hollowing gloat

[Mike Vickery]

All right their was a lot of hollowing gloats so I thought I would get my Frankenstien system in.
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I did not have money for a full system so this is what I came up with. I bought the Jameison D handle and made a homemade backrest out of shop scraps following the dimensions that he lists for making your own. I bought some 1/4 hss bits and a 3/4 inch steel rod from enco and made my own 16 inch straight hollowing tool. Enco also sell double ended boring bars for metal work for $8 so I got a 12 inch boring bar from them that holds a 1/4 bit at a 45 on one side and a 90 on the other. The laser system is made from various plumbing parts with a laser pointer from an office supply store.
This set up was just tested for the first time on a little piece of Carob that I had. It is now in the bag for drying. The double ended boring bar worked fine for a piece this size but if I want to go much wider I will probably have to get a swan neck tool. I have enough left over steel rod so I will try to make it myself. The laser system works but is a pain to adjust so I may redesign it later, but for now I am hollowing and happy.

[John Hart]

I like it Mike. It's a thing of beauty. How do the wooden parts work out for you? Do you get any bounce when you rotate the D-handle all the way to the right?

[Travis Stinson]

Nice setup Mike. The 3 piece set of curved cutters from Packard would be a good addition, they work great.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=102706&Category_Code=tools-borbrctrs-bent

A tip for your rear rest- rout a groove and epoxy a 1/4" steel rod in the bottom piece to lessen the surface area contact for the D handle to ride on, makes the movement much smoother.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c213/tstin27/1234/DSC03427.jpg

[Jim Dunn]

Ok I gotta ask. Just where do you stand to operate such a contraption? I also appreciate the talent to copy a tool of any kind, real nice Mike.

[Kevin McPeek]

Frankenhollower or not, it works! Not too mention you don't have a huge investment in it if you decide hollowing is not the route you want to go.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice system Mike! I give you credit for figuring out what you wanted and then building it - that just has to be satisfying! Good job!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nice system Mike! Well done!

[Jim Becker]

Nice job, Mike. Your rear support is similar to mine...I built it from the suggestions that Lyle included with the Jamison system.

[Dario Octaviano]

Impressive setup Mike!

I like it!:)

[Mike Vickery]

Thanks everyone!
John - The backrest seems pretty stable it is all 1 inch maple. However the piece on the lathe is the only one I have done with it and it is pretty small. If I had the extra money I probably would have sprung with the metal one but this was all my christmas money could afford.
Travis - thanks for the link to the curved cutters I had not seen them before.
Jim Dunn - you actually stand in your normal turning spot the backrest only comes of the lathe on the turning side about 9 inches from your lathes center line. Pic one is a bad angle so it seems like more you get a better idea on the fourth picture of the backrest.

[Keith Burns]

Mike, great job !! I did as Travis suggested, embedding the rod on the top and bottom so the handle slides easy. I've started using mine for HF's of course but also on bowls. Just seems to be a lot less muscle strain plus you have more control.

[Dario Octaviano]

Mike,

Thanks for the tip about double end boring bar from ENCO. Didn't know they had those when I bought some replacement tips. Time to order again :D

[Mike Vickery]

Mike,

Thanks for the tip about double end boring bar from ENCO. Didn't know they had those when I bought some replacement tips. Time to order again :D

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=378-4014&PMPXNO=2889271&PARTPG=INLMK32

Their is the link I am actually pretty suprised I had never heard anyone mention it before.

[Dick Strauss]

Mike,
Another option for reducing friction on the bottom of the back toolrest is to round it over or use a high density plastic (UHMW) strip over flat wood. I would think that either a wood surface or plastic surface would be much more quiet (metal toolrest surfaces can be quite noisy).

Looking good!

[Jim Ketron]

Nice set up!
Nothing like making your own tools, and the satisfaction of making beautiful things with it!