Ideas on finishing techniques.

[Bill Wyko]

Now that I cant seem to turn off the lathe:D I'd like to know how to get the ultimate finsh. Gloss, satin, natural or anything else you might have to offer.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Bill Wyko]

Ok I'll go first:rolleyes: I've been using deft gloss coat. I do 3 to 4 coats then I use 0000 steel wool (by hand) Then I use minwax pastewax. It makes a nice satin finsh and feels very soft.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill...........Finishing is to me the most difficult part of turning...blow it and everything before it looks bad too....

1. Most beginners start out using friction finishes like Mylands....It's a combination of shellac and waxes....there's many brands out there and they do a good job on things that won't be handled.

2. Shellac....I like it....I've been using Zinsser's Seal Coat....dewaxed...goes on like friction finish....then I can put anything over it..

3. Deft brushing lacquer.......I've been using it.....the only thing I can spray is the person next to me when I sneeze.....I've tried spraying....I'm a total klutz at it. I friction on brushing lacquer.

4. Danish oil...........soak on ...slop on......keep it wet for 30 minutes....wipe off excess.......let dry overnight.....

5. The one thing I use with all of them is the Beal buffing system. It enhances any finish I've used so far and it will do a good job on it's own for a totally natural finish.

6. If I want to add contrast to highlight between the different colors of grain I will friction a very light coat of BLO. By frictioning in with a paper towel...the heat causes the BLO to cure in a matter of a few minutes. Then I will follow it with a coat or two of Zinsser's dewaxed shellac..Then I can buff it or add Deft...or anything other finish I want over the dewaxed shellac.......

There are a lot of finishing combinations....everyone has a favorite that works for them.....It took me 6 months to get a way from finishing with Mylands friction polish.....now...I have a quart bottle of same...unopened...but it's there if I need it......

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Ken, I appreciate it. I'd like to try a variety of finshes just for the experience if anything else. I heard of something called a "french rub" is that the same thing as what you described?

[George Tokarev]

Thanks Ken, I appreciate it. I'd like to try a variety of finshes just for the experience if anything else. I heard of something called a "french rub" is that the same thing as what you described?

Dual citizenship. French Polish. Great method for "lookers," because it tolerates handling well. Not much of a finish for users, because shellac and alkalai don't get along, nor does shellac and alcohol. Limits your choice of detergent and aerosols. Mindless low odor activity to do any time, any place, and the only dust that gets to it is what you bring, because the shine of a thousand coats dries almost before the cloth passes.

Google and follow, or check out FWW index. I don't fill with pumice, so my basic "rubber" is folded muslin. I use a non-curing non-amber oil like grapeseed, because it suits my technique better in viscosity than mineral or linseed. If I'm using tinted shellac rather than blonde, olive oil is good.

[Jim Ketron]

Well I think the finish starts with a properly sanded piece, If this step is not achieved no finish will look good IMO!

My favorites in no particular order are:
Antique oil (Minwax brand)
Gel Poly (Rocklers Brand)
Watco Natural Danish Oil
and last a good buff with the Beall Buffing System.

[Bill Wyko]

Well I think the finish starts with a properly sanded piece, If this step is not achieved no finish will look good IMO!

My favorites in no particular order are:
Antique oil (Minwax brand)
Gel Poly (Rocklers Brand)
Watco (natural)
and last a good buff with the Beall Buffing System.
Here's another one of those dumb questions. What's a beal buffing system?:confused:

[Jim Ketron]

Here's another one of those dumb questions. What's a beal buffing system?:confused:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=2036

I also use the 4" bowl buffs.

I prefer the system thats used off the lathe!
here is my Homemade buffing station. I used an old 1075 rpm blower motor and made the stand from steel pipe and an old milk crate to hold my supplies.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/Jim_k/woodworking035.jpg

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jim....when you say Watco.....do you mean the Watco Natural wax finish or the Danish oil......?

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Antique Oil finish, Watco Danish Oil (Natural), Waterlox, Lacquer and I like to mix 1:1 BLO and Wipe on Poly. That makes a good finish and I like it.

[John Hart]

I like spray Lacquer..(hic):o ..for many reasons. But I've sprayed so much lacquer that I've forgotten all the reasons. But I really enjoy it!!:)

Usually I'll lay in a base of shellac...the clear stuff...then finish off with the lacquer. I started out with high gloss, but now I'm settling in with Krylon Satin Spray. I think it smells like bubble gum...but everyone else thinks it smells like insecticide. They're wrong of course.:p I let the lacquer cure a bit...rub up with 0000 steel wool...cure a bit....buff with white diamond. I use the same buffing set up that Jim Ketron displayed...except my setup isn't as neat.;)

[Jim Ketron]

Jim....when you say Watco.....do you mean the Watco Natural wax finish or the Danish oil......?
Oops:o I use Watco Natural Danish oil
Thanks Ken I fixed it