My Third Dovetail Jig

[Robert Strasser]

The March issue of Wood Magazine has a review of Through Dovetail Jigs. They like them all of course. They say they are idiot proof. That last statement is bogus. A hammer is not idiot proof. Anyway, I just bought my third dovetail jig and I would like to give my 2 cents worth.

My first jig was the Leigh. It worked great and was easy to use. Those who say it is not easy to use must not have seen the Leigh manual. It is the best manual I've ever seen for anything I've ever bought. If you can't read, the pictures are great. But I've given the Leigh away because it didn't do what I wanted it to do. That's right, the most highly rated and most flexible jig didn't do what I wanted it to do. I wanted a jig that supported the router and workpiece really well, controlled the dust, and not use bushings. I never liked running my router over those fingers without tipping. And I ate a bunch of sawdust which does bad things to my nose.

My next jig is the Akeda. It really is easy to use, supports the router extremely well, and the dust is controlled. You can leave the router on the jig hands off. However it still uses bushings. The claims that the Akeda does not require any adjustments are bogus. Why do they sell the over and under-sized straight cutters and bushings? The Akeda uses different size dovetail cutters depending on the wood thickness. I've found some of the Akeda cutters work better than others for getting a good fit. In fact, two of the dovetail cutters don't work at all for me. I've also bought the Whiteside bits for the Akeda. They are much better bits. I am satisfied with the Akeda and will keep it. It does half blind joints much easier than the Leigh. It is not as flexible or adjustable as the Leigh, but you can vary the pin spacing in increments of 1/8 inch. Actually, I like the fixed 1/8 inch spacing better than the variable spacing. It is easier to remake a part in the future because you can set up the jig exactly like it was when you first made it.

This week I purchased my third dovetail jig... a Keller 1500. The Keller has fixed 1 1/8 inch pin settings so you have to design your project around that. The Keller uses a bearing on the cutter so no bushings. You can also turn the Keller upside down and use it on a router table. This is the way I'll be using it because it gives me the ultimate control of the workpiece and router while eliminating all the dust. But I would not keep the Keller without modifying it. I modified the Keller by installing a T-Track in the bottom of it. This allows me to place an edge stop to position the workpiece. But due to the layout of the Keller template, the edge stop has to be offset for the pin workpiece. The offset is 9/16 inch which is half the pin center to center distance. The alternative is to mark the pin placement on the workpiece after cutting the tails and then visually place the pin workpiece on the template. Too much chance for errors and inconsistent results. I'm pretty fussy about getting consistent results from my tools and jigs. That's why I only buy Craftsman contractor table saws. Just a little joke there. Finally, the manual is not that great. It's a good thing the jig is so easy to use. The manual says the jig template is 1/2 inch thick, but it is really 17/32 inch thick.


There is no best dovetail jig. But I got what works for me.

[Peter Pedisich]

Robert,

Thank you, that was very helpful to me as I'm considering the upcoming Akeda 24" jig, but have always liked the Keller/Gifkin/Katie type for the router table.

Your likes and dislikes for these jigs is the same as mine.

Pete

[Richard Keller]

Have had the Leigh D4 for some years, and I can't dispute what your saying. I would still buy it over anything else. Looked at the Akeda, and was VERY un-impressed. Looks dandy, but joints slop like a toothpick in a barn door. I saw it at a WW show, and a guy from the factory was demo-ing it. He couldn't make his joints tight - what hope did I have?

The biggest thing with the Leigh is to have the right router. Plunge routers are out - it needs to be light. Small 2 HP fixed base is perfect. But don't go cheap (DeWalt) I tried this - my DW610 (real metal, US made) is fine, but the new Chinese DW616 sucks! The bit can not possibly be centered in the guide (Critical) Makita RF1101 or Bosch 1617 (without hoaky quick change guide) is good.

As for the sawdust, I've gotten my share. I've never tried the vaccum attachment to see if it works. I have sawdust everywhere anyways.

The Keller looks good though (No relation) The idea of working upside down on a router table is appealing, but I can't see being without variable pin spacing.

Richard.

[Bob Wingard]

If you had kept the Leigh, you could have used it as a template to make your own templates that would, for all practical purposes have been identical to the Keller. Set up the Leigh .. use a pattern-cutting bit to follow the fingers .. the results should be a blank that can be used just like a Keller. I've never done this, but I discussed the possibility with Mark Hensley who used to do the shows for Leigh, and he thought it was a perfectly sound idea. Maybe someday I'll get around to trying it out. For now, it's just a thought .. and thinking never was my strong suit, so feel free to pick the idea apart .. .. ..

