Kim Bed construction

[Mark Singer]

I started the Kim bed yesterday ...The Sappelle is a very consistent wood planes nice. It looks like African Ribbon Mahogany , but has the stability of Honduras. So the large back is glued from 8/4 and the 3 rails are ripped and planned. The extension tables will probablly have a different wood on the drawer fronts....a chance to try the Blue Spruce chisels. I looked at Bocote and cocabola today....beautiful...I am just tired of working with stone:rolleyes:So I will find a wood and feature it. I only worked a couple of hours and managed to glue up the front leg stock.... This is a pretty easy project compared to the last one and the hardest part is the drawers...I have a couple of bed tutorials threads on SMC that you cross reference...

[Jim Becker]

What leg stock??? ;)

(And thanks in advance for introducing het another project and species to the mix!)

[Joe Unni]

...The Sappelle is a very consistent wood planes nice. It looks like African Ribbon Mahogany...

I've just finished a project (photos in the works ;) ) using sappelle and I will agree - it's very nice to work with. I did find however that anything ripped less than about 1 1/4" tended to curve (or not remain straight) as soon as it left the saw blade. It took several attempts at getting anything remotely usable in some 1" shelf banding. Any thoughts on this?

One of the things I really love is the way the lighter ribbons seem to take on an iridescent quality against the darker ones.

Looking forward to learning about the bed construction.

-joe

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I built a bedroom set from Sappelle. It consisted of headboard, nighstands, dresser, mirror and some artwork. The hardwood retailer I purchased the wood from also called it ribbon striped mahogany.

I finished bedroom set with a wipe on gloss poly called Formbys. I believe Minwax own Formbys now. It took about 6 coats because the build was so thin. The Sappelle looks great. I like the distinct metallic stripes that accentuate the contemporary style of my bedroom set. I did not use any pore filler for fear of altering this appearance.

I'll take some pictures of it. The original pics were lost when my harddrive crashed. The bedroom set is about 12 years old. I still have some material left but I'm not sure if it's enough for a future armoire/entertainment unit to accompany my bedroom. Sappelle is not doubt one of my most favorite wood species.

cheers, Jeff :)

[Mark Singer]

I cut the rails to size using my sled and a large clamp at the tablesaw...I mortised for the rail hardware using a template...squaring the corners with a chisel... The router is probably older than many of you..I bought it in 1973 to hang doors in a house I was building:rolleyes: The template is precise and fits th hardware well. The front legs were M&T to the front rail... I used a square to show how flat the back glued up...this saves a lot of time in finishing. I scrapped the joint with a paint scraper first to remove the glue. Then a Stanley #80 . A Jack plane brings it all flush and then a smoother to bring out the figure in the wood . Transfering the rail marks to the back insures that everything is square. It is going very smooth so far. This is an easy project ...there will be a couple of hand dovetailed drawers on the side extensions...

[Mark Singer]

more photos to try to explain from what I talk:confused:

[Mark Singer]

and for more pictures...come in:confused:

[Mark Singer]

pictures you say:D

[Dan Oliphant]

Mark, I really like how this piece is turning out. The Sappelle is amazing. Is Sappelle as stable as Mahogany, and as light weight?

[Kevin Murdock]

Hi Mark,

Great help as always explaining your methods.

One question I had was your experience with the rail hardware you're using.

I've looked at them before but was concerned that the main mechanical fastener is screws into the end grain. Having the plate mortised in helps a bit as well I would imagine. I was wondering how they would hold up over time.

Thanks,
Kevin

[Mark Singer]

Kevin,
You can use longer screws. The good mortising makes it much stronger since it has lateral support. If you want you can drill dowels in from the edges so the screws are grabing cross grain wood ...just glue the inserts in. I made a bed about 12 years ago and used the Euro KD fastners...which are not as strong and it is holding up really well...I saw it Friday!