Board Buddies for the Table Saw - Review

[Roy Wall]

I've had these guys for about a month or so now and have really found them useful.

The Buddies are mounted on top of the Fence and are adjustable for board thicknesses. Usually, I put them so they are about 1/4 - 3/8" below the thickness of the stock. This allows them to put pressure on the boards - BOTH AGAINST THE CI TOP AND INWARD TOWARD THE FENCE! This makes the cuts Accurate and Safe. The boards cannot raise up to catch the top of the blade and cause kickback. The wheels are rubber and will only rotate clockwise......this prevents the board from coming back at you.

Installation: I suggest you use a MiniTrack or T-Track type of system bolted on the rip fence. This allows you to slide the wheels where they are needed and easy to take off/on. You'll need to mount the Buddies using 1" stock on top of the Bies Type Fence. I rigged up some 3/4" BB on top of a 1/4" thick piece of ply. I tapped the fence in 4 spots with an 1/8TH inch bit and then used self tapping screws from the Borg. I used the MiniTrack so it was recessed in a 3/8" dado to mount FLUSH with the wooden top. This is important (IMHO) so the base of the buddies won't flex back due to the pressure of the springs.

Next, Mount each buddy to the phenolic bases. this gives you the flexibility of sliding them to various positions along the fence. I had to cut the front thumb bolts back about a 1/4 inch so they would "clear" the tightening knobs that slide along the Mini track.

The Buddies are milled within a Dovetail track so they can slide about 4" total either toward the fence (for tight-thin rips) or farther out for general ripping.

The rear board buddie is used the most. It's a good feeling to have the lead edge of the board run under the wheel....you know it is staying down.

For precise groove work....I used the front wheel also. THis gives precision to the depth of cut and from the referenced edge. I've enclosed some photos when cutting drawer fronts, backs, and sides.... and then cutting the groove in them to hold the drawer bottom.

Here are some photos - (to be continued)

[Roy Wall]

More photos......

[Roy Wall]

The one thing I didn't consider was how well these helped feed larger sheets of Ply thru the saw! I've staged some shots with a thinner sheet I needed to rip to 14 3/4"....just a touch. I helped my nephews rip some full sheets last week and it was nice to have the front wheel grab over the board and keep it tight to the fence when I was way back away from the saw. As I worked forward, the ply went under the rear wheel and it was nice a secure..... a great way to handle larger stock!

Mark Singer has spoken highly of these and I agree they 1) increase safety and 2) increase accuracy. I use them all the time now.

They are about $70 for the Yellow Buddies (TS), the T track, and the phenolic bases. Available most everywhere!

Last photos....

[Jim Becker]

Where I always found these wheel systems useful is when working with larger chunks of sheet goods that require you to stand far away from the fence. Because of the force they exert down and towards the fence, they really help keep the material running true through the cut. This should also be the case when trying to do a "glue line rip" on a table saw as they will help reduce or eliminate the "hand-action disconnect" as you move the materal through the cut.

[Noah Katz]

Does the additional friction from they apply noticeably increase the effort required to push the stock through?

Also, what are the phenolic bases you're referring to? I've got some BB's still in the box awaiting a new saw, and they're all metal.

Thanks

[Joe Jensen]

Roy, looks like you have a SawStop saw. Do you have to do something to hold the back of the fence down on the saw top? I've always had a Biesemeyer fence and assumed that the board buddies didn't work with that type fence. I have a SawStop now.

joe

[Mark Singer]

That is a great review and I have been using them for 10 years and would not be without them. Accuracy is great....it pulls material down and alo toward the fence. Dados are even all the way through. Kick back is completely eliminated. You can leave a board in the saw with it running and walk around and pull it through... It works better than a spliter or even a riving knife , IMHO...and it can be added to almost any saw. They quickly become your buddies:rolleyes:

[Richard Kagen]

I used the yellow BB for years on my old saw for cutting sheet goods. I always used a wooden screw clamp to hold down the far end of the fence as the BB raise the fence end whcih causes no end of trouble, especially on 1/4 plywood. I was surprised that I am confronted by the same shortcomoing on my new saw with the Beismeyer fence. Anyone know of a purchased or shop made upgrade that hold the far end down?

[Ed Bamba]

Roy, thanks for sharing this with us. I too have the BB, along with a Bies fence, but have yet to install them. I bought mine used off of ebay and it came with the optional BB track system. Is there a reason you decided to forego the use of the optional track? When I place the track on top of the Bies fence, it appears that there is sufficient BB-to-fence clearance. Just wondering. The only thing holding me back from installing mine is the type of fasteners to use. Are self-tapping screws strong enough to hold everything down in a kick back situation? Would a machine screw be stronger or more reliable?

Thanks, Ed

[Al Willits]

Joe brings up a good question, with the Beismeyer fence (least the one I have) it is only anchored on one end, I could see using a clamp on the other end, least I could until I started to build the TS extension off the back.
So what do you do in that case??

Thanks for posting this, I've been looking at them.

