Fresh Green Wood

[Burt Alcantara]

I just picked up some just felled honey locust logs that were ready to be hauled to the dump. The wood is about 30 minutes old. Darn if I don't have my lathe yet!!!

Since I can't do much other than to seal it, at what point is it not green?

If the lathe comes next week, can I rough out a few bowls (or a lot) for drying and turning later? Perhaps, the lathe will come in 2-3 weeks, what then?

I'm not even sure how to cut them. Most are about 8" wide with one double crotch piece close to 10". I'd like to make boxes too so any advise on cutting and storing is greatly appreciated!

Would it make any sense to cut the logs to ballpark bowl/boxe sizes and then seal them?

Thanks,
Burt

[Dennis Peacock]

Hey Burt,

No problem, just seal the log ends as best you can and then after the lathe gets in and you're all set for turning? Warm up the chainsaw and wack you some pieces for roughing out some bowls. It'll be plenty "green". ;)

[Gary DeWitt]

You can also cut box blanks now, since you are either going to want to dry them for some time before turning or rough out your boxes and then dry them for some time, so they don't warp after turning and have fit problems with the lids.
Just cut some logs a bit over length, rip them down the middle, and rip out your blanks. Once you have half logs, a bandsaw is convenient for cutting them up the rest of the way. If the wood is really good, you might want to cut up some of the scraps for pen blanks or finials.

[Burt Alcantara]

A few days ago I turned my first bowl in a class. It flew off the chuck 3 times, had 2 nasty catches and the final catch destroyed the bowl -- but it was great fun. The main use for this wood is for practicing.

I don't care if they warp, crack, split or are abducted by aliens. The reason the tree was felled was worm infestation. Most of the good logs are clean as far as I can tell but a lot of the smaller ones have heavily traveled roads right through some beautiful grain.

I doubt I will make anything worthwhile with this batch of lumber. Mistakes are the best teacher.

[John Hart]

Oh...I wouldn't count out that wormy stuff Burt. There are some beautiful pieces made from wormy wood....'specially if it has nice figure. Watch out for worm guts though!!:D (sorry Corey:o )

[Ron Journeau]

John, don't be ribbin' Corey, he still be dreaming of them wormy insides going airborne!!

[Richard Madison]

Faceshield!

[George Tokarev]

It's winter. Leave them alone and they'll be fine until spring. What's left can then be sawed or protected as required.

Bringing them into the shop will be a huge shock for them. Betting your shop is at 35% or so RH like mine is. What you rough you will want to protect from too rapid drying, just in case you want them later.

Stand out of the way when you cut. Easy enough to do if you push the gouge. Then cut above center, down and out on convex, below center up and in on concave to prevent catches. Keep the toolrest close to the work to give yourself the mechanical advantage that can turn a potential catch and toss into a mere gouge, and give you best pivoting tool control for delicate adjustments of cutting angles.

You'll know you're there when the shavings run down, around and out of the gouge rather than flying away. There will be almost no pressure on the tool from the piece, and you'll be able to advance your edge without forcing it - if it's reasonable sharp.