Any Tricks for Setting Up Incra Positioner?

[Mike Goetzke]

I just finished making 10 half blind DT drawers for a shop cabinet using my Incra LS-Positioner. This is only my second time using this jig.

Adjusting the bit height is pretty straight forward but I have problems using the Incra method to center the bit to the board. They tell you to set the bit close to center then flip the board and make another cut and adjust the jig to center the gap around the bit. I find it hard to see the gap clearly and made some drawer sides and fronts that are up to 0.050" off center.

It figures, on my last set of drawers I tried a new method - I made two dovetail cuts on the sample piece at the two ends (not the center - but probably could have made one center cut). Then I took a digital caliper to measure the thickenss from the end of the board to the throat of the dovetail at both ends. Since the Incra LS can be easily adjusted in 0.001" increments it was easy to center the board this way.

I was just wondering if anyone has a better method for centering the boards/bit. This would make using the jig more enjoyable for me.

Thanks,

Mike

[Guy Germaine]

I use the "flip the board" method. I make a pass with the board standing on end, then just turn it around and make another pass. Then, I just set the board over the bit (router off, of course), and use the micro adjuster to fine tune it so that the gap is the same size on both sides of the bit. No measuring needed if it looks centered by eye, it's close enough for me.

[John Ricci]

Mike, I have the Incra Ultra and I use their Auto Centre tool which makes the process foolproof and IIRC only costs about $20. I just took a look on the Incra website and the tool is listed but the page is being updated right now so it isn't much help with any info.

[Ken Garlock]

Centering your fence is easy. You need 3 items:
1) A 1/2 or 3/4 rabbeting bit.
2) The auto centering template
3) A block of wood with one straight edge.

Proceed as follows:

1) Install the auto-centering template. Don't worry about position now.

2) Install the rabbeting bit in the router with 1/2 inch extended above the table surface. Rotate the bit such that the cutting edges line up with the leg of the fence assembly; that is also perpendicular to the vertical surface of the fence(the part the wood touches.) This is the point where the bit will cut the deepest into your wood.

3) With the fence free, move the fence such that it covers 1/2 to 3/4 of the bit.

4) Take the block of wood in hand and very gently place the end of the block against the fence. Then slowly rotate the block until it touches the bit. At this point you will have the corner end of the block touching the fence, and the perpendicular edge of the block touching the bit, but not on the cutting edge yet.

5) Now for the hard part:rolleyes: With your left hand use a finger to keep the block from sliding around the table. I put a finger on the table surface and just touching the wooden block. Then slowly slide the fence forward until the block is in contact with the fence. At this point you have the block flat up against the fence and still touching the cutting edge of the bit. This is the most important part of the setup, so pay attention here.:)

6) Move your attention to the right end of the auto-centering template. You will see a zero line with various other fractions to its right. Without moving the fence assembly, move the template under the fence cursor to the size of the rabbeting bit fraction right of the zero line. If you used a 3/4 bit, move the 3/4 mark under the cursor.

Your fence is now zeroed for the center of the router. Once done it is good for all bits. Move the fence to the zero mark on the auto-centering template and you are zeroed in on the exact center of the router bit shank.

So far you have not had the fence in setup mode. Now clamp the lead screw in setup mode. This may cause the fence to move forward of back a little. If it does, just rotate the "fine tuning" knob to bring the fence back to zero and then reset the knob legend to its new zero.

Once you have done this a time or two, it is quick and easy to repeat as the templates tend to vibrate around a little in their track.

When i bought my LS system from Woodpeckers, I got a set of tapes and this process was shown on one of the tapes.

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for the help. Went out to the shop tonight and tried both methods (auto-centering template and the cut and flip the board and cut again method). Both worked great. I found my problem with initial set-up using the two cut method was with lighting. Tonight I placed a flashlight behind the test board and it made a night/day difference in seeing the gap on both sides of the cutter.