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View Full Version : Rigid TS3650 or Grizzly Hybrid



Charles Wilson
01-16-2007, 11:59 AM
I have been doing the research and would like to make a decision so I can start making storm windows, sandbox, an entrance bench/coat hanger, and other stuff.

Everyone that has had one claims that the Rigid is a good saw and have liked it.

For me, the mobile base is a plus, the 120 v and 13 amp is a plus, the proximity of the HD is a plus, Emerson motor is a plus, and peoples evaluation of the saw on here is a plus. The motor sticking out of the back doesn't bother me and dust collection (I plan on having a port out of the bottom and it is going to be in the garage) doesn't bother me.

I don't know much about the Griz Hybrid.

I read the Table Saw book and Kelly ? brings up some points on a contractor saw bogging down on HD woods. Is this something someone can share with me? Also, I am not concerned about running sheet goods through it as I have an EZ system and will use it for my panel cutting.

Regards,
Chuck

John Branam
01-16-2007, 12:37 PM
I have the Ridgid and I have been real happy with it. I have had it for a little over 2 years and have experienced no problems, it stays tuned and cuts smoothly. I have run oak, walnut, mdf, and other sheet goods through with out ever having the motor bog down. I like the cast iron top and the room past the right extension wing is where I mounted my router table. The only negative I have is the saw at just under 300lbs. is a bit light, but adding a bag of sand on top of the herc-u-lift will take care of that.

Lou Morrissette
01-16-2007, 12:52 PM
I've had the 3650 for almost 2 years and have had no problems with it. I've cut oak, ash with no bog down at all. Good alround saw in it's class and price range. Having a relatively small shop, the Herculift is a definite plus.

Lou

James Carmichael
01-16-2007, 1:00 PM
I'm contemplating the Ridgid, too, if I can find room.

How's it for mounting a router table?

John Branam
01-16-2007, 1:31 PM
[quote=How's it for mounting a router table?[/quote]

This is not my saw but this is what used as the model for my router table

Art Mann
01-16-2007, 1:48 PM
I have had the 3650 for a year or so. During that time, I have done a lot of cutting on 4/4 and 5/4 walnut, cherry and white oak. The saw has met and in some ways exceeded my expectations. I use Freud thin kerf blades and the cutting speed is good but not great. The only real complaint I have is one you already mentioned. Dust collection is only fair and there is not an easy way to make it more effective.

Ben Roman
01-16-2007, 1:53 PM
If I had to do it over I would buy the TS3650 again. Good stout saw good price close by and resale is not bad on them when you are ready for the saw stop ! :) I plan on keeping mine when I finally get the saw stop someday !!

Ben

Hoa Dinh
01-16-2007, 3:05 PM
Charles,

I don't have experience with either one so I can't help much in specifics of the two. I just have some general comments.

Why do you limit yourself to those two? From what I've read, the Sears hybrid is a good saw too.


The motor sticking out of the back doesn't bother me and dust collection (I plan on having a port out of the bottom and it is going to be in the garage) doesn't bother me.

The motor sticking out of the back may not bother you, but only until you try to design an outfeed table (a must IMHO, by the way). You'll need to accomodate the motor.

No matter how you do it, dust collection of a contractor's saw with an open back will never be as good as the enclosed cabinet of a hybrid.

I know, I didn't make it any easier for you.

Bart Leetch
01-16-2007, 3:18 PM
This first part of this post has nothing to with the saw its self.

I have never understood why people want to mount their router table in a way that they feed the material like they do when running it through the saw. If you'll observe how shaper & jointers are used it is much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it. If need be put it in the left wing & stand at the end of the wing or toward the outside edge of the extension table & stand along the end of the table facing toward the end of the extension table.


As to the table-saw if you have the electric power 220 volt & can wait do wait for a cabinet saw & only buy once. In the mean time purchase a EZ Smart saw & router guide system or a Festool saw & router guide system. These systems work great especially if you have a small shop.


Think safety.

Hoa Dinh
01-16-2007, 3:43 PM
I think I'm going off-track now but I've been wondering about the same issue...


I have never understood why people want to mount their router table in a way that they feed the material like they do when running it through the saw. If you'll observe how shaper & jointers are used it is much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it. If need be put it in the left wing & stand at the end of the wing or toward the outside edge of the extension table & stand along the end of the table facing toward the end of the extension table.
In my case, the left wing of the TS is a sliding table. The RT can't go there.

My TS right side is butt against a wall. I can't stand there while operating the RT.

So now you understood?

Why is it "much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it"? It may be safer to stand along side the router table. But standing behind the router table is at least as safe as standing behind the TS.

It's funny, because my first RT came in the right wing of a TS setup I bought used, and I learned to operate it that way. Now even when I use my backup dedicated RT, I still stand behind, not along the side.

The first time when someone asked me, "Do you feel awkward operating the RT that way?" It took me a while to figure out what he was referring to. To me, standing behind the RT was very natural.

James Carmichael
01-16-2007, 3:55 PM
Why is it "much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it"?

That one has me stumped, too.

scott spencer
01-16-2007, 3:57 PM
Both capable saws but are in two different classes, contractor saw and hybrid. From a design perspective, a contractor saw has little advantage over the hybrid design. There's no reason to deal with the outboard motor issues unless you need to swap the motor frequently.

The Ridgid does have a built in mobile base, but you can put any saw on a mobile base. The fence on the Ridgid has a wider stock rip capacity, but the Grizzly fence is more rugged (a steel Biese clone), and can be slid to the right easily for more capacity. The motor on the Ridgid is no longer an Emerson...made in Asia.

