Wood tapping and threading

[Jesse Thornton]

I'd like to get myself a kit for tapping and threading wood, and was wondering whether it to get something like this:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12361

...or whether there would be enough difference in speed and quality to spend a little extra on this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41791&cat=1,43000

Anyone have experience with either style?

[Joe Meazle]

I have the manual one. I got mine from Highland and it works plenty fast for me. I have made several projects with it and it has done fine. They are handy to have around for jig parts. I made a coping (for use with rail and stile cutters) sled for my router table using wooden screws for clamps to hold my backer board and my rail peice.

Joe

[Keith Outten]

I own the Beale threader, the first model he made so I have had it for a very long time. Threading with a router produces the best quality threads, buy the Beale threader you won't be disapointed.

.

[Gary Keedwell]

I own the Beale threader, the first model he made so I have had it for a very long time. Threading with a router produces the best quality threads, buy the Beale threader you won't be disapointed.

.:confused: As a machinist in my other life, I am curious: how do you thread with a router that is spinning at 10,000 RPM? I'm not trying to be sarcastic....just inquiring.

Gary K.

[Michael Gibbons]

:confused: As a machinist in my other life, I am curious: how do you thread with a router that is spinning at 10,000 RPM? I'm not trying to be sarcastic....just inquiring.

Gary K.

YEAH,..HOW?

[Ed Lang]

Like Keith, I bought the Beal a long time ago and love it. Buy that one!

The router mounts on top of the jig and the bit sticks down from the top and does the cutting while you turn the dowel. There are inserts for the exit end to cause the threads to keep the right TPI as the dowel moves thru the jig. If you turn slow or fast you get the same TPI. Of course there is a best speed for your wood and router but to get the perfect cut quality like anything else.

Mine is grey and has orange inserts. I bought my at a woodworking show in the 80's I think. At the Norfolk Scope down Keiths way if memory serves me right.

I have the wood taps as well and they work just like a metal cutting one.

I hope you enjoy them... they are fun.

[Jesse Thornton]

Joe - Any chance you can post pics of the jig(s) you made using the wooden screws/clamps?

Gary and Mike - Did you follow the LV link? There's a really clear illustration there of how the router is used to cut the threads.

Keith and Ed - Thanks for the comments. I'm definately leaning in the direction of the Beale, but I guess I wanted to see if anyone thought it was overkill.
The orginal idea for getting one of these kits came about as part of making a neat little shopbench for my 20 month old son (he adores tools and putting together/taking things apart), but since then I've pondered several possibilities for my own jigs and clamps. I also saw on another post recently a nice looking nutcracker using a big wooden bolt.
What are some of the interesting or unusual uses you've found for wooden screws? Pictures are, of course, strongly encouraged!

[Todd Tolhurst]

Think of the router like a toolpost grinder, and it'll make more sense.

[Larry Crim]

:confused: As a machinist in my other life, I am curious: how do you thread with a router that is spinning at 10,000 RPM? I'm not trying to be sarcastic....just inquiring.

Gary K.
from the LV web\

edit
Sorry had a pic attached but will not upload for some reason

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

:confused: As a machinist in my other life, I am curious: how do you thread with a router that is spinning at 10,000 RPM? I'm not trying to be sarcastic....just inquiring.

Gary K.


The lead gets captured in a pre-manufactured ID threaded piece and follows that. Then the router just cuts new threads as the rod rotated and pulled is pulled through.

It works exactly the same way you would if you were using change gears on a lathe except on the lathe the gears are doing to pulling the carriage through and the bit is stationary on the carriage.

In theory it might appear that might not need a router at all just a sharp thread cutter with the thread geometro on it. In theory but not in practice because to use a fixed bit you need to make many passes and the follower threads require the entire thread be formed brfore it enters the thredded channel.

The Beal really is a great gadget if you are not interested in Buttress threads.

I have almost purchased it several times. Each time I convince myself that I should be able to cobble together something just as good, maybe better. And each time I get distracted and never get around to trying.

[Gary Keedwell]

After I posted all I could think of was a lathe. I have single point threaded thousands of times (but not in the last 30 years, lol) Seems like alot of trouble for wood, though. Are you telling me that a die will not work for an external (male) thread?
I was wondering if you could get 2 dies....one roughing ( under-sized) and one finish? That way you would get a better finish?
Just my thoughts..........

Gary K.

[Dick Bringhurst]

I have the Beall and love it. The other one you showed has the disadvantage of getting dull and it is next to impossible to sharpen. Dick B.

[Doug Shepard]

Jesse
If you decide to go with the type that Hartville has, I've got two that I'd like to sell if you're interested. As far as I can tell these are the exact same ones that Hartville has. I've never used them but picked them up at a moving sale several years ago and I'm not sure the original owner used them either. The one I just opened up and looked at looks brand new. I figure if I haven't used it yet, it's probably not something I need to keep storing. I've got the 1/2" and the 3/4". You can have both for $35 plus whatever the postage or UPS is if you're interested.

[Keith Outten]

Here is a picture of a few bolts and a wooden wrench I made. I have used wooden bolts and nuts on a few projects in the past. I built a wooden hay wagon years ago that had threaded axles and nuts plus many of the steering pieces were threaded as well. I can't find a picture of the hat wagon right now, it must be on another machine but it was a scale model made to fit the standard size child's rocking horse.

You would be surprised how many people will buy a 3/4" bolt and nut just to put it on their desk :) I have also laser engraved the bolt heads a few times.

.

[Gary Keedwell]

I have the Beall and love it. The other one you showed has the disadvantage of getting dull and it is next to impossible to sharpen. Dick B.
They have been using dies on steel for a hundred years....don't think wood will dull it that fast.:o

Gary K.

[Doug Mason]

I read a FWW (an issue from the mid-eighties) article on how to make a tap and die for wood--and for whatever size you choose! See if you can't find the article instead of spending yet more $$$ for another jig (and learn something to boot)! I have recently thought of digging up that article and making one myself.

[Bob Smalser]

Beall Wood Threader. Had one since 1983 or so. Works like a charm. Fast.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/76568184.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/76568211.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/76568219.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/75121185.jpg

http://www.bealltool.com/