Miter saw tables...

[John Miliunas]

Hopefully, sometime in the next week or two, I'll be setting up my miter saw station and have a question about the tables: If one is a bit restricted in total length, should one have the longer side to the left or to the right of the blade? I've seen it both ways and, due to the space confinements of my old shop, the long side was to the right. This seemed to work for most things, but I now have the opportunity to go either way with it. Is one way the "right" way or is it simply a matter of space and/or preference? :cool:

[Jim Becker]

I think if I had to choose, I'd want more room to the left. Why? My saw is operated with my right hand and my left generally is used to hold down the lumber in question. But that's just me. Your needs and comfort may be different.

[Terry Hatfield]

John,

I would say mostly personal preference, but here was my reasoning when I put my longer table on the left......

I am right handed. If I have the longer table on the left, and the long part of the board is on the left, the cut line is on the left of the blade. I can comfortably see the line and operate the saw with my right hand while holding the board with my left hand. Worked for me anyway.

Hitachi's laser is adjustable, but works better on the left side of the blade as well.

Terry

[Wes Bischel]

I would say left as well. Left hand holds the work - and the stop block if needed, it goes on the right.

Wes - wondering how left handed people survive with right hand biased tools.

[Von Bickley]

John,
Mine are equal on both sides, but I use the left side probably about 98% of the time.
The left side works best for me....

[aurelio alarcon]

John,

I would say mostly personal preference, but here was my reasoning when I put my longer table on the left......

I am right handed. If I have the longer table on the left, and the long part of the board is on the left, the cut line is on the left of the blade. I can comfortably see the line and operate the saw with my right hand while holding the board with my left hand. Worked for me anyway.

Hitachi's laser is adjustable, but works better on the left side of the blade as well.

Terry
Hey Terry, those are nice extensions. Are they aluminum? Are they available comercially, or did you fabricate them?

[Terry Hatfield]

Aurelio,

Thanks!!

I made them from regular old melamine shelving. Here is the link to the table article on my site.

www.terryhatfield.com/ms_table.html

Terry

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio,

Thanks!!

I made them from regular old melamine shelving. Here is the link to the table article on my site.

www.terryhatfield.com/ms_table.html

Terry
thanks for the link Terry.

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio,

Thanks!!

I made them from regular old melamine shelving. Here is the link to the table article on my site.

www.terryhatfield.com/ms_table.html

Terry
you said that this would allow you to use your "flip fence". Could this be adapted to use my sliding fence, or would I just have to not use it? By the way, excellent photos on you link.

[Ken Salisbury]

I am right handed. If I have the longer table on the left, and the long part of the board is on the left, the cut line is on the left of the blade. I can comfortably see the line and operate the saw with my right hand while holding the board with my left hand. Worked for me anyway.
Terry
The same question applies to a RAS station. However mine has the same amount (10') on both sides :D. If I had been space limited when I did it I would have put the most space to the left for the reasons Terry stated.


Terry is a lot smarter than he looks :D :D :D :D

[Phil Phelps]

It may be the only time you see me leaning to the "left" for anything. :p

[Jason Roehl]

Depending on your saw, there's another reason to "go left." Most miter saws built today are direct-drive with the motor to the right. So, even if you are left-handed, it is more difficult to put the held piece to the right and see around the motor housing to the line. The exception to this is saws like my DeWalt 708 SCMS, which is beltdrive, so the motor actually sits above and behind the blade, allowing for easier viewing of your cut line from either side. It also allows for greater cut capacity. (I've cut 5" tall baseboard standing against the fence!!)

Other than that, my vote is "to the left," since I'm a righty.

[John Miliunas]

Thank you, gentlemen! You're all so right, as I can remember numerous instances when it just seemed awkward to do it the other way around. I like to clamp my work whenever possible, to help eliminate some of the "pull" from the blade, but it would still make more sense keeping the bulk of the board on the left. So be it! Now I just need to get a design together and materials list. Thanks again! :cool:

[Terry Hatfield]

you said that this would allow you to use your "flip fence". Could this be adapted to use my sliding fence, or would I just have to not use it? By the way, excellent photos on you link.

Aurelio,

Not sure without seeing what you have, but most anything can be adapted with enough head scratching and arm chair engineering. Have any pics of your sliding fence???

Terry

[Terry Hatfield]

The same question applies to a RAS station. However mine has the same amount (10') on both sides :D. If I had been space limited when I did it I would have put the most space to the left for the reasons Terry stated.


Terry is a lot smarter than he looks :D :D :D :D


Hehehehehehehehehhe.....that's a good thing!!!! :D

t

[Don Abele]

John, I am hoping to finish up my new miter table in the next week. Since I move a lot, I limited the total size to 8' long. I have about 4' to the left of the blade and about 2.5' to the right. This distance is where I can setup my stop for repeat cuts. If I need to cut something longer than that, I have my router table to the left and my drill press to the right that I can use for supporting any longer stock. If I had the room, like Ken posted, I'd put 8-10' on either side of it.

Be well,

Doc

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio,

Not sure without seeing what you have, but most anything can be adapted with enough head scratching and arm chair engineering. Have any pics of your sliding fence???

Terry
Fortunately, I found some pictures. But it just slides out to the left side for bevel cuts. In other words, If I were to build one like yours (which I probably will), my slide would bump into the left hand of the table. It is really not that neccessary of an item once the table is built though. I'll do some head scratching along with some arm chair engineering and find a solution. I would, of course, remove the small extension wings. But you can see the sliding fence here ( it is in the in position, in other words, not slid out to the left) behind the clamped board. The second photo is another view. It actually shows the sliding fence better than the first one. See it to the left side. It is high to support taller boards. but that high back would bump into your tables back if I were to try and slide it out...I think. But it has to be slid out to the left in order to cut 45 degree bevels otherwise the blade would strike it. But it is removable.

[Terry Hatfield]

Aurelio,

Ah....I see now.....

You will most likely have to remove the sliding portion of the fence. It really should not be a big deal because your extension tables can be made with a taller back to support the work anyway.

Terry

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio,

Ah....I see now.....

You will most likely have to remove the sliding portion of the fence. It really should not be a big deal because your extension tables can be made with a taller back to support the work anyway.

Terry
That sounds about right to me.