Need opinion cutting aluminum

[Alan Berezin]

I had to make about 10 cuts in some Al draw pulls. It is a bit like cutting 1"x1" x 1/8" thick Al channel

Here is the question: I am using a 12" Chopmaster blade on my chop saw. I think it has about 0 degree rake. Anyway, you change blades to a cheapo blade to make the 10 cuts or just use a nice blade. I dont have a sense of how hard it is on the blade. I had heard that if one is cutting "a lot" of Al, it is best to have a special blade.

[Bruce Page]

Alan, a decent blade in a hacksaw would make short work of cutting those pieces.
Do you have the original blade for the miter saw?
If you have to use the Chopmaster, give it a squirt of WD-40 after each couple of cuts.

[Mike Cutler]

Alan.
I purchased my Dewalt mitersaw originally to cut the aluminum channel for a shower enclosure. I used the 80 tooth blade that came with the saw, and a backer board, and everything was fine.Some folks cut aluminum on their tablesaw, but I haven't nerved myself up enough for that. Plexiglas is enough for me.

Wear earplugs. It's really loud.

[patrick anderson]

and watch for flying chips!

[Mike Henderson]

I used to cut aluminum on a table saw with a carbide blade - no problem except the flying chips. I used wax as a lubricant on the blade. Just hold a block of paraffin against the turning blade before cutting the aluminum.

That blade was dedicated to cutting aluminum so I don't know how it would have done on wood after cutting the aluminum.

Mike

[Joe Trotter]

I have cut aluminum plenty of times on my Dewalt CMS. I use a 80 tooth Dewalt blade.

I find it easier than using my recip saw due to squareness of the cuts.

When I was a toolmaker we used carbide to cut all kinds of materials. The most impotant factors are RPM and rate of cut. Some form of coolant will make a difference as well.

Joe

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I'm with Joe.
Generally a non ferrous metal blade has a less edgy and more boxy grind on it. I prefer them for general wood working.

However 10 or 20 cuts won't trash a good carbide blade.
You may need a re-grind as it will likely take a little out of it but it should do just fine.

You will have chips how nasty little chips that will melt in to plastic parts and down your collar.

Lube is a good idea. I'd use 7-11 oil or any motor oil - really any oil at all even kero' (or wax as someone said) is good for alum. But lube is not an absolute requirement as you aren't cutting heavy stock. Apply oil with an acid brush during the cut.

[David G Baker]

I use a fine tooth blade on my band saw. It has worked great and no fear of flying chunks of aluminum. It is much safer in my opinion. Next choice is a hack saw, a little lubricant and a miter box. I cut a lot of aluminum by hand.
David B

[Matt Anfang]

I've done aluminum a few times in my miter saw. I've used 40 and 80 tooth blades and if you go slow, it doesn't make much difference. One thing I'd recommend is disconnecting the dust bag if you have it. The shavings are a pain to get out.

Matt

[Dino Makropoulos]

1. Lift your miter saw on one side.
(viabration can push-pull the cut-off piece back to the spinning blade)

2. Tape the aluminum to a piece of scrap wood. Scrap wood to be longer than the aluminum in order to act as a zero clearance insert.

3. Wait for the blade to stop. Lower the blade slower than cutting wood.

4. Good luck without safety glasses.

[Rick Lizek]

I cut a lot of non-ferrous metals on table saws and miter saws as a Mtetalsmith. The best blade is a negative hook which is designed for this and is the standard blade for a radial arm saw or scms. For 10 cuts I would use what's on the saw. The worst thing you can do is use a dull blade. Cutting aluminum won't damage a good blade at all. There is no risk of fire or sparks. The finish is much better on a chop saw or table saw than you could ever get with a recip saw, bandsaw or jigsaw.