"Best" bowl gouge

[Jason Morgan]

I am thinking this is a highly loaded question, but I am just starting out in turning (got my lathe and a starter tool set, grinder, wolverine, chuck, etc. etc.) and I am looking for a good first bowl gouge. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Jason

[Dario Octaviano]

Best? Look at Glaser Hitec Gouge.

Best value IMHO is Crown ProPM... best price I know is here http://www.woodchipshome.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WC&Category_Code=BG

[Gordon Seto]

Jason,

It all depends on how you use the gouge, what angle and how you are approaching the wood. There are better steel gouges; but the flute shape and grind has to fit your style.
I tried to buy the tools and change the grind of my gouges after watching every famous demonstrator's demo when I first started. It didn't do anything to my turning except my tools are shorter.
Some guy's signature - "It is not the arrow, its the Indian" woke me up. Everybody has his(her) unique style of turning.

Join a local turning club if you can. Hopefully you can try out different tools and see what is best for you.

Gordon

[David Walser]

Jason,

I'd suggest you start with a 1/2" bowl gouge made from HSS (high speed steel). I'd also suggest you go cheap rather than go for a "name brand" tool. If you are like most of us, you'll spend a lot of time (and steel) learning how to grind a proper edge. Might as well make that learning process as inexpensive as possible. Once you know how to sharpen and have enough experiance to know what type of "flute" you want, you might want to buy a more expensive model.

Here's a link to something that is along the lines of what I am suggesting:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lx220.html

Another option is to consider buying a tool at the same time you take a class (assuming you are going to take a class). For example, Craft Supply USA gives a discount (10% IIRC) if you buy while you are at class. I believe Woodcraft does something similar (policies might vary by store). Buying your tools at the same time as you take a class allows you to go home with a tool that is the same as what you learned with. It allows you to make a more informed decision as to what type of tool might best fit what you want to do next. And, besides, it is a nice way of thanking the store for hosting your training.

[Raymond Overman]

I'm very fond of the P&N bowl gouges and I just got a 16MM Supa Gouge that is now my go to gouge. They come unhandled so you can practice your spindle work with them too.



P&N Gouges at Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/home/currency.aspx?urlto=http%3a%2f%2fwww.leevalley.com %2fwood%2fpage.aspx%3fc%3d%26cat%3d1%2c330%26p%3d4 9138)

[Steve Hayes]

I agree. I have 2 P&N bowl gouges, they feel and cut great.

[Rich Souchek]

"good first bowl gouge" - I would suggest a name brand 3/8" super flute type for your first bowl gouge. The Crown Pro is good, so are Sorbys, Taylors, Glasers, Oneways, P & N, etc.
The 3/8" size is good all around and the superflute feature is a little more forgiving than a regular flute.
Biggest question is from whom to buy? Supporting a store nearby can help you with questions, problems, and more equipment in the future.
Rich S.

[Joash Boyton]

Here, I can buy a handled 3/4" HSS bowl gouge for $41.00. That is at our local Carbatec, I reccomend one of them, they cut beautifully;)

[David Walser]

Here, I can buy a handled 3/4" HSS bowl gouge for $41.00. That is at our local Carbatec, I reccomend one of them, they cut beautifully;)

And, Jason, if you buy enough of them, with the money you save by buying them locally (where Joash buys them), you can pay for your trip to Australia!

[Jim Becker]

IMHO, the grind and flute design is more important that the specific gouge brand. I use an Ellsworth grind for my bowl gouges. Two of them are "official" David Ellsworth gouges and one is a re-ground Sorby that is almost, but not quite the same due to slight differences in the flute design. I do have a hankering to try a Glasser at some point...but with a similar grind, of course!

[Jason Morgan]

Thanks for the advice. Ill was thinking that an inexpensive 3/8" or 1/2" HSS bowl gouge would be what I would want, but I see so many different grinds. Standard, fingernail, ellsworth. This turning thing has its own language it seems That is the biggest hurdle I think.

Thanks again.

Now to make something worthy of a post! :D

[Raymond Overman]

"good first bowl gouge" - I would suggest a name brand 3/8" super flute type for your first bowl gouge. The Crown Pro is good, so are Sorbys, Taylors, Glasers, Oneways, P & N, etc.
The 3/8" size is good all around and the superflute feature is a little more forgiving than a regular flute.


I'd bump up to the 1/2" for a P&N gouge if it was the only gouge I owned because their measurements are metric and 12 MM (3/8") would be small for an all around gouge. You want a little more meat in the tool than the 12 MM for roughing out a bowl. For details and final shear cut passes, the 3/8" is a good choice.

That said, my first bowl gouge was a 3/8" Crown (non pro - non Ellsworth) that was a very fine tool.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Jason, I've turned some very large pieces and I've never owned a bowl gouge bigger than 1/2". For most work, especially starting out, you'll be happy with a 3/8" tool. It's not so much the brand; it's the edge and the shape of the edge that's most important.

[Lee DeRaud]

I'd bump up to the 1/2" for a P&N gouge if it was the only gouge I owned because their measurements are metric and 12 MM (3/8") would be small for an all around gouge. You want a little more meat in the tool than the 12 MM for roughing out a bowl.Uh, 12mm is 1/2" for all practical purposes: 3/8" is about 9.5mm.

Of course, that's leaving aside the whole nonsense of measuring across the flute rather than the diameter of the shank...I have no idea which way P&N measures theirs.

[George Tokarev]

I am thinking this is a highly loaded question, but I am just starting out in turning (got my lathe and a starter tool set, grinder, wolverine, chuck, etc. etc.) and I am looking for a good first bowl gouge. Any suggestions?


As some have mentioned, it depends. Swing of the lathe is a factor, then there's depth of the piece to consider. Foolish to try and fit a 1/2 flute (~3/4" rod) into a small piece, time-consuming to cut a 12" with a 1/4" flute.

Guess that's why I recommend the middle at 3/8 flute. Don't fancy the more V shaped because the shavings fold and jam on me rather than roll around and out. Also complicates the sweet spot for finishing cuts with the nose. Brand? The multiplicity of answers should key you. Doesn't make any difference, really. It's not complicated metallurgy. Flute shape, flute length and total steel make a difference.

Same thing on famous name grinds. Bunch of them out there. You can play the field at the cost of steel or realize that all of them work and spend the time using not regrinding. Depending on how you turn, the slope of your rest, the height of your lathe versus your inseam and so forth, you will eventually figure out that there is a side grind length that will give you what you're after - but not if you grind/sharpen your gouge with a jig which gives you no variation.

I only hog with bowl gouges. The money is in the trimming once shape is established. These are my choice for the cuts that count. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=43177&cat=1,330,43164,43175

[Jim Becker]

George, those are spindle gouges with tangs you linked to...

Oh, I use my 1/2"(5/8") Ellsworth gouges even for small bowls and hollowforms. The side grind works well even when you need to get into tight places and it's nice to be able to use a familiar tool 90% of the time.

[Dario Octaviano]

George, those are spindle gouges with tangs you linked to...

Oh, I use my 1/2"(5/8") Ellsworth gouges even for small bowls and hollowforms. The side grind works well even when you need to get into tight places and it's nice to be able to use a familiar tool 90% of the time.

I agree.

There seems to be a misconception that you need small tools to turn small things. While it can be true on some instances it is mostly not.

The only limiting thing that I realy see is the cost difference between smaller bowlgouge and the bigger ones...budget is REAL to some of us after all (me included).

If I can only have one, I will most likely go with 1/2" (British) myself.

[Skip Spaulding]

Hey Jason, Just get a hss gouge and start turning. I have found I learn something on every project. I exploded an almost finished 11+diam. bowl last night. Tried to get it a little thinner! Get full face shield and go for it!
Skip

[Jason Morgan]

Good Advice Skip!

Im still trying to figure out the grinds and tool placement for the different cuts. My 3/8" "normal" grind spindle gouge seems to be working for most of the cuts I am making. My next (first really) project is in spindle land, spindle of a shaker candle stand. I can do that with the tools I have. But next I want to try a bowl and it sounds like a bowl gouge is needed.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Jason

[George Tokarev]

George, those are spindle gouges with tangs you linked to...



They're forged gouges. They peel beautifully and with great control because the bevel angle is constant all across the nose, made possible by a constant thickness of steel. Almost impossible to get a catch with them once you've established a bevel. With the broad radius curve, you can get a lot of bevel in contact for stability while taking a continuous cut, though they also poke fairly well with a swing cut. No backache because you stand full upright as you do spindle cutting, and no tangling the handle and banjo because you're using the gouge nearly perpendicular to the toolrest.

Here's one working the inside of some curly birch.

What's in a name? It's the edge that counts.

[John Shuk]

The Ellsworth grind is fairly dependent on using approx. 5/8 stock. The edge needs the support given by the thicker stock to do what it does. If you are conidering using this grind you would be well served getting a 1/2 inch or 5/8 gouge. Flute design is also an issue since the grind and effective cutting edge allow for good chip flow. I know this doesn't lead to a specific brand but having an idea of what grind you plan to use has an impact on what tool is best for you.