[John Gornall]

I've started working an idea for my Leigh Jig. I clamped a piece of 1/4 inch hardboard to the front clamp bar. The top edge of this is aligned with the top of the guide fingers. It supports the router base on the operator side of the bit and stops the sawdust from being thrown at the operator. The basic idea seems to work - just need to make it a bit more convenient to adjust and add a hose to the dust collector.

[Jim Becker]

I use the dust collection adaper from Leigh and don't really have much problem with the chips hitting me like they do without it. My Festool hose fits it perfectly and I've been able to use it with a PC, Dewalt and Festool router.

[Al Navas]

...I wanted a jig that supported the router and workpiece really well, controlled the dust, and not use bushings. I never liked running my router over those fingers without tipping. And I ate a bunch of sawdust which does bad things to my nose...
Robert,

I am curious about the tipping problems you mention. I have a Leigh D4 - it would be very hard to give it up for something else.

Which router(s) did you use on the Leigh? I use various on a D4, including an inexpensive Firestorm FS1200RP plunge router (my back-up), to the DW618 fixed base, to the really hefty DW625 plunge machine, which I prefer to use on the D4.

I am probably wrong, of course, but it seems to me that all horizontal dovetail jigs will tend to make the routers a little tipsy, due to their narrow finger arrangement. As a result, they require the utmost concentration from the operator. When this did not happen, for example, I managed to kiss one of the fingers with the router bit, without serious consequences :eek: - and the carbide survived OK. And I have never used a jig that allowed use of bearings in place of guide bushings.

I would like to read some additional details, so that I can learn.

And I second Jim's suggestion to get the vacuum accessory - it IS hard to beat.

Thanks!


.

[Jim Becker]

A smaller fixed base router is also more stable for dovetail work, no matter what brand jig, in most cases. Plungers are top-heavy and tend to exacerbate the instability issue.

[Tim Malyszko]

Looked at the Akeda, and was VERY un-impressed. Looks dandy, but joints slop like a toothpick in a barn door. I saw it at a WW show, and a guy from the factory was demo-ing it. He couldn't make his joints tight - what hope did I have?


I purchased the Akeda last weekend and used it to make some half blind dovetails to trim out my new workbench. Outside of that, I've just played around with it making dovetail joints on scraps and have yet to experience any problem with looseness. I'm using a Dewalt DW618 fixed base router with a 7/16" brass bushing and followed the Akeda manual to a tee.

I like this jig so much, that I'm redoing a couple of my project designs just so I can add dovetails.

[Robert Strasser]

[quote=Al Navas]Robert,

I am curious about the tipping problems you mention. I have a Leigh D4 - it would be very hard to give it up for something else.

Which router(s) did you use on the Leigh? I use various on a D4, including an inexpensive Firestorm FS1200RP plunge router (my back-up), to the DW618 fixed base, to the really hefty DW625 plunge machine, which I prefer to use on the D4.
Al,

I use Porter Cable 690 series for dovetail work. I also put on clear bases that I purchased from Pat Warner. The clear bases help visibility.

Now as far as tipping: I found it is just a little harder than doing any edge-type routing. Especially when doing half blind dovetails. You just have to be careful. One solution is to get an offset router base. Pat Warner also sells these. http://patwarner.com/offset_subbase.html



And I second Jim's suggestion to get the vacuum accessory - it IS hard to beat.

Thanks!

I also had the Leigh dust collection device which works rather well even though it does get in the way a little. However, it does not suck up the fine dust. I had to wear a dust mask or I would have some alergy problems.

Anyway, I'm happy with my choices. And the High School fine woodworking department is very happy with my Leigh Jig.

[Al Navas]

Great, Robert! Thanks - I understand better now.


.

[Steven Bolton]

After reading the various posts about the Keller, it seems like they are all positive and the main comment on the Keller is ease of use. It seems reasonable, but I understand it only does fixed full dovetails.

I am hoping I can find out where you can get this track at and if the "stop" that is shown will hold both boards at a perfect 90 degree angle.

Beginner's questions I know.

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

They say they are idiot proof

I always preferred the phrase "Idiot resistant". In my experience, idiots can actually be quite clever...

[Matthew Voss]

...but I can't see being without variable pin spacing.




You can skip spaces or shift the template between cuts for variable spacing in any width or length of stock, or change the router bit size.

[John Gornall]

There is a new version of dust collection for the Leigh Jigs called the VRS which has a full width support platform for the router as well as a follower dust collection system. It works great.

[Vince Shriver]

I purchased the Akeda last weekend and used it to make some half blind dovetails to trim out my new workbench. Outside of that, I've just played around with it making dovetail joints on scraps and have yet to experience any problem with looseness. I'm using a Dewalt DW618 fixed base router with a 7/16" brass bushing and followed the Akeda manual to a tee.

I like this jig so much, that I'm redoing a couple of my project designs just so I can add dovetails.

Tim, What make router bit are you using. I understand that with the Akeda the particular brand of bit makes a difference. Thanks, Vince

[John Thompson]

I purchased a Keller 5-6 years ago and used it twice. It is really a simple jig.. not that expensive and did a great job until I sold it shortly after. Very good but I just decided I don't like machine cut dove-tails and it robbed me of the challenge of cutting by hand as I had been doing the previous 30 years or so before the purchase.

BTW.. the gentlemen I sold it too absolutely loves it.

Sarge..

[Jim Eller]

I have researched this subject for a month and after reading review after review with the same basic conclusion, I ordered the Akeda DC24 with C-kit. I could only find one(1) major negative review of the Akeda. After reading that whole review I believe there was another issue involved, but everyone is entitled to their opinion.

It should be here tomorrow and I will then give my own opinion.

As far as bits are concerned, I believe the Whiteside bits have a 1/4" shank vs. the 8mm shank of the Akeda. Now we can get into the breakage and vibration debate.

Thanks,
Jim

[Steven Bolton]

I have read nothing but good reports on the Akeda.

I thought with the Keller I would get simplicity. I do wonder how hard it would be to vary the spacing and cut every other pin and tail.

Good luck with the Akeda.

Steve Bolton

[J. Z. Guest]

Robert, that stop block setup, is that how you ensure that the pin & tail piece end up perfectly aligned? I wonder if I could do that on my MLCS jig...

I have the cheaper MLCS version of the Keller jig.

The only thing I miss about the Keller is the bearing-guided bit. It makes me wonder why it is taking everyone so long to realize that this is indeed far superior to bushings and having to make sure they're centered.

[Robert Strasser]

Jeremy is correct. The stop block is for aligning the pins and tails.

As far as keeping the wood vertical, the wood rests on the template and that pretty much keeps it straight. Just clamp it tight.

The track is the standard 3/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep track. Rockler is one place that has it.

[Ray Schafer]

Jeremy,

If you look at this video, he shows how to add t-track and lock downs to the MLCS. Looks pretty cool.

How do you like the MLCS dovetail jig? I am thinking about getting one?

[Gene E Miller]

Greetings & Salutations,

Just thought I would put in my .02 worth.

I have an Akeda that I was lucky enough to get on ebay that
was used like one time for$150 bucks with the complete
accessory kits of extra pin and tail pieces as well as the dust
collection kit and 2 sets of router bits.

I have used it to build 3 solid cherry cedar chest that had the
main box dovetailed together as well as 3 drawers in the chest
that were all made with thru dovetails.

I made some riser blocks to raise the jig up on my bench so that
I can sit on a stool and look directly into the jig and see
what I am cutting. With the dust collection I have very little
trouble with flying debris. It all gets sucked up as fast as
it gets made.

I only wish I could find as good a deal on the new longer
version that Akeda now has as I did on the one I now have.

I found the manual was very easy to follow as this was the
very first time I had ever used a dovetail jig or even cut
dovetails and I was able to get excellent fits the first time
out.

I made one sample of tails and pins on some scrap and then
went right to the main case of the cedar chest that I made
which was 5/4 cherry. The depth of the main box was 14"
and I did not ruin a single piece. :D

When I first made my samples I had some issues with
cutting on the right and left sides of the jig and which
face of the work piece to put out. I called customer
service at Akeda and got excellent help from their people.

I would highly recommend this jig to anyone especially if
you don't have any expierence cutting dovetails at all as
I did when I first got mine. I now look for ways to incorporate
dovetails in my work.

Thanks for listening.

Gene

[Chip Lindley]

I must 2nd Richard's thoughts on the Leigh D4 (or any dovetail jig) using smaller routers. Larger is not better, and No plungers! I have used two dedicated routers with my D4 for lots of years. An old Black & Decker Professional 1-1/2hp (later DeWalt) for the straight bit. A P-C 690 for the Dovetail bit. They both remain set up with guide bushings and adjusted to exact depth of cut. I love the versatility of the Leigh. My very first 3/4" blanket chest dovetails were perfect wayy back when!

[Paul Johnstone]

Robert, thanks for the tip. I have a Keller jig that I have not tried out yet, but I will definitely add your enhancement.

[Sean Rainaldi]

I must 2nd Richard's thoughts on the Leigh D4 (or any dovetail jig) using smaller routers. Larger is not better, and No plungers!...

Does the "No plungers" assertion include the Festool OF 1400? That's the router that I have, and hope to use it on either the Akeda 24" or Leigh D4R- have not decided on which jig yet...