Best Router For Router Stand?

[Stephen Tashiro]

I've been looking for a good router to leave in a router stand. One requirement would be that the shaft lock would be set by lever or slide that keeps the lock so I would not have to press the lock with one hand while I tried to use a wrench with the other. Another requirement would be an easy height adjustment. The typical collar that is threaded all the way around the body of the router is inconvenient for use upside down. I think that it would be better to have the kind that is set by a smaller nut that is on a bolt parallel to the body. One thing that wouldn't matter is an inconvenient off-on switch on the router since the off-on would controlled by the switch on the stand.

But is there such a router? I have an old Craftsman router on another stand that has the convenient shaft lock. I see routers in stores that have the desired height adjustmet. But I have never seen both features on the same router.

[glenn bradley]

I think your collet lock requirement will thin the heard immediately. I'm not aware of a router with this feature but then, I've never looked for it. I run a 3 1/2 HP Milwaukee 5625 which has power for days. electronic variable speed with feedback for consistent speed under load, above or below the table micro adjust and a dual-nut collet. As a 'production' router it has no dust control so an enclosed cabinet or a tolerant mind is a must.

The Freud 2 1/4 HP (the lowest HP I'd want to use in a table) is discussed a lot and has an auto-collar lock of some kind and a long collet shaft that makes changing bits above the table possible without a lift, I believe. It has a micro adjust feature. I just drop the motor out of my Mil as it's faster than winding the collet up through the table and is quick after you do it about the third time. As far as I know the dust collection on the Freud is also not there.

A lot of people here at the Creek swear by the Hitachi M12V. I'm sure you'll get a lot of response on this but you may just want to search the forum under 'router table' or just 'router'.

Enjoy!

P.s. Here's an example of searching under 'router table' -

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=47874&highlight=router+table

[scott spencer]

Stephen, I've got an MW5625 15 amp and a Freud FT1700 13 amp router that I pop in my table. The 5625 has more power and is a very good router, but it does require two wrench bit chances. The above table features on the 1700 trump the 5625's IMHO. The 1700 does have an auto collet lock when your raise it. It also has softstart, VS, above table height adjust, one handed one wrench above table bit changes, and above table height lock device. It was recently being offered with a free plunge base to sweeten the deal. It's not perfect but it's brought new capabilities to my router table.

http://www.epinions.com/FT1700 (http://www.epinions.com/content_228357738116)
http://www.epinions.com/MW5625 (http://www.epinions.com/content_245903494788)

[Dan Drager]

My vote goes to the Milwaukee 5625. I love mine.

[Randal Stevenson]

I went with the 5625 personally, but in both Europe, Canada, and Austraila, the Trition seems to be gathering a lot of popularity. My understanding is Freud is a copy of the mechanism.

Ray Girling (.com), is a member of another forum that I am a member of. He reviewed it first, out of that group, and wrote a review, and has a video. The video came after his reviews got enough attention, the company asked him to demo their stuff.
Woodcraft and Amazon are the only USA places I know to get it, and I have yet to see it at my local Woodcraft (don't get over there much though). You might call them and see if they have one, if you have a local one.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have the PC 7518 and it has never let me down. I have it in a PRL and love this config.

I have used a Triton at Woodcraft and to me it is kinda different. I used a big plunge version and it had the lock on the handle and even though it was nice I found myself always turning the knob instead of concentrating on the cut at hand. Maybe they have a new version by now.

They also make a Woodpecker 5625 PRL now which is very nice lift option for the 5625 owners.

[Mike Cutler]

Stephen.

I have a Porter Cable 8529 router that appears to meet your requirements. The router is mounted to an acrylic insert in the table. With depth adjustment through the top
53778

The Depth/Height adjustment is made using a 1/4" drive,5mm socket on an 1/4" drive extension.
53779

The router is pretty easy easy to access below the surface for the different controls,ON/OFF. bit height adjusment lock, and router collar lock.
53781

It's easiest to just pop the router up to change bits. The pin in the center locks the shaft, and it only takes one wrench to do the work.
53782

[Stephen Tashiro]

I've been using Sears router tables so I hadn't thought about a table where you could just pop the router off to change the bit. Is that a standard feature of custom tables? What holds the router on?