The hybrid is more money but does offer a more modern design with the advantages associated with it...better DC, smaller footprint, shorter drive belt, more mass/stability. It basically offers many of the advantages of a cabinet saw.

I'm with Hoa...why narrow it to these two? Jet, Craftsman, GI, Delta, Sunhill, Bridgewood, Shop Fox are all strong contenders. You'll increase your odds of catching a great sale by expanding your list.

John Branam
01-16-2007, 4:14 PM
The dust collection on the ridgid is much better than most contractor saws. There is a shroud around the blade underneath the saw with a port that is set up for 4" hose or pipe, I also have a zero clearnce throat plate and I get minimal dust and chips when cutting.

Jack Ganssle
01-16-2007, 4:30 PM
The dust collection on the ridgid is much better than most contractor saws. There is a shroud around the blade underneath the saw with a port that is set up for 4" hose or pipe.

On my TS3650 it's 2.5", not 4", sized for a vacuum. The 12 gallon Rigid vacuum really sucks (in a good way).

Jack

Norm Roy
01-16-2007, 5:35 PM
Charles, I looked at a number of contractor type saws before getting the rigid. I am very pleased with the overall quality and performance. I swapped out the oem blade and have no problems with cut quality etc.
Love the wheels, working in a garage and after you read the instructions a couple of times, no problem with set up. Good value overall.

Homer Faucett
01-16-2007, 5:48 PM
If you're looking at the Ridgid, you may want to consider the Delta contractor saw at Lowes. Many of the same features as the Ridgid with a little beefier fence. With the T2 fence, it runs about $599. With an HD 10% off card (I understand that Lowe's honors competitor coupons), the price comes down somewhat.

I don't think you're going to have a problem with either of those saws bogging down. I cut plenty of oak and maple with my Delta contractor saw, and don't have any problem.

Jesse Thornton
01-16-2007, 6:13 PM
I've had the TS3650 for close to two years and it has served me well. I will eventually move up to a full cabinet saw, but my ideal saw wasn't anywhere close to being in the budget at the time, and the Ridgid (on sale for $200 off when I bought it) has proven to be an excellent value. I had to upgrade the blade (WWII TK - ohh yes what a difference) in order to rip through some 8/4 sugar maple without tripping the breaker every few feet, but I cut through plenty of 4/4 stock with the original blade without any significant problems. For me, I find it does bog down a little from time to time, even with everything aligned to within a few thousanths of an inch and outfitted with a good blade.
So, of course, when compared to a cabinet saw it has it's limitations, but I've yet to hear anyone complain about not getting their money's worth.

Karl Stewart
01-16-2007, 7:53 PM
I have the Rigid, put the RT in the wing, and installed two heavy duty folding brackets on each side to hold an extension wing. It all works well for me. I also made a jig to hold a dovetail on the opposite wing. It's two years old and is switchable to 220v. I've cut some serious maple, hickory and others with much success. I have made many jigs for different projects and just bought the grizzly tenon jig. I wonder how the fence could be better as some say; it seems fine but I've known nothing else.

I've made butcher block counter tops (48 x 48), bunk beds, wine racks, raised panels and many adk chairs.

As my father would say to me before I had a license to drive, 'You want a Porsche? Start with a Dodge. You'll appreciate it more when you get it.'

My two cents (from someone who owns a company that has equipment opportunities galore) is : What's the Return on Investment? In other words, what are you going to build now and 3 or 4 years from now? If cabinets and furniture are in your future, then get the best. If money is not an issue, then get the best. If not for either, then get the best you can afford...and read SMC daily for good tips!

Karl

john dennis
01-16-2007, 10:35 PM
I have the 3650 too. Great TS so far, but I've only had it a short time. However, this review is what helped me make my decision. This is not your ordinary review either. This fella put side stresses on the ripe guide to measure deflection and more. The pulley and belts are significant, etc. You really should read it.
Dennis

http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html (http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html)

Charles Wilson
01-27-2007, 5:37 PM
Sorry to take so long to respond but I have been REALLY busy.

Well, someone had questioned as to why I was only looking at these two saws. I have been looking primarily at these saws b/c I found found many favorable reviews (here and elsewhere). Secondly, with the Ridgid, people can buy me gift certificates to HD, I can use a 10% coupon, and I can finance it for 6 months interest free. Since it would be less expensive, I can buy other tools like Ridgid 6" jointer, a mortiser (for my wooden storm window project with floating mortise/tenon joints), DP, or a bandsaw.

I was interested in the Grizzly just b/c.

I have seen a contractor saw at Wilke Tools (?) which has also piqued my interest.

Regards,
Chuck

Joe Chritz
01-27-2007, 5:45 PM
I have the ridgid and mirror the other reviews on here.

Dust collection isn't bad with an hour or so work. I closed in the base and covered all I could of the back and it gets all the dust that goes down. With an overhead guard it would be very good indeed.

It isn't a cabinet saw but it is capable and produces good results for me.

Joe

john dennis
01-28-2007, 4:17 AM
Here’s a link to a review that sealed the deal for me to buy a 3650. And I’m still loving it. The price was $549. I had saved just about all I needed to buy it but something came along and my savings had to go. So I just went and put it on my HD credit card with interest free payments until 2008. It’ll be paid off long before that… I hope.
http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html (http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html)

Good luck!