Building raised panels on the TS like Norm

[Mike Buelow]

Built some MDF raised panel doors this weekend for some built-in cabinets in the residential side of my estate. I used the techniques that Norm used on one of his episodes. Posted here are some photos and a couple notes for future users of the search function.

First photo is the jig in action. Adding a thin strip of UHMW to the top of the fence helped. Blade is 10deg tilt.

Second photo shows most important lesson of the day. Getting the angles on the corners to all line up from one cut to the next at perfect 45 degrees, the best thing I did was adding a feather board to the bottom to push it tight against the sled/fence. This took me about 45 mins or seven smaller disposable practice pieces.

One more thing I learned is to clamp a piece of 3/4" stock to the back of the panel if it extends beyond the length of the jig. That way it will remain pressed against the blade.

Unlike Norm I chose to use a straight bit on the router table instead of the TS to rabbet the back.

Third photo: Free cup of coffee to anyone who can tell me what is wrong with this photo. Strangely I remember saying to myself-- "now be sure to subtract two from that number."

Fourth: Final product. Threw a coat of primer on them before heading in tonite, per advice the other day to prevent showing of any movement. Thanks for that bit.

[Jay Jolliffe]

Center panel a wee bit long ?

[Randy Carver]

Long is *much* better than short...

[Jim Dunn]

Very nicely done even if there is a small problem with the 3rd pic. Did you use spaceballs in the gorves for the panels?

[Jim Becker]

Even with the feather boards, if you put slots in your jig that the clamps fit though, you can get them lower down on the panel. They can be just above the fence in that way. Clamping lower on the panel will help insure the workpiece stays flat against the jig down at the blade level.

Nice job on your panels and doors!

[Mike Buelow]

Very nicely done even if there is a small problem with the 3rd pic. Did you use spaceballs in the gorves for the panels?
Just a dry fit now, but yeah I'll probably snip some of my no slip/shelf protectors to use as spaceballs. My rabbets are a little shallow now and can't decide if I want it snug as it is now, or a bit more loose (and relying onthe spaceballs).

[David Tiell]

Nice little tutorial, and thanks for the tips. Save me from having to learn those myself! Also, how are you going to finish those doors? The panel is MDF, but if I'm seeing correctly, the rails and stiles have a nice little bit of figure to them. Staining them and painting the center?

[Bruce Wrenn]

Personally, I hate try to cut panels run vertically along fence of saw. I like the idea of building a sliding sled with the fence portion tilted to desired angle. Clamp panel to sled and cut away. Ten years later, if you need another panel, get out sled and cut another. Ian Irby showed this tech. in American Woodworker a few years back.

[John Grossi]

Mike, I am currently making a jig to make raised panels on my TS. You said you used RT to rabbet backs. I am new to this so please bear with me. What are we rabbeting? I picture slipping the panels into the slots on the rails and styles.

[Jim Becker]

Paul quite often the panel is thicker material and requires a back rabbet (also called back-cutting) in order to reduce the thickness of the edge that goes in the groove in the rails and stiles. This can be cut at the router table or at the table saw with a dado blade and a sacrificial fence.