What kid of wood for cuttiing board?

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I'm making some cuttingboards for Christmas and wonder if there are any woods I should avoid because of possible ill effects. I saw David Marks make a kitchen island with a cutting board top out of walnut and purple heart. Are these woods okay?

[Ted Shrader]

Dennis -

This has been discussed several times and there are varieties of opinions. Recommend you do a <a href="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/search.php?"> search</a> on the subject to get full details.

I have used both walnut and purple heart, but as decorative pieces - stripes, borders, handle, etc. Generally make the main field made out of maple - very durable.

Ted

[Cliff Newton]

Whatever you do, don't use MDF. I learned the hard way.

[Ken Salisbury]

Whatever you do, don't use MDF. I learned the hard way.

Welcome Cliff -- Please read the following thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?threadid=4937

[Todd Burch]

Cliff - did you learn the hard way when you opened the dishwasher the next morning, or was the sawdust and formadehyde that got stuck between your teeth? :D :D

Dennis, beech has been a very popular wood for cutting boards - they last forever, as would maple and birch. Birch is used for quality toothpicks because it imparts no flavor. Popsicle sticks are birch. If I were making a cutting board, it would be one of these 3 woods. quartersawn beech is nice, and everyone knows how fine figured maple can be.

Todd.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Todd, I went to the wood supplier today and picked up some 8/4 maple and 4/4 padouk, and purpleheart. I want to make the cutting surface end grain instead of long grain so I'm thinking I need to make it 1 1/2 to 2" thick to maintain stability. Does this sound about right?

[Todd Burch]

Dennis, a 1½" to 2" thick end-grain cutting board of those woods would be a very nice cutting that would last for years and years. Looking forward to seeing the pictures!

What glue you gonna use?

[EliotMason]

Last Year I made some butcher block style boards and some standard flat breadboards. I used mostly hard maple, but used black walnut and cherry as accents or borders. 1.5" thick is plenty! Remember, the wife wants to pick it up and move it too! Used Elmer's Glue-All - this was recommended as it has more flex than standard wood glue and can deal with the humidity related size shifts more effectively.

The wood issue isn't just hardness - it's also porosity. Same told me I shouldn't use walnut because the grain is too open - especially the end grain. I've found that so long as I am patient and apply enough oil and beeswax that the pores are filled with oil, not food. You'll just need to reapply the oil more frequently than with a solid birch or maple cutting block.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Todd,

I have some Gorilla glue left over from another project and I plan to use it until I run out, then I have a new bottle of Tightbond polyurathane glue for the rest of the boards. It started out as making a couple cutting boards for Katherine and some friends, now its grown to nine and counting. Apparently "we're" going to put cheese and sausge on the boards and give them to friends this Christmas!

Eliot,

You know, I didn't even think about the open grain of Walnut being a problem, but its nice to know I can seal it properly.

[Mike Kelly]

Just want to remind everyone that Mesquite is the most stable wood in the world. It is also very good looking especially in cutting boards. I saw some at a show here in Austin yesterday and they were striking in appearance. Walnut seems to cut or leave very small pieces which are dark in color when I am making salads. Maple probably does too, but I can't see it as well.