Milwaukee or Hitachi Router

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I've been looking at 3 1/2 hp routers to replace my 7 year old craftsman which quit on me after less than 25-hours use. Its a variable speed/soft start which now only turns at very slow speed. (any suggestions with that would help also). Anyway I really like the features of the Milwaukee 5625, but its $170 more than the Hitachi MV12 and I wonder what I'll get for the $170. It will be installed in a router table and will mostly see 1/2" bits, but I have a few 1/4" bits too. I understand I have to order the 1/4 collet for the Hitachi?

Thanks in advance.

[Gene Collison]

I've been looking at 3 1/2 hp routers to replace my 7 year old craftsman which quit on me after less than 25-hours use. Its a variable speed/soft start which now only turns at very slow speed. (any suggestions with that would help also). Anyway I really like the features of the Milwaukee 5625, but its $170 more than the Hitachi MV12 and I wonder what I'll get for the $170. It will be installed in a router table and will mostly see 1/2" bits, but I have a few 1/4" bits too. I understand I have to order the 1/4 collet for the Hitachi?

Thanks in advance.

Dennis,

I have both of these routers, the Milwaukee is much easier to deal with for mounting in a table. It has better collets and requires no mods for table use. I really like it! The motor drops right out in your hand for easier bit changes, it also includes nice forged wrenches. The build quality is excellent with Japanese bearings and a non-sagging speed control. Not that there is anything wrong with the Hitachi, it is a good router, but it was never intended for table use, just adapted as necessary. It is not the high end tool that the Milwaukee is IMHO. But if you want to save even more money, my Hitachi is for sale at a really good price, email me!

Gene

[Wes Bischel]

Dennis,

Dave Brandt posted this a few days ago:

I took everyone's advice and went with the Hitachi MV-12, which I got for $135 at Amazon.com along with a $25 coupon from toolseeker.com! Seemed way to good to pass up. Now I gotta start thinking about a nice home for it (some version of Norm's table). Thanks to all that confirmed this router as a winner.

Just FYI on the price.

Wes

[Dennis Peacock]

I've been looking at 3 1/2 hp routers to replace my 7 year old craftsman which quit on me after less than 25-hours use. Its a variable speed/soft start which now only turns at very slow speed. (any suggestions with that would help also). Anyway I really like the features of the Milwaukee 5625, but its $170 more than the Hitachi MV12 and I wonder what I'll get for the $170. It will be installed in a router table and will mostly see 1/2" bits, but I have a few 1/4" bits too. I understand I have to order the 1/4 collet for the Hitachi?

Thanks in advance.
The M12V is a nice router and I like using it. I compare this to the DeWalt 3HP router and the M12V is a better router. I got it at the local Lowes for $159. I own a few Milwaukee tools and have NEVER regretted the purchase of the Milwaukee tools. The only problem I have with the M12V is the "plunge". It sticks and you have to tinker with it to get it to come UP and you have to press down "just right" to get it to plunge down. If the plunge worked better, I would be 100% sold on the M12V. Until then, I will keep using the PC 8529 which works extremely well and plunge is super smooth. Someday, I will try a Milwaukee router.

[Dan McLaughlin]

I have the M12V and the 8529. I agree will Dennis Peacock that the 8529 is a better plunge router but I have the M12V in a table so the "plungability" of the Hitachi is a non-issue. I wanted to get the Milwaukee for my table router but it wasn't available at the time I needed a table router. Besides, I picked up the M12V on E-bay for next to nothing. I had to spend $10 for new brushes and it works like a champ. I also have a Bosch combo 1617. Either the Bosch or the 8529 is going to be a dedicated dovetail router. If you are going to put it a table, I'd get the M12V and spend the $170 on some other tool you want/need. Or buy another M12V and use it outside the table. You can never have too many clamps or routers ;)

[warthog5]

I gotta agree with Gene Callison on this one. For the extra $170 you talk about. You will not need a router lifter with the Milwakee.
I have the 2 1/4hp model.

