DNA Question>>>>>>

[Christopher Hunter]

Has anyone tried to dna a solid blank ---
Let's say I want to make something that doesn't require hollowing at all but I would like to use a great looking piece of green wood>>
Would it be possible to dry a solid bowl-type blank using the DNA process -- will it dry quickly?
will it dry at all?
and if so what procedure should I use for it (paper bag?)...
just curious>>>>
thanks for any help
--Chris

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Christopher I'm no expert but I believe a whole blank may be too thick for the DNA process. Generally you want about a 1" thickness or so to get good even drying. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will speak up. :)

[Jim Ketron]

I have dried pen blanks 1x1 sq and it works good. but I think anything over an inch and the DNA will not penetrate unless its left in there for an extended period of time.
For an example I turned two 17" bowls and I roughed them out to about 1 3/4" thick. I think I soaked them for at least 4-5 days each and they dried nicely.
I think this method works best to rough turn the item first leaving it thicker than the finish size you want to allow for warping and drying then, re-turn and true the blank back up and get it to the finish size you want.

Can you give us a size of the blank your wanting to DNA dry it might help us give you a better answer?

[Christopher Hunter]

well my thought is to make some small things like weed pots and confetti lamps but I don't want to buy blanks cause I have plenty at home and the grain patterns on some of them are great....
and I do not want the turnings to distort ---
any ideas ??

[Jim Ketron]

Yes!
Turn them slightly larger than the finish size drill a smaller hole to depth that you want. DNA them suckers for at least 24 hrs or longer and wrap the outside with paper leave the hole open for air, let them dry for a few weeks in the paper then let then dry for a few more weeks with the paper off. finish turning them to the size you want, drill your hole to the correct size and finish.
This is how I do my hollow forms and my confetti lamps.;)

[George Tokarev]

The alcohol will be just as effective in limiting distortion as air drying, especially in the block. Wood contracts as illustrated in fig 3-3 of http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/ch03.pdf depending on the orientation of the grain and the species of wood. Cutting the shape in advance, and thinner, will allow the release of some stored tension as you turn, so you may notice a touch less total distortion.

My preference is to rough cylinders and lightly coat to limit end checks. You can check the difference in contraction of face and quarter grain with calipers as a fair estimate of how dry they are. It does take several months to work down to a reasonable moisture level on a 4-6" diameter piece, even if you trim close to final length to maximize drying rate.

Save the alcohol to mix shellac.

[John Hart]

To answer your original question Chris
Has anyone tried to dna a solid blank

Yes...I did. A 6X6X8 piece of cherry. Soaked it for more than 2 days and let it dry for about a week. When I turned it, it was like I didn't do anything.