Are CMT saw blades any good?

[Tom Andersen]

My local dealer claims that CMT saw blades are better than those from Dewalt. Does anybody have experience with them?

[Frank Snyder]

Tom - I have their 8" dado set and I've been very happy with the smooth bottom cuts it produces. I cannot speak for any of their other 10" or 12" blades (though I'd highly recommend the new Freud Fusion blade...see http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48639) (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48639%29). I also have a few of CMT's router bits and I think that they are a good value.

[scott spencer]

Tom - DeWalt makes at least three quality levels, or at least did. Series 20, 40 and 60...construction, hobbyist, and cabinet maker grade. Any of the series 40 or 60 blades I've used have been excellent examples of that configuration, and a good value....especially on Ebay. The series 20 appears suitable for rough work, but I sure wouldn't consider them top shelf.

I've never directly compared the CMT blades, but I read plenty of positives and would be surprised if they didn't shake out comparable with the Series 40 and 60 blades.

[Mike Cutler]

Tom.
I use CMT blades all of the time. They are very nice blades. I would put their quality about a step below a Forrest WWII, only because I own one of those also and can do a side by side comparison.
I use the Full Kerf CMT's. I found that the Thin Kerf's had a tendency to "potato chip" ever so slightly. Especially on long rips where I was just trying to take a fraction off.

[Fred Voorhees]

Tom.
I use CMT blades all of the time. They are very nice blades. I would put their quality about a step below a Forrest WWII, only because I own one of those also and can do a side by side comparison.
I use the Full Kerf CMT's. I found that the Thin Kerf's had a tendency to "potato chip" ever so slightly. Especially on long rips where I was just trying to take a fraction off.

I'll bite Mike, what do you mean by "potato chip"?

[Mike Cutler]

I'll bite Mike, what do you mean by "potato chip"?

Fred.
The Thin Kerf blades have a visible deflection as the blade skims the edge of a board. Deeper rips on harder woods, Jatoba, Wenge, Lacewood, Cocobola, in the center of say, an 8/4 piece of material have a measurable angle to the cut. The blade has been set to 90 degrees prior to cutting also.
The only thing I can think of that's dong this, is that the blade is distorting slightly as it spins. The "Potato Chip" is my gross exaggerations for this.

I'm also having trouble with the stock fence on my General Tablesaw. It won't stay aligned to the blade,and this could be adding to the problem. The fence will be going as soon as funds are available.Right now I'm using the old fence off my Jet contractor saw.
The fence won't lock in postion either, and has to be clamped due to some poor material selection,and design, but that's another story.:(