Al

[Mark Singer]

I had the Beis fence on my PM 66 and now I have the Beis / SawStop clone on my SawStop and there is no problem with the fence lifting up. I typically only use the rear one behind the blade . I set the BB wheel about 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the stock thickness that creates enough downward force to keep the work piece from kicking back since the wheels only spin one way. It also keeps the work against the fence making cuts more accurate. For rabets and dados I run both Board Buddies....one in front of the blade and one behind.

[Roy Wall]

Does the additional friction from they apply noticeably increase the effort required to push the stock through?

Also, what are the phenolic bases you're referring to? I've got some BB's still in the box awaiting a new saw, and they're all metal.

Thanks

Noah -

Yes, you do feel the wheel and perhaps some more pressure when first starting out. I ran some practice boards under and through both wheels and using only the rear wheel several times with the saw OFF. After a while, you know WHAT TO FEEL FOR.....so it's no surprise. I adjusted the pressure of the wheels, position distance from the fence...all sorts of stuff before using them "Live".

I purchased my BB's from Peachtree Woodworking in GA. You are correct the BB's themselves are metal. Peachtree supplies a set of two phenolic / plastic bases for the BB's to attach. These bases have a 1/4-20 bolt with knob predrilled in a corner.........it is this bolt that you slide in & out of the mini track to position. The only thing I didn't like was having to trim one of the front thumb screws so it would "clear" the black knob of the phenolic base.....a little awkward. I've enclosed new photos to show this.

Also, some shots of the track install. Notice I only got 2' of Mini Track:o ...it should run the distance of the entire Fence..IMO....I'll have to get some more!

Now - If they make a base a little larger to match up with regular T-track that may be better.....so you won't have to trim the thumb bolt....although not a biggee. The base comes with a positoning template to register the four holes in the metal base of the Buddies.

Lastly, I guess you could "directly" bolt the T Track to the Bies Fence.....but I'd add some 3/8" ply (to match Mini Track) next to the track for added support/leverage. The directions say to use a 1" board and cut a dado out to hold the track. THis is to give "clearance" of the wheels up and over the Bies Fence....you want the wheels to just touch the CI TOP at its "limit" in case you are ripping 1/4" ply, etc.....

Here are some more detail photos......

[Jim Becker]

Like Mark, I never have experienced any problem with "fence lift" when using the wheels with the XActa fence on the Jet saw. (Biesemeyer clone) If the fence is lifting more than a "skoosh", there is something not adjusted right, IMHO...either the fence or on the wheel system. You don't need a gazzillion lbs of down-pressure for the device to work properly.

[Roy Wall]

Roy, looks like you have a SawStop saw. Do you have to do something to hold the back of the fence down on the saw top? I've always had a Biesemeyer fence and assumed that the board buddies didn't work with that type fence. I have a SawStop now.

joe

Joe,

Like Mark says......there is no problem with the fence raising up. The BB's do not put a ton of pressure on the boards...but are sufficient. The upper spring is adjustable in tension and the amount of pressure applied downward / inward.

I've used my Sawstop for a year + half now....and I really had to work at keeping the stock tight against the fence due to operator flaws:o . This system really keeps the stock tight and increases accuracy.

As you know, with the Riving Knife...I suppose it was virtually impossible for kickback.......Now with the BUddies...It's even safer!! But the main reason for getting them was for the ACCURACY.

You can even get half way through a long cut - stop - walk around the saw - and then pull it on through with complete safety and accuracy.

[Roy Wall]

One last shot of the mechanism:


Notice the wheel position is adjustable using the long thread and stop nut (lower left)

Next the wheel is raised and lowered by the lower right hand bolt - to get it adjusted for thickness of stock.

Lastly, the upper spring with wing nut for tension / pressure adjustments..

[Brian Knop]

I would like to try them but unfortunately I have a unifence.

[Mark Singer]

I would like to try them but unfortunately I have a unifence.

I am pretty sure it works with the UniFence...check with Peach Tree woodworking. BB will raise the level of accuracy.

[Jim Becker]

I would like to try them but unfortunately I have a unifence.
There is an alternative fence available (http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm) for UniFence users that accomodates jigs like this. Just slide off the OEM fence and slide on the auxiliary fence. In fact, if you click on the link I supplied in the first sentence of this post and scroll down, you'll see a drawing of the Board Buddies... ;) ...and the available mount if you don't want to "roll your own".

[John Bush]

Hi Roy,
Thanks for the review of the BB. They are now on my list. I noticed your blade guard with the DC attached. Is that a SawStop option or other vendor, and what is the daimeter if the hose? Does the weight of the hose affect the function of either of the joints of the guard? I bought an extra guard but haven't come up with a design for the setup yet and this looks like a simple solution. Thanks, John.

[Dennis Peacock]

Excellent review Roy....Now they are on my list of things to get. Maybe on next years Christmas list. :D

[Bill White]

I have used 'em on my RAS for years. Have the yellow, green, and orange. Got all so I can use them for multiple operations. Money well spent in my mind (such as it is ).
Bill

[Noah Katz]

"You can even get half way through a long cut - stop - walk around the saw - and then pull it on through with complete safety and accuracy."

Interesