Silly DC Q

[Chris Jenkins]

I know DC questions can create huge issues between members at times, so I fear asking this question, but am willing to risk it, as I hope it is just a simple answer.

I'm a big fan of 6" ducting and I really want a cyclone, but for know I will have to make due with a JET 1200 with 6" flex line.

My question is do I really need to cut a 6" hole in the back of my PM66 or will a 6" to 4" HVAC reducer work ok? (The reducer is the angled kind, not just the suddent step type)

I've only run the saw twice so far and it seemed to perform ok.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

[Jim O'Dell]

Most will tell you that reducing at the saw is fine. I'd personally want to have a true 6" pick up, but I'd also have a really hard time cutting into a perfectly good cabinet saw to do it!! I like the cab saws that have the dc hookup on a separate door, so you can make a new one for the 6", and keep the 4" to make the saw stock again. Not all are that way, though. If nothing else, try it, if it works fine for you, run it that way. If it doesn't do what you think it should, then modify. Jim.

[Paul Kinneberg]

I have a 5" to 4" seems to work good for me. Fyi saw is about 25' total pipe length from my 3hp Dust Gorilla.

[Jack Hogoboom]

I have the Jet DC1200 reducing from 6" to 4" at a plenum right before the table saw. It seems to pull the dust fine, although it would be nice if my Jet table saw had a cowl around the blade as some of the new higher end saws do. I leave plenty of chips in the cabinet.

FWIW, I just bought a 2 hp Dust Gorilla (stealth gloat:D ) and Oneida's website advises reducing down to 5" within 10 ft of the cyclone, which was a surprise to me. I had been running 6" pipe from my Jet, but apparently they think that 5" is the "swet spot" for small shops and "provide[s] the best compromise between airflow and efficiency."

Best,

Jack

[Brad Noble]

Hi Chris. WAIT! Cut a 6" hole in a perfectly good 66? You've lost yur mind my friend. Kidding aside, I run 4" out of my 66 thru an HVAC elbow and then step it up to 6". Works OK but the 66 is not the leader in the industry at dust collection. I wish they were. If they ever decide to make the dust shroud off the PM 2000 adaptable to the 66's then maybe.

Brad

[Charles McKinley]

I put a false floor of fiber glass sheeting in my pm66 on top of the base of the saw. The base ans cabinet form a ledge where they meet. I then cut the hole so I could glue the PVC fitting on to connect my flex hose. I used a jig saw to cut the hole. I'll post a pic tommorrow.

[Chris Jenkins]

I did some more cutting on the saw and I am still happy with the performance, though Charles I would like to see that picture of your rig, you've got me curious now. I'm thinking no cutting the cabinet for now, but I may in the future.

Brad,

As far as putting the 2000 DC shroud in the 66...

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I'm not saying this is a great idea. It is a pretty tight fit! I'd say you have one good chance at drilling your bearing arm. Quite the risk to drill it wrong or worse yet crack the casting. Not to mention the fit is REAL tight and if the shroud is misaligned the blade is going to saw into it. Who knows what will happen then, it may come loose and now you have a projectile in your 66 coming up at you are your work and that could mean you now have 9 fingers... I'd say it is safer to construct something with some HVAC boots. It may not be directly under the blade like the 2000, but it would be an improvement over the current 66 DC system.

I may try build something myself that will go around the Center trunnion (big box looking thing) in the future. Being that I just got the saw re-built and the table and top on, I don't think I want to take all apart again just yet.

[Brad Noble]

I did some more cutting on the saw and I am still happy with the performance, though Charles I would like to see that picture of your rig, you've got me curious now. I'm thinking no cutting the cabinet for now, but I may in the future.

Brad,

As far as putting the 2000 DC shroud in the 66...

I may try build something myself that will go around the Center trunnion (big box looking thing) in the future. Being that I just got the saw re-built and the table and top on, I don't think I want to take all apart again just yet.

Now thats a good idea. I don't want to try the shroud on my saw either. Not after I've seen one. I have thought about using one of those lathe DC shrouds, you know the one that looks like a square funnel. Perhaps suspending it from the bottom of the center trunnion? Making it pivot with the trunnion of course. At least it would 'direct' the DC efforts more toward the blade and act as a block for the chips/dust reaching the bottom of the cabinet.

Brad

[Charles McKinley]

Sorry I have been gone for a while. Here are the pictures. The first is the back of the saw with the fitting glued to it and the other is of the inside of the saw. I am lazy an do not always hook up the DC, that is the reason for the extra dust.

This saw is for sale over in the classified section.