Show me your TS mounted router table fences

[Matt Meiser]

I'm finally getting around to installing my router in my TS extension table, so next I'll need to build a fence. I'm not sure if I'd be better off building something that clamps to my Bies. fence or something separate that would be attached to t-track or ???. Previously I had a dedicated router table with a Rockler top and fence that was decent. I liked the fact that I could loosen one end to make slight adjustments. I didn't like that stuff got down into the slots where the fence mounted. If I clamp something to the TS fence, I'm wondering if I will get good enough fine adjustment?

[Hoa Dinh]

I had a RT fence that used the Unifence head, similar to the Might-T-Track concept. To go back and forth between TS and RT operations, I just swapped the fences. That required careful work flow planning to minimize the interference between the TS and the RT operations.

As disorganized as I am, that didn't work out well. I got tired of it and bought a dedicated fence for the RT.

The photos are here (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322157837).

You can see the old fence in this photo (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322157904/photo/294928803247606924/3), hanging on the side of the TS cabinet. Now I use it when I need a sacrificial fence for the TS.

[glenn bradley]

You've had the Rockler so you are familiar with it. I decided to stay with mine after looking at options. I don't have trouble with the slots getting clogged as I left the area under them open. I also added holes at the rear of the slots so I could install and remove the fence from above the table. Another deciding factor for me was that it is so easy to make auxiliary fence faces for. I have some that are extra thick for raised panel bits and some that are extra tall for vertical routing.

If you have a t-slot bit and some scrap MDF, whipping up a quick sacrificial fence for a specific purpose is a no-brainer. I also built a little micro adjust do-jobber that I use when sneaking up on something that requires more accuracy than just the ole thumb nudge:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=39333

I have since, shortened the length of the screw as I only use it for very small adjustments. Again this goes in from the top of the table via the drop-in holes I added. You can just see one peeking out from under the jig-block in the second photo. Just food for thought.

P.s. This shot shows the drop-in holes better and some of the fence faces, etc.

[Chris Rosenberger]

Matt attached are some pictures of my job site saw. The fence is a Jointech & it is attached to a piece of 3/4 plywood.

[Pete Brown]

I have the full Incra TS-LS.

If I had the room, I would have a separate router table instead of one built into the extension wing. I never seem able to plan my work well enough to be able to finish all my routing before having to hit the saw again, or vv, so I find myself having to break down setups more often than I would want.

The router tables (there are two on the saw) and the lifts are from Woodpeckers.

My shop is so small that I cut a hole in the wall to allow the arm on the Incra to extend out to full rip capacty :D

I can't find any recent photos. I'll take a shot this weekend and post to this thread.

Pete

[Roy Bennett]

Pics of my shop made router table added to the right end of a TS3650

[Matt Meiser]

Roy, what is the bench-like thing that sticks up? I assume your fence attaches to the TS fence?

[scott spencer]

The TS fence is only used as a general alignment support, the handscrews make it optional. I always planned to add something elegant for DC, but my floorsweep attachment fits and works really well, so I haven't bothered...plus the under table DC helps too.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/NRT3.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/bfa789a2.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/1b84239e.jpg

[Jeremy Gibson]

Matt,

You may remember this post a while back:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28574

I made it with out of MDF scrap and some melamine split faces. I just clamp it to the table saw fence. I haven't used it too much, but the little use it has seen it performed better than I expected. I think the split fence is the best design, plus some extra fences for tall work or a single fence for a zero clearance fence.

[Matt Meiser]

You may remember this post a while back:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28574

I'd forgotten about it. Thanks for reminding me. I think I'll probably just go with something like that. I got to thinking that you could probably make really small adjustments by loosening the clamps that hold it to the TS fence and inserting a cardstock shim or two.

[Frankie Hunt]

I used a shop made router fence that was attached to my tablesaw fence for a long time. I didnt like that arrangement because it tied up my tablesaw. It was too heavy. I was attaching and removing the fence too often. Also it was harder to "tweak" for fine adjustments than I wanted. I ended up getting the router fence from Bench Dog and I really like it. It locks down tight. It is lightweight and easy to install/move/adjust. It has a track for hold downs. It is fully adjustable for the width of different bits. It can be set up with one side of the fence out for built in jointing capability, although I have never used that feature. Dust collection is good also. I would highly recommend the Bench Dog ProFence.