Raised panels rails & styles

[John Grossi]

Happy New Year to all. This is a great forum and I think I am learning a lot. Question. I do not own a router table and am thinking of making some raised panel doors on my TS. I am okay with making the panels. When it comes to the rails & styles. Can I make them the same way I make face frames for bookshelves or cabinets using pocket screws or bisquits? Is it a strength issue? It seems if I run a dado along the inside of the rails & styles I should be able to slip in the raised panel. Any thoughts on this. Paul

[Jake Helmboldt]

You can use the table saw to make stub tenons and the groove for the panel to sit in. I think that would be far better than pocket screws, would be invisible, and stronger.

JH

[Jim Becker]

As long as you are intent on making "simple" rails and stiles, you can do it all on a table saw, cutting the grooves in both and doing the stub tenons on the end of the rails. I've done this a number of times with no problems. What you can't do on the table saw are the more detailed coping designs.

That said, I did use pocket screws on the doors of the cherry vanity I'm nearing completion on...but...used a straight cutter in the router table for the grooves to contain the panels.

[rodney mitchell]

I am in exactly the same boat you are in Paul and will be interested to see what responses you get.I hate to show my ignorance, but I really don't know what a stub tenon is.

Rodney Mitchell
Graham Texas

[Jim Becker]

The "stub tenon" is basically a short tenon on the end of the rails that mates with the groove in the stiles. This would typically be 3/8" long and about 1/4" thick.

54002

[J.R. Rutter]

If you do stub tenons, 1/2" or longer would be best for a shaker style.

You could also do mitered frames using biscuits. Then you can do an inside edge profile if you like.

[Jim W. White]

If you have a door that needs a little more support than what you are comportable having the stub tenon handle you can also use bridle joints which are also easily accomplished on the tablesaw. These are very strong and consistent with shaker design as well.

Here's a quick reference:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint

[Jim Becker]

JR and Jim are both correct, but unless the doors are unusually large, the stub tenons that match the depth of the panel slot will be more than strong enough...there is a lot of glue area. In effect, these are just cope and stick joints with a very simple design. You'll be hard pressed to break them under "normal" circumstances with modern glues involved.

[rodney mitchell]

Thanks for the explanation of the stub tenon, Jim.

RM