Beall Buff System

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ok got a question on the buffing system that was left under the tree for me. When a oil finish such as Antique Oil Finish is applied to the wood do you let it dry first or do you buff it right away??? Also when using like lacquer, Miniwax Tung Oil, Poly, Shellac, etc. how long do you let those dry before buffing?

[Jim Becker]

Let it cure for a few days...I wait at least a week, but longer is better, Bernie. Same for the other finishes. They really should fully cure before buffing for best results.

[Jim Stoppleworth]

What Jim Backer said "longer is better"
Just read in another thread, another forum, where a guy lets Waterlox dry for three weeks before buffing. Don't know if I'm that patient but I'm gonna give it a try.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

Finishes all have a longer "full cure" time than one might think. In fact, many of the problems that folks have with marking, blemishing and so forth are caused by not waiting long enough before putting something in use after finishing. Most finishes are "dry" to the touch in a few minutes to a few hours and can be "handled" in similar time frames, but they are NOT fully cured for some time. It can be as much as a month for some finishes.

[Mark Pruitt]

I Beall'd a bowl that I had finished with Danish Oil without waiting the recommended 72 hours. The result was a sticky surface. I let it sit for a few days, went back and buffed it again and alll was fine. I hate waiting but that's what I have to do to get it right.

[Dennis Peacock]

Hey Bernie,

Travis, Mark C. have been using the antique oil finish with very great results. PM one or both of them on their experiences. Their results have been extremely nice. I haven't been able to find any locally since the stores are out of stock right now on it. I guess Mark bought all they had. ;)

[Mike Ramsey]

The first couple of times that you use the wheels they will throw
fuzzies all over you....kinda tickles my mustache...but it gets
better after a couple of uses.

[Mark Cothren]

Dennis, as I done TOLD you...:)...Lowe's carries the Olympic brand and Whitt Davis in Greenbrier carries the Minwax brand. I have been using the Olympic brand, but picked up some Minwax and will be trying it out soon for comparison.

I'm also impatient when it comes to buffing out a finished piece. I can tell you from experience that the antique oil will buff out to a very nice finish in 24+ hours. I've gone back and buffed them again later and don't notice that they look any better.

Now that's not the case when using gel poly. My experience there is that I can buff a piece in 24+ hours and it will look good, but then I can go back later and rebuff and it will look somewhat better (most of the time).

Regular Watco takes much longer to cure out to where it will buff. Same for tung oil and BLO (which I rarely use any more).

And buffing lacquer requires a light touch or you'll buff the finish right off the piece... yes, I know this from experience.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bernie, I use Watco most of the time and wait at least 72 hours before buffing. Basically if I can still smell the Watco - I wait!

[Mark Cothren]

I'll also add that Travis is the one who put me onto the antique Danish oil finish. I don't think anybody that has seen his stuff on here would argue that it gives a nice finish...;)

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis, as I done TOLD you...:)...Lowe's carries the Olympic brand and Whitt Davis in Greenbrier carries the Minwax brand. I have been using the Olympic brand, but picked up some Minwax and will be trying it out soon for comparison.

I'm also impatient when it comes to buffing out a finished piece. I can tell you from experience that the antique oil will buff out to a very nice finish in 24+ hours. I've gone back and buffed them again later and don't notice that they look any better.

Now that's not the case when using gel poly. My experience there is that I can buff a piece in 24+ hours and it will look good, but then I can go back later and rebuff and it will look somewhat better (most of the time).

Regular Watco takes much longer to cure out to where it will buff. Same for tung oil and BLO (which I rarely use any more).

And buffing lacquer requires a light touch or you'll buff the finish right off the piece... yes, I know this from experience.

WELL!!! I went by Lowes and HD and both are out until after the first of the year. Greenbrier is just "so far" to drive ya know. :rolleyes: :p :D

I'll get some next week or so for sure. Thanks for the reminder about Whitt Davis. :D

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks I appreciate the info. Mark I got some of the Olympic Antique Danish Oil finish from Lowe's today. Will give it a try when I get home. Thanks again.

[Travis Stinson]

Yup, the Minwax Antique oil is now my 1st choice for an oil finish. 2 coats in a day and can buff the next day, I love the stuff. :D

[Jim Becker]

I've also used the Minwax Antique Oil Finish on turnings...it's one of the only Minwax products I like...but only for that application. It "pushes" nicely on the lathe, too, so you can get several applications on the piece in a relatively short period of time.

[Mark Cothren]

How many coats do you guys use (Travis says he uses 2)? Do you find it works better on some flavors of wood than others?

[Jim Becker]

Mark, when I've use the oil-varnish, I tend to put on a bunch of light applications, using friction to "push" the finish on the lathe. I use soft paper shop towels for both application and the "push", which is kinda like "buffing" it into the surface. The friction from that causes heat which helps the finish soak in nicely as well as start to cure. It's worked nicely that way for me, but there are a lot of different ways to accomplish the end!