Table saw specs

[michael tessler]

I am fine tuning my new table saw. (Delta Uni 36-800) The miter gage slots and the blade are 0.003" out of parallel. Is this sufficiently close enough, or should I try to get closer?

Thanks

Mike

[Gary Keedwell]

Just wondering...did you spin the blade and run the indicator at different places on the blade? Also, did you try more then one blade? You might get different readings on different blades.

Gary K.

[glenn bradley]

If you're fine tuning, I'd put as much effort into it as you want. I shoot for .001 and that's a hybrid. The cabinet mounted trunnions make it pretty easy, I'd go for it. You know you can always get back to .003 so, no harm. I would try other blades and be sure to mark the tooth and measure to the same tooth each time. Trying to get your saw to .001 with a .003 blade could waste your time. Enjoy.

[michael tessler]

I am using a MasterGage MP-1 Masterplate, with the Superbar/dial indicator.

[Jim Becker]

.003 is pretty darn good. If you want to, you can keep tweeking and may be able to get it even closer since it's a cabinet saw. Keep the table bolts pretty snug and get used to some VERY gentle tapping with a rubber mallet. One suggestion, even though you are using the MasterPlate, flip it's orientation and check again just in case it's not perfectly flat for some reason. It's supposed to be, but... ;)

[Joe Trotter]

If you're fine tuning, I'd put as much effort into it as you want. I shoot for .001 and that's a hybrid. The cabinet mounted trunnions make it pretty easy, I'd go for it. You know you can always get back to .003 so, no harm. I would try other blades and be sure to mark the tooth and measure to the same tooth each time. Trying to get your saw to .001 with a .003 blade could waste your time. Enjoy.

Glenn,
Could you explain what a trunnion is? I have seen this in several posts. It appears the cabinet mounted is best?

As near I can tell it is a mount for the raising/lowering of the blade?

Thanks, Joe

[Jim Becker]

Joe, the "trunnion" is the heavy assembly that the blade arbor and other mechanisms are mounted to. The more massive it is, the less prone to vibration and needed adjustment it will be...theoretically.

"Cabinet Saws" have the trunnion mounted to the cabinet and the saw table bolts to that, generally with four screws (and appropriate shims) in the corners. This format is easier to adjust for alignment of blade to miter slot because you're just moving the table. The shims I mentioned are used to adjust the plane of the top so that the blade stays aligned when it's heeled over to 45º for bevel cuts...that's a factory adjustment.


"Contractors' Style Saws" generally have the trunnion mounted to the bottom of the table and are lighter in weight than those in cabinet saws. They are a bit harder to adjust for alignment because there are more "moving parts" as well as the additional stresses that a motor hanging off the back of the machine brings. But they are practical and work well.

"Hybrid" saws are just that...they have some features of a cabinet saw (motor in the cabinet) and some features of a contractors' style saw. (lighter weight and sometimes trunnions mounted to the top)

The bottom line is that the trunnion is the business portion of the saw and is what makes the saw tick. The better the trunnion design, the better the saw, both in smoothness and in accuracy that sticks.

[Joe Trotter]

Thanks Jim,
I missed the e-mail reply on this one.

I wasnt aware of all the styles. I have much to absorb.

Joe