[Kent Cori]

Dennis,

I just ordered the M12V package from Amazon for $135 (stealth gloat) with free shipping and after the $25 Hitachi discount (code: THHTACBBK337). It comes with a bunch of accessories including a "1/4" adapter", edge and template guides and a fine depth adjustment knob. I'm going to mount it in my table so I really don't care about the plunge capability. I really just wanted a 3 hp motor so I could easily spin the really large bits. For this price, the Hitachi can't be beat. :D

I'll then use my Bosch 1617EVSPK combo for hand use. It too is a great router. :)

[Gene Collison]

I've been looking at 3 1/2 hp routers to replace my 7 year old craftsman which quit on me after less than 25-hours use. Its a variable speed/soft start which now only turns at very slow speed. (any suggestions with that would help also). Anyway I really like the features of the Milwaukee 5625, but its $170 more than the Hitachi MV12 and I wonder what I'll get for the $170. It will be installed in a router table and will mostly see 1/2" bits, but I have a few 1/4" bits too. I understand I have to order the 1/4 collet for the Hitachi?

Thanks in advance.

Dennis,

Be aware that for router table use, you will have to modify the base of the M12V by removing the protruding ears with a jigsaw. This is only required if you want to use large bits like panel raisers. After that proceedure, you will not be able to use the router with guide bushings. You will also need an offset wrench to change bits easily when in the table. In addition, only ONE of the M12V plunge columns has a guide bushing The column without a bushing has a tendency to fill up with chips because it is quite open. The plunge mechanism then becomes jammed. My M12V required collet chuck replacement when new because of excessive runout and vibration when cutting. It had .015 runout 1" from the chuck. I am talking from expereience, this is the way mine was! YMMV! Hope this helps...

Gene

[David LaRue]

If you cut the ears off the Hitachi, Pat Warner offers a round base that accecpts the PC bushings..
Dave

[Gene Collison]

If you cut the ears off the Hitachi, Pat Warner offers a round base that accecpts the PC bushings..
Dave

I'm not surprised! But if you have to cut off the ears, buy another base, buy another collet and an offset wrench, take out the springs, possibly buy a router lift because of the jamming problem with the column etc. etc........ To my way of thinking, you'd be better off buying a router that doesn't have all of these problems and is designed for table use. Unfortunately I found this out the hard way!! There are a number of routers more suitable for table use than Hitachi M12V.

Gene

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Hey Guys, thanks for the information, but now I've got a few more questions.

How do you adjust the height of the Hitachi when its in the table? I have a Bosch 1617 now and its cinch even though you have to do it under the table. Just release the lock and turn the knob. The deceased Craftsman was PIA because you had to adjust the plunge to vary the height.

I am buying the router specifically to turn raised panel cutters and need the capacity, so it sounds like the ears on the Hitachi would have to go. The Craftsman had the same problem, but I solved that by removing the baseplate and using the same screw holes to attach it to the table insert.

At this point I think I am leaning toward the Milwaukee.

[Gene Collison]

Hey Guys, thanks for the information, but now I've got a few more questions.

How do you adjust the height of the Hitachi when its in the table? I have a Bosch 1617 now and its cinch even though you have to do it under the table. Just release the lock and turn the knob. The deceased Craftsman was PIA because you had to adjust the plunge to vary the height.

I am buying the router specifically to turn raised panel cutters and need the capacity, so it sounds like the ears on the Hitachi would have to go. The Craftsman had the same problem, but I solved that by removing the baseplate and using the same screw holes to attach it to the table insert.

At this point I think I am leaning toward the Milwaukee.

Included with the Hitachi will be a height adjustment knob, a fine threaded piece of tubing that moves the plunge mechanism up and down. Changing cutters takes some time and can be fiddly. If you go with the Hitachi, first check it for runout. Mine was not suitable for use with a 3" plus cutter, it was OK after repair though.
Incidently, the depth of the bore on the Milwaukee is a bottomless pit, I don't think I have ever touched bottom with any cutter that I own. This means the router bit is secured as close to its center as possible.

Gene

[warthog5]

All good points to go with the Milwakee!

Taking a tool that wasn't desinged to do what you want it to do and then hacking it up to make it do what you want to do seems dumb.