[Gary Curtis]

The current issue of one of the big WW magazines does a comparative test of routers suitable for in-table use. I was disappointed that the new Milwaukee 5616 didn't rate well with them. Sorry, I can't remember the name of the publication. It's on the stands now.

It has to collet lock so you must use 2 wrenches to change a bit. You must change the bit below the table (I think), and the power switch is annoyingly small. But, like many others, you can adjust bit height with a wrench from above the table. Purchasing an expensive router lift is a thing of the past.

Gary Curtis

[Mike Cutler]

I've been using Sears router tables so I hadn't thought about a table where you could just pop the router off to change the bit. Is that a standard feature of custom tables? What holds the router on?

Stephen.
The router is held in place simply by gravity/weight. There are three screws that attach the base to the plate. The acrylic router mounting plate fits into a routered recess in the table top that is exactly the same size and ceth as the rputer plate. For a more secure mount, the plate can also be screwed to the table.
I don't know that this is only a function of "custom router tables". I made my own router table, and this is one of the features that I incorporated. If the router bit has to be changed with the router mounted in the table, it's a pain in the buns.
My router table is 2'x 4'. I like them big. The store bought tables just aren't big enough for the things I seem to do.

[Ted Baca]

According to the latest Fine Woodworking review the Triton is. I have never heard of the brand but it has some great features.

[Julio Navarro]

The Hitachi m12 has a sliding lock. Its very quiet and has plenty of power and is eletronically speed variable.

[Randal Stevenson]

According to the latest Fine Woodworking review the Triton is. I have never heard of the brand but it has some great features.

What issue and page? Subscribers get them before their on newstands, and I was waiting, as it was on my Christmas list.

[Gary Curtis]

I just saw the magazine comparison on routers on the Finewoodworking website. Sorry, you might have to be signed up to view materials. And I don't remember what the printed issue was. Saw it last week on the newstand.

Gary Curtis

[David Kauffman]

The current issue of one of the big WW magazines does a comparative test of routers suitable for in-table use. I was disappointed that the new Milwaukee 5616 didn't rate well with them. Sorry, I can't remember the name of the publication. It's on the stands now.

It has to collet lock so you must use 2 wrenches to change a bit. You must change the bit below the table (I think), and the power switch is annoyingly small. But, like many others, you can adjust bit height with a wrench from above the table. Purchasing an expensive router lift is a thing of the past.

Gary Curtis
Gary I bought the Milwaukee 3 HP a year ago and stuck in in my Benchdog built into my cabinet base table. Been very happy with it, plenty of power, easy adjust either from the top as you say, or down below with that fine tune knob. As for the small start stop switch, I plug mine into an outlet I wired into my table (which also controls a vac attached to my table) and thus control both with a standard light switch, so I rarely touch the switch on the router body.

[Scott Vigder]

I use the M12V. It's relatively quiet, and has a great sliding mechanism for single-wrench bit changes. It's bullit proof.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

The router I have in mine is a Triton 3.25 HP half inch.

I don't use a raizer as it's got a nice height winder and fine tune height control and it does collet changes above the table and it's plenty powerful.
And of course it only cost me $190.00 show price.
If I had to pay more I'd have gone with another maker as the Triton is really not a very spophisticated router at all.

In fact it is so un unspohisticated, ungainly, and has so many flaws that I don't think there is a place in my shop for a Triton other than permanently in the table.
In that place I am very happy with it.

Mounted in the table it's better features shine brightly and you don't have the lesser or more flawed features bothering you at all. They just don't manifest.

I have wondered if they didn't intend all along that it'd be used in the table or by log cabin building rough carpenters who wanted a hand held shaper.

[Charles McCracken]

The Freud 2 1/4 HP ... As far as I know the dust collection on the Freud is also not there.

The dust chute was omitted from some early shipping models of the FT1700VCE routers (OOPS!) but is available at no charge from Freud to anyone who needs one.