Infill Plane assembly tutorial

[Ron Brese]

Several here ask for me to post a tutorial on a plane assembly process that I developed in my shop. I have coined the name "The threaded rivet process."

Here goes:

Pic 1 shows the two parts of the sole and one side. The back part of the sole is cut at the bed angle in this case 50 deg.(York pitch) and the front section is cut at 22.5 degrees.

Pic 2 shows the back part of the sole and the side clamped and fastened to a block ready for drilling.

Pic 3 shows one hole drilled.

Pic 4 while still clamped in the drill position remove the drill and install the countersink and countersink the hole enough to provide a good grip for the rivet head.

Pic 5 While in the same position remove the countersink and install the tap. Use slight downward pressure with the drill press handle and turn the chuck by hand to tap the hole.

See the rest of the tutorial in part 2

[Ron Brese]

Pic 6 Shows screw installed.

Pic 7 Shows one side with all screws installed.

Pic 8 Finished side.

General notes:

(1) Rivets are 6/32 x .5 solid brass screws. To get an idea of spacing the back part of the sole is 3.875" long and received 5 rivets. The front part received 3 rivets spaced even closer.

(2) The holes must be deeper than the length of the screws and you must use a bottom tap. The screw centers are just slightly higher than the center line of the .250 thick sole.

(3) At final assembly the screws should be install using a drop of industrial metal epoxy. (you really don't want it to loosen) loctite or 5 minute epoxy might also work but I prefer the metal epoxy.

(4) Work the screw head down with a coarse file, but before you get it worked all the way down peened the edges with a punch to make sure the metal fills the countersink quite tightly.

The finished plane can be seen in the thread "Comments and questions about infill planes by Steven Blunt"

It's a lot of work but those fluffy shavings are worth it!! My New Zealand plane making friend calls my method "screwed,glued,peened and cleaned"

Ron

[Jon Knauft]

Great concept Ron. A couple of questions though. What kind of brass and bronze is best for planemaking? I've been interested in making my own metal planes but have been overwhelmed by the options. I've checked out mcmaster as a source for both. Also, how are you cutting the brass and bronze? Thanks.

-Jon

[Ron Brese]

John I use a number of tools. I do some roughing out of the shape of the sides with a jigsaw with metal blade and then refine them to a template with a bearing guided flush trim carbide router bit. I also refine the width of the soles with a jig and the flush trim bit again. I cut the brass and bronze quite easily with my mitre saw. The cuts with the mitre saw typically have to be refined on a sanding platen with wet/dry sandpaper, especially the angle cuts on the sole pieces. One thing you need to keep in mind, metal is different than wood. You will need to clamp things down firmly whether drilling or routing. Metal is much more unforgiving than wood especially on you body parts. A plane side that gets hung on a drill bit and is swinging around under you drill press can hurt you real quick. Be careful and think thru your processes. I will get back to you on the specific metal alloys. One more note, a face shield is a must have, metal shavings in the eye can't be good.

Ron

[Mike Weaver]

Ron,
Thanks for posting this!

Why bronze for the sole though? (and where did ya get it?)

Again - thanks & great pics.
-Mike

[Ron Brese]

Bronze has great heft and works well with the tools I have available. It's low carbon content makes it safer in the event some of the shavings or sanding powder gets in my dust collection system. The high carbon content of steel could actually create a fire when mixed with wood shavings. The bronze soles on these planes have good wear resistance. I have been using them for some time now and recently I put them on a sanding platen just to check them for wear I got a consistent scratch pattern over the entire surface of the sole right away. If an area had worn excessively it would have shown up during this operation. Besides my Lie-Nielsen #4 has a bronze sole and it has held up great. I get my bars for plane building from McMaster Carr. Hope this helps.

Ron

[Mike Weaver]

Ron,
Good info - thanks.

I have heard that LN planes sometimes leave 'tracks' on wood when they haven't been used enough.

I'm assuming you've been using yours enough to avoid that?

Again - great looking planes!

-Mike

[Ron Brese]

I've actually never had a track problem with my Lie-Nielsen or my planes when new.

Ron

[Mike Weaver]

I've actually never had a track problem with my Lie-Nielsen or my planes when new.
Great!
Thanks again.

You've inspired me to at least check on materials prices, etc & file this as another 'round tuit' project.

My wife would shoot me if I started another project right now. :eek:

-Mike