Help with drawers

[Jeff Hamilton]

I'm seeking help from the masses. On drawers with through dovetails how do you cut the slot in the sides to hold the bottom? I'm at a loss I can't glue it up because then how would I get the bottom in? Help please

[Paul Kunkel]

I'm seeking help from the masses. On drawers with through dovetails how do you cut the slot in the sides to hold the bottom? I'm at a loss I can't glue it up because then how would I get the bottom in? Help please
:D I dado a 1/4" slot about 1/8-3/16" up from the bottom on the tablesaw on all my drawer stock. Slip the bottom 1/4 ply in and glue up. :D Having a through dado is OK because the drawer front covers it in front.

[Don Abele]

Jeff, I cut a dado the width of my bottom panel (usually 1/4") up 3/8" from the bottom of the drawer sides and front. I cut the back 5/8" shorter. This lets me slide the bottom in from the back and tack it on with brads through the back piece.

I cut the dado's on the tablesaw. After I do all the sides and fronts, I raise the blade up beyond the thickness of sides then I run the backs through - this removes the exact amount off that will let the bottom slip past. Yes, I could do it with a single blade, but this is quicker and I'm assured that it'll be cut exactly the right width.

Hope this helps. Be well,

Doc

[Lee Schierer]

After I cut the dovetails in all fours sides as you have done, I set up my table saw with a dado blade raised up 1/4" (for half inch thick sides) and set the rip fence 3/8" from the bottom of the drawer to the bottom of the dao and rip a 1/4 X 1/4 groove on all four side pieces on the inside (I mark the inside with chalk to insure I don't accidently flip one of the pieces.) I cut the drawer bottom to 1/16 inch less than the size of the drawer dimension plus the depth of the grooves on each side. I assemble three sides and slide in the drawer bottom before assembling the fourth side. The drawer bottom is then captive on all four sides.


If you use half blind doeve tails the grooves won't show from the outside.

[Jeff Hamilton]

I think I need to resubmit this question.
The only way that I can see to do this job is by using a band clamp to hold the drawer together then using a slot cutter with the old router to keep from exposing the groove. Does this make sense?? I do agree that I should have used half blind dovetails. But to late now.. Oops
Jeff H

[Dave Crabbs]

I think I need to resubmit this question.
The only way that I can see to do this job is by using a band clamp to hold the drawer together then using a slot cutter with the old router to keep from exposing the groove. Does this make sense?? I do agree that I should have used half blind dovetails. But to late now.. Oops
Jeff H
Jeff,
If you have a router table you can could make a stopped dado. Use a router bit that is as wide as the bottom is thick (1/4" bottom=1/4" bit). Just stop the dado 1/8" from the tail ends. Cut the bottom to size and dry fit everything together before gluing it together.
I think this would be easier then trying to hold your router on a 1/2" drawer side without it tipping and using a slot cutter.
Just my $.02
Dave

[Terry Hatfield]

I think I need to resubmit this question.
The only way that I can see to do this job is by using a band clamp to hold the drawer together then using a slot cutter with the old router to keep from exposing the groove. Does this make sense?? I do agree that I should have used half blind dovetails. But to late now.. Oops
Jeff H

Look at you go........see how much trouble you got into with that new Leigh Jig!!!!!! You should have just used pocket screws. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

t

[Jeff Hamilton]

Look at you go........see how much trouble you got into with that new Leigh Jig!!!!!! You should have just used pocket screws. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

t

You got that right. I love the jig but it just keeps getting me in trouble
I believe that I got it under control tonight.
Thanks to all for your help. As always this is the best place for help.
Jeff H