surface for the tape. If I caulk that
corner & plaster will it crack over time?

[Dewayne Reding]

I would tape all the seams. Drywall unsupported for 16" anywhere is a bad plan. Should you choose not to go that route, then secure the top edge as well as possible. You can scab in some nailers if necessary between the studs. By the time you do that you will have had time to do it correctly and just tape it.

Disclaimer, I am not a pro drywaller, but I have done complete houses, and patched enough so I do have a clue.

[Steve Clardy]

Screw the top every 8" and caulk it.
There is 2 by material all the way across that wall.

No sense is messing up the ceiling

[Ben Grunow]

As a woodworker on a wood working site, you should install crown molding to cover that joint! (no taping or caulking)

Welcome to the creek and I too suggest taping all joints unless you opt for the crown, then just caulk and cover.

The only other thought I have is to bed the top of the 1/4" dw in compound when installing. If the mud was behind and in the joint and backed up by an already taped corner joint it might not crack over time.

Good luck and post pics

Ben

[Thomas Haider]

Thanks guys, now I have to make a choice.
Ben, the LOML said exactly the same thing about crown. HUH!


Thanks again I owe ya.

T

[David G Baker]

I agree on the crown molding. It will look the best, be the quickest and the LOYL will thank you. Messing with textured ceilings is a job for someone that really knows what he is doing if it is going to look right.
David B

[Dan Mages]

You can kinda support the drywall on the ceiling by screwing that in first and then put in the walls to help hold it up.

Crown molding is a good choice. I reccommend checking local home centers for some made with PVC. It is perfect in the bathroom as it will not warp, split, or do anything funky due to the high humidity.

[Joe Pelonio]

I had the exact same issue in my 1/2 bath! What I did was to install new 1/4" drywall over the messed up drywall. Just had to do a little trimming on the
baseboards. I did tape the wall to ceiling joints, and a thin crown molding as well. Worked out great.

One day I have to do something about that paneling on the front entry wall. It's a 2-story high wall, and that thin mahogany stuff popular in the late 70's.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello Thomas,
In our case we stripped off tile - mid 50's vintage salmon pink - that had been painted over.
As you can see in the pictures, some of what was hiddden behind the drywall required going all the way down to the studs.
On the top half of the wall I got by just putting a skim coat of mud on.
The lower half is going to be done with White Ice bead board, framed with oak.
The cement Durock around the tub is this weekend's task along with replacing the studs in the foreground - left - by the tub where water had gotten into them slightly.
I opted to go the more complete route of removal simply because the house is empty - eventually it would have to be done anwhow and now's as good a time as any.

[David G Baker]

I usually strip the walls down to the studs because many times an up grade requires new wiring, plumbing and sometimes even a new floor. I have found that in many cases it takes less time to completely replace the sheet rock than it does to patch it and join it to the older material. There can be less seams. Sometimes the studs have warped or are uneven, this can be corrected with an open wall. If there is an out side wall, insulation can be added if needed. Hidden water or insect damage can be found and corrected. Sometimes it ends up costing less as well.
This is going to be my big 2007 project. Wonder what the LOML is going to do about bathing? Our other bathroom has a stool and sink.
Just my 2 cents.
David B

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I just peeled off the paneling that was glued to the drywall (dw). Naturally the paper from the dw came off with the paneling. The dw is in good shape, stable , nothing loose or crumbling, other than the shreds of paper hanging all over. I was going to seal it with primer and try to skim coat it which I've never done before.

I have done that with joint compound when removing wall paper. It works - sort of.