Need opinion dowel joint or metal alt.

[Peter Elliott]

Hi,

Looking for opinions on this part I am making.

http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/th_DSCN1969.jpg http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/th_DSCN1967.jpg http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/th_DSCN1966.jpg

The dowel is oak, cut a 50 degree's. I need this bond to be the strongest available. Tried Gorilla Glue, had it in the shop, no good. Titebond III seems to hold better.

Will Epoxy be the best product? Strongest glue to bond these to parts?

I really would like to find a metal angled flange. Anyone have idea where to get angled flanges? Accept a 1 3/8" dowel or close to it?

Thanks for the help
Peter

[Hoa Dinh]

Can you reinforce the join with a dowel? I think that is better than any "special" glue...

[John Schreiber]

I'm not quite sure what you are trying to glue.
54750
If I'm picturing it right, glue by itself would be very weak in the joint. I would want to reinforce it with a spline or something like that.

[Doug Shepard]

I wouldn't want to rely on glue alone. Does it have to be a butt joint? I would drill an angled hole and insert the dowel. That would at least give it some mechanical support.

[Peter Elliott]

I quickly put my prototype together so you can understand what I am try to accomplish.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/DSCN1973.jpg?t=1168395506

I need a "connection part" from the stand to the wood craddle.

Was hoping to find a metal flange to join these two but I can not.

The pipe that comes out of the stand accepts 1 3/8" dowel. (or ID of the pipe)

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/DSCN1972.jpg?t=1168395548
The cradle will hold a musical instrument about 10lbs.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k204/ElliottMD/construction/DSCN1971.jpg?t=1168395621

[Jim Becker]

For any kind of strength, that dowel either needs to engage into the piece you are mounting to with a tenon or with some other equivalent thing like a loose tenon, large dowel, etc. Gluing end-grain to the face of the block is just not going to hold up even with modern glues...it's one of the weakest joints you can have. If that's the finished piece, your best bet is a large dowel/lose tenon into a hole drilled into the dowel as well as into the flat piece. That will give you some glue surface that will be stronger and able to handle the stress involved with the piece.

[Peter Elliott]

Thanks Jim. I was headed to the dowel/tenon design. Just hoping for a wonder glue. Yes, the weakest joint I could think of.

I could end up making a lot of these, so I was thinking production.

The prototype is holding up well with Titebond III and a kreg fine screw. Kinda been beating it up but I know a year from now, prob. won't hold.

Anyone know where to get angled brackets or flanges?

Any wiz band ideas on how to improve this part?

I am stump (and can't stand it)

Thanks ALL!
Peter

[John Schreiber]

I didn't see the pictures when I saw this thread earlier. Now it's much easier to see what you are going for.

I would suggest a 1 3/8" forstner drill bit to drill a hole into the support block, insert the dowel into the hole then glue and screw. That would hold up to a fair amount of use.

If you really want something metal, there might be something that would work in boat railing hardware, but it would probably be 3/4" or 1" at most.

[Greg Funk]

How about one of these?

http://www.brassfinders.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=6770

Not exactly 50 degrees but might be close enough. In general commercial handrail suppliers should have flanges that work.

Greg

[Jamie Buxton]

How 'bout this flange? It is a brass flange, angled at 45 degrees, to fasten to 1 1/2" OD tubing. (You mention that your pipe has 1 3/8" ID. Perhaps it has 1 1/2" OD and would slip right in?)




http://www.lavionline.com/html/itempage_footrail.asp?name=1%2D1%2F2%22+ANGLE+FLAN GE+45+DEG&sku=515&class=Flanges&code=FL&pf=footrail

[glenn bradley]

If not a mechanical flange I would drill the flat piece with a receiver hole. A forstner at the correct angle might be an idea.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I prefer the non metal drilling or tenon ideas. I would screw it from the inside though so it doesn't show outside.

[Peter Elliott]

Thanks, all your ideas got me thinking on the right search.

I found a handrail component out of aluminum.

http://www.academyfence.com/images/speedhandrailfittings/ns/19.jpg

It will fit perfect (accepts the 1-3/8" pipe) and is in the budget range. This will be a resale item so got to keep the cost down.

I will spray it black to match the stand.

This saves me a ton of time plus extra strength, I can sleep at night knowing it won't break.

I did find the brass version and will keep that in mind for another product like this but upgraded. Thanks for the links.

Peter