Cutting T-Slot for Router Table

[Mike Hill]

I am in the process of building the New Yankee Workshop Router table. Attached is a picture of the T-Slots I need to cut as outlined in Norm's plans. I have a 3/8" Straight bit, but need to find a bit to cut the 5/8 slot for the head of the screw. Any suggestions on where to find one. In the DVD that came with the plan, Norm just calls it a "special" bit. :)

Here is the drawing from the plan.
Mike

54814

[Michael McCoy]

Here's what you need:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1774

[Mike Goetzke]

I don't know if their a perfect match but places like Holbren and Rockler have what they call T-slot cutters.

[Guy Boulianne]

Try this one:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=51233&cat=1,46168,46176&ap=1

[Mike Hill]

Thanks for the help. I found the exact bit I needed at woodcraft.
Mike

[Mike Heidrick]

I bought the Whiteside slot cutting bit when I was going to build the table. Holbren is a great whiteside dealer. I will get the part nmber and post it here in case any other members need this bit. For any members that are members on woodnet, Holbren will give a discount to you on non sale items. Check out woodnet for details.

[Art Davis]

Mike:

Dumb question, I guess---but where did you get the plans for Norm's table?

Art

[Mike Heidrick]

Mike:

Dumb question, I guess---but where did you get the plans for Norm's table?

Art

Probably differnt Mike but newyankee dot com sells them. $10.95 for the plans. $25 with the DVD.

[Mike Hill]

I might add that it is no small undertaking. It sure is satisfying though to see it going together. Very stoutly made and really functional. Norm leaves out a lot of things he takes for granted that we should know :)
It really forces one to think and go slowly.
Mike

[Larry Singer]

I'm contemplating buying a large rounter shortly, have set my sights on the PC 7518. Will then look to build a table. A couple of immediate questions, though I'm sure many more will come if I get serious about this:

Is the DVD from w/ the NYW Plans the same as the show or is more detail provided that is edited out to fit the 30 minute time slot?

Does anyone have any links to other router table systems that you can build yourself. I'm looking for exceptional designs that I can investigate.

Thanks in advance for the help...I'll likely be back soon.

[Laurie Brown]

I built a router table very similar to Norm's using Danny Proulx's book, Building Woodshop Workstations. I also built the saw table in that book. The book is on Amazon.com for $16.49, and has designs for a number of different things for the shop.

You can see my router table at www.aerth.org/woodworking

[Bob Childress]

Is the DVD from w/ the NYW Plans the same as the show or is more detail provided that is edited out to fit the 30 minute time slot?

No, the DVD is just the already-edited show. But his plans are pretty detailed.

[Charles Wilson]

I might add that it is no small undertaking. It sure is satisfying though to see it going together. Very stoutly made and really functional. Norm leaves out a lot of things he takes for granted that we should know :)
It really forces one to think and go slowly
Mike

What exactly do you mean Mike? Could you give me an example as I am a novice and am looking to build this table?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Mike Hill]

Chuck: I found that the instructions (like most WW plans) are not entirely complete. Norms assumes we are all semi-experienced Wood Workers. Be sure and read/view the section where you add the drawer dividers before adding the sides of the cabinet. I missed this and had to drill some holes in the side and interior panels, then plug them and paint later. It was entirely my fault and a result of my impatience. With shop cabinets, I tend to think I can just throw them together. A little ADHD I think it is called :) When making a template for the inlay for your router plate, use it on a piece of scrap MDF. Be sure the plate fits snuggly and has absolutely no movement. I thought mine was fairly tight, but had to add a hardwood shim later since it moved slight when the router was under power. I guess it is just a case of being meticulous. In the end though, it is a tremendous router table and really functional. It is a wonderful project though for increasing your competence in many areas and reinforcing the need for precise measurements and patience.
Mike

[Eddie Darby]

I would suggest that you consider this option.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=52399&cat=1,43455,52799

Once you epoxy these in, they won't come out, and they are stronger than using a wood "T" slot.

The advantage I see with using "T" slot bits is if you are making a display wall or a tool rack. Then strength is not as important and having numerous cheap slots is.

[Brian Dormer]

I'm with Eddie on this one - bag the t-slot. Cut a dado and install -track. Given the repeated stress put on a t-track - I would worry that wood would fail - probably in the middle of cutting a long, tricky sliding dovetail in some expensive 100 year old oak. T-track is inexpesive, abundant and flexible. I use it all over my shop.

[Neil Lamens]

I'm with Eddie and Brian on this. Rockler also has them very reasonably priced.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5325&filter=t%20track


Also..........you will not always use the table with the fence. easy to just sldie off.

Neil

[John Piwaron]

I might add that it is no small undertaking. It sure is satisfying though to see it going together. Very stoutly made and really functional. Norm leaves out a lot of things he takes for granted that we should know :)
It really forces one to think and go slowly.
Mike


Norm's not the only one. Try building something David Marks has done on Wood Works.

[John Piwaron]

I'm with the others. Forget cutting a T slot and use aluminum T track in a dado.

I too have Norms router table plans and am good to go on it as my next project. I'm goin' with aluminum T track.

[glenn bradley]

Mike,

If all this ends up with you going to an aluminum t-track, that is a good option. When selecting your t-track you have to pick a camp to minimize your variables. I went with the Rockler track sized for T-bolts, 5/16 x 18 thread. These bolts do not fit tracks designed for hex head bolts.

Ups:

I feel more secure with 5/16" T-bolts.
They're not expensive but need to be ordered if you don't have a Rockler / Woodcraft / Whatever nearby.
Jigs, stop blocks, hold downs, etc. are interchangeable between RT fence, sled, DP, whatever.Downs:

T-bolts don't come in really long lengths should the need arise.
Hex bolts can be found anywhere.
Hex head machine screws are almost as easy to find if you need a fully threaded shaft.
Just speaking from my experience of almost ending up with multiple bolts and knobs to fit various stuff.

I have several low stress items that run in t-slots in MDF. I have never had a failure. You have to have a key on the stop block (or whatever) that fits into the narrow part of the t-slot and allows about a 1/32 of compression by the bolt. This keeps the block straight and avoids crushing an all-wood t-slot base material.

All that blah, blah for JMHO??? Whew!

[Mike Hill]

It's interesting. I thought this thread was a dead issue. But! You all have hit on the one thing that is currently causing me problems with Norm's great router table. The heads of the bolts in the fence track no longer dig in and eventually will pull through. I think T-Track ( through bolted) along with the 4" dust port is the way to go. It's funny, I think with all this input and Norm updating his plans, he could come up with a bullet proof table :-) As it is though, I could not be happier. Just today I routed some molding for a tool box that had 6 individual cuts in a 3/4" piece of Oak. It came out perfectly.

Mike