Am I getting blade burn

[Ken Wright]

on Bubinga because I'm moving the wood too fast or too slow.

Its such a hassle to clean up!!! Any ideas??

[Todd Burch]

Is the wood burning when ripping or cross cutting - and how many teeth you using? I can't imagine wood burning because you are moving it too fast.

For blade height, if ripping, make sure the entire gullet comes out of the wood to clear the chips. Is it burning on both sides or just one?

[Ken Wright]

and thanks!!

I'm cutting the top off of some dove tailed boxes that I've made for Christmas Gifts .. so I'm ripping on one side and cross cutting the other to be tech I guess....... I get the burn on all 4 cuts ... I had the blade raised high enough to clear the cut by about 3/16".

Its burning on the lid side of the cut on all 4 cuts.





Is the wood burning when ripping or cross cutting - and how many teeth you using? I can't imagine wood burning because you are moving it too fast.

For blade height, if ripping, make sure the entire gullet comes out of the wood to clear the chips. Is it burning on both sides or just one?

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Ken, my woodworker II burns if I cut too slow.

[Gene Collison]

on Bubinga because I'm moving the wood too fast or too slow.

Its such a hassle to clean up!!! Any ideas??

Seems like it could be saw alignment on the rip unless you have too many teeth on the blade. On the cross cut it may be the blade again. On the rip. I toe my fence out about .005 so the rear of the blade doesn't strike the workpiece a second time. You might try raising the blade so the teeth are an inch above. Some blades also have a tendency to burn, some woods too, I never cut bubinga.

Gene

[Allan Johanson]

Is your blade perfectly clean? I was getting some burning on maple with a WW II and then I cleaned the blade. Poof! The burning was completely gone.

Good luck!

Allan

[Todd Burch]

Still don't know how many teeth or tye of blade you are using, but I'm leaning towards the moving too slow camp. I've cut lids off of boxes several times, and the tendency for me is to go slow so I don't screw up the box I've invested so much time in.

Does the bubinga burn with a regular board rip?

BTW, a sharp cabinet scraper does wonders for all kinds of ailments like this.

[Todd Burch]

Also, unless you have a cross-grain glue up on your box, you should be ripping all 4 sides.

[Ken Wright]

and you're right Todd .. I am ripping all 4 sides ... and I think I figured out why I'm getting the burn .... using a Freud 60 tooth if I remember correctly .......

Think the burn is coming from the way I'm handling the wood ... I use a pencil to force the box to stay square against the fence .. I'm probably pushing too hard against the lid side with the pencil and its burning the wood .. otherwise I'd probably be getting burn on both sides of the cut.

I Had to stay up all night to figure that one out??????





Also, unless you have a cross-grain glue up on your box, you should be ripping all 4 sides.

[Todd Burch]

Hey Ken - good for you for thinking it through. BTW, 60 teeth is too many teeth for ripping. Todd.

[Ken Wright]

is too much and thanks for reminding me of that .. If I remember correctly s/b a 45?? I need a couple of new blades anyway. Don't like to sharpen them more than once.... the guy I used to sharpen for me down here is not exactly an artisan so....

Thanks to all of you for your input ...





on Bubinga because I'm moving the wood too fast or too slow.

Its such a hassle to clean up!!! Any ideas??

[Tom Scott]

Ken,
One suggestion I read, and now use, for sawing off the tops of lids is to not saw completely through...leaving maybe 1/32". This way you don't have to worry about the lid moving or binding the saw blade on the latter cuts. Actually, you can saw completely through on the 2 long sides, and then leave the extra only on the short sides. Then use a hand saw or knife to cut it apart.

[aurelio alarcon]

I keep having a little trouble making lids for my boxes. I have been making the box and then the lid seperately. Well, what I do is rip the two sides and then rip two more equal lengths for a bottem and a top. Once these are ripped, I then rip each again so that I now have 8 pieces ( four for the main box and four for the box top). Although the match is extremely close, I usually have to lightly sand the outside of them to get a perfect match. Hello! Make the box and then cut the lid from the box. Is this how it's done?

[Ken Wright]

were almost impossible for me to match if I built them separate ... always off a tad here or a tad there. Believe it was someone on the old Pond that turned me on to building the single unit.

Be sure you "blue tape" the inside glue joints of the box before you glue it up ... real difficult to clean the squeeze out from the corners after its dried.








I keep having a little trouble making lids for my boxes. I have been making the box and then the lid seperately. Well, what I do is rip the two sides and then rip two more equal lengths for a bottem and a top. Once these are ripped, I then rip each again so that I now have 8 pieces ( four for the main box and four for the box top). Although the match is extremely close, I usually have to lightly sand the outside of them to get a perfect match. Hello! Make the box and then cut the lid from the box. Is this how it's done?

[Ken Wright]

that Tom and it worked but I always seemed to end up doing something that either caused some tear out or a knife slip that left a mark. I cut one long side first and then hot glue two scraps to freeze the space .. then work my way around the box hot gluing each cut as its made. Seems to work best for me to ensure that the blade stays exactly in the same spot on each cut. Both ways work ... guess your way would probably eliminate the burn that I'm getting from the pencil trick.

You know how that kind of thing goes ... seems like the mistake always comes at the end and in a place that's the dickens to fix.





Ken,
One suggestion I read, and now use, for sawing off the tops of lids is to not saw completely through...leaving maybe 1/32". This way you don't have to worry about the lid moving or binding the saw blade on the latter cuts. Actually, you can saw completely through on the 2 long sides, and then leave the extra only on the short sides. Then use a hand saw or knife to cut it apart.

[aurelio alarcon]

were almost impossible for me to match if I built them separate ... always off a tad here or a tad there. Believe it was someone on the old Pond that turned me on to building the single unit.

Be sure you "blue tape" the inside glue joints of the box before you glue it up ... real difficult to clean the squeeze out from the corners after its dried.
for the tip on using the blue tape.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Ken,do you have a bandsaw? That's the way I cut the lids off boxes and its a lot easier than on a table saw. You have some bansaw marks to sand or scrape off, but you don't get tearout and its a really small kerf.

[Ken Wright]

have an older Jet 14" that a friend gave me after he turned it over and broke the table trunions, etc. Jet customer service was great to help me find the parts for the repairs. Made the repairs and this week have been adding a riser block but ran into problems ... this older model takes a hexagon shaped guide post and Jet no longer makes that .. so .. I've ordered a 16" hexagon piece for the post from a friend in the fabricating business. It should be here Monday.

I knew that a good many use a bandsaw to cut the box tops but haven't had the opportunity to check that out yet.

Thanks for the info





Ken,do you have a bandsaw? That's the way I cut the lids off boxes and its a lot easier than on a table saw. You have some bansaw marks to sand or scrape off, but you don't get tearout and its a really small kerf.