Putting link belts on a cabinet saw????

[Glen Blanchard]

I have a friend who told me the other day that he put link belts on a Jet 3 hp cabinet saw. I thought I had read that this is a bad idea, and that the belts should not only be changed all at the same time but only with belts designed for a multi-belt cabinet saw.

Comments?

[Tyler Howell]

I can only speak for ........All the toyls in my shop.
I put linked belts and on my old Cman that walked all over the shop floor. I've replace that saw with a PM 66 but it's still is in service at the lake place. The linked belt calmed that Cman right down to pass the nickle test.

[M Toupin]

Glen,

Be sure to get the correct size belts if you decide to go that route. Most hobbyist machines, bandsaws, contractor type table saws, drill presses etc with single sheave pulleys use a 1/2" wide belt (4L). If your cabinet saw is a unisaw type with the 3 sheave pulley then you will most likely need a 3L or a 3/8" belt. Link belts have their place, but a good quality belt will more than likely make you just as happy for a lot less than the cost of link belts. While lots of folks will tout the great results they got installing a new link belt on their machine, keep in mind they're replacing either a cheap or old worn out belt to Begin with. Link belts are great when installing a new belt would mean disassembling the machine, like a lathe headstock, I use them myself. At 3X or more the cost of a good quality belt you pay for that convenience though. The link belts also stretch a good bit more than a regular belt as they settle in. You'll need to adjust them as they stretch, maybe even need to take a link out. Any good power transmission/bearing supply house will have both regular and link belts a lot cheaper than the woodworking places.

Mike

[Michael Gibbons]

I have about 20 feet of link belt in the basement and will change to that on my Unisaw when I get around to it. As long as you have the exact same number of links for each of the belts ,then you should have no problem. I've already changed the belts on my drill press, lathe and bandsaw. Seems to be the ticket.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I remember reading that link belts should not be used in applications that require two or three belts per pulley. Eventhough each belt may have the same quantity of links, the inherent design of individual links that must 'seat' themselves will always cause the belts to be slightly different from each other and therefore impair power transfer.

Many times a machine runs rough is because the belt has developed a 'set' to it. This can happen if the machine was not used in a long time, or the belt was kinked in storage. This was the case with my Jet Bandsaw.

An alternative to a link belt that will provide good flexibility with minimal vibration is a cog belt. They look like a normal belt but with notches along the inside edge for improved flexibility. They are readily available at Grainger or McMaster Carr.

As for a Unisaw, the belts that came on my Unisaw are pretty smooth. I'm not sure if I would gain anything by changing them.

-Jeff :)

[Glen Blanchard]

I remember reading that link belts should not be used in applications that require two or three belts per pulley.

This is what I remember and to what I was referring.

[Jim Becker]

I did it years ago and it's been wonderful. No problems. The saw ran smoother, quieter and the "cold belt bang" went away with that upgrade. One thing about link-belts is that they will initially stretch...so be sure to re-tension after a few days and then check them weekly for the first month or so. After that, they should be fine.

I do understand that folks talk about "matched sets" and with traditional belts this really is critical for best power transmission. But I think (non-scientifically, of course) that with three belts, any slight variation is self-mitigated with the link belts after the above mentioned re-tensioning over time...at least in easily measurable terms. I have never found anything too thick and hard that I couldn't cut on the 3hp Jet cabinet saw with the link belts in play.

[Steve Clardy]

I have them on my 3-belt 1023 saw. No problem
Saw runs smoother

Readjusted them after a week

[Howard Acheson]

A few years ago, Delta came out against using link belts on their table saws. I don't recall the reason.

Personally, I don't see the benefit.

[Greg Cole]

I deal with machinery at work with up to 250 HP motors and up to 8 groove pulleys driving 5 and 6 stage reduction gear boxes (1500:1 isn't unusual) producing torque values that are astronomical (like 25,000 nm or more!) Matched belts are essential for these applications, but for small horse power situations with 2 or 3 groove pulleys it is no where as much an issue.
Belt memory coupled with the fact tha OEM's usually use the el-cheapo belts are the main contributors.
The link belts are a toss up to me. I used a set on my old TS which helped that machine (similar to old Cman referred to by Tyler). But on my new General, I machined a couple pulleys to convert it to a double belt drive and opted for the standard issue Gates belts.. smooth as silk and it rips through the tickest hardest stuff I've ever tossed at it. Yes, I actually made the pulleys.... my pension of making things I can readily buy goes beyond what is made of wood!

[Ken Milhinch]

I used Powertwist belts on my Table Saw (Jet), Jointer (Jet), Drill Press & Bandsaw, and I noticed an improvement in all cases. I have also fitted them to my garden mulcher and it loves them too. They are definitely better than a standard belt.