Bob Opsitos
12-28-2006, 11:11 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v705/ropsitos/Dec2006024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v705/ropsitos/Dec2006026.jpg
The cabinet's actually been finished and installed for a while, I just finally got around to mounting the knob and the glass while I was on vacation. It's now picture worthy. However, the pictures are not the best as the digicam is on the fritz.
The design came out of an issue of Workbench magazine, which I modified for the size I had (magazine was floor to celing and I was putting mine over the toliet). The cabinet is recessed into the wall so you end up with a fairly deep cabinet (~4") with minimal protrusion from the wall (~1-1/2").
Solid maple base and face frame with plywood back; base peices and face frame joined with pocket hole screws since any joinery is completly hidden.
Doors are curly maple with rail & stile construction in Shaker style (meaning inner profile of the doors are slightly beveled) which match the existing cabinets. Upper doors are glued up with the standard stub tenons that the bit set produces and rabbeted out on the inside for 1/8" glass. Glass held in with some bronze screw down hardware from woodcraft.
Lower doors are in the same style, but with a solid wood panel bookmatched from some Tulipwood that the wife was enamored with. Since it was a solid wood panel, everything I read said the standard stub tenon that the bits would make wouldn't make it over the long haul. So I cut mortises in both the rail & stiles for floating tenons.
The maple was finised with BLO/shellac/wipe-on poly. BLO for some color, the shellac for it's moisture resistence and poly for durability. Another reason for the shellac was my slowness in assembling the parts. Being able to get some finish on the parts quickly while I work on other parts made me feel better about staving off any warpage. Not sure how valid it really is though. The panels were shellac and poly.
This was first time making doors on the router table and my first time resawing and bookmatching panels. I think it turned out well, though I know where to look to see mistakes. I consider them learnings and know to look out for them next time.
Honestly it's a pretty easy project, including the install (cutting an big hole in the drywall and framing in some new studs) and it gave us some needed space.
Thanks for looking
Bob
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v705/ropsitos/Dec2006026.jpg
The cabinet's actually been finished and installed for a while, I just finally got around to mounting the knob and the glass while I was on vacation. It's now picture worthy. However, the pictures are not the best as the digicam is on the fritz.
The design came out of an issue of Workbench magazine, which I modified for the size I had (magazine was floor to celing and I was putting mine over the toliet). The cabinet is recessed into the wall so you end up with a fairly deep cabinet (~4") with minimal protrusion from the wall (~1-1/2").
Solid maple base and face frame with plywood back; base peices and face frame joined with pocket hole screws since any joinery is completly hidden.
Doors are curly maple with rail & stile construction in Shaker style (meaning inner profile of the doors are slightly beveled) which match the existing cabinets. Upper doors are glued up with the standard stub tenons that the bit set produces and rabbeted out on the inside for 1/8" glass. Glass held in with some bronze screw down hardware from woodcraft.
Lower doors are in the same style, but with a solid wood panel bookmatched from some Tulipwood that the wife was enamored with. Since it was a solid wood panel, everything I read said the standard stub tenon that the bits would make wouldn't make it over the long haul. So I cut mortises in both the rail & stiles for floating tenons.
The maple was finised with BLO/shellac/wipe-on poly. BLO for some color, the shellac for it's moisture resistence and poly for durability. Another reason for the shellac was my slowness in assembling the parts. Being able to get some finish on the parts quickly while I work on other parts made me feel better about staving off any warpage. Not sure how valid it really is though. The panels were shellac and poly.
This was first time making doors on the router table and my first time resawing and bookmatching panels. I think it turned out well, though I know where to look to see mistakes. I consider them learnings and know to look out for them next time.
Honestly it's a pretty easy project, including the install (cutting an big hole in the drywall and framing in some new studs) and it gave us some needed space.
Thanks for looking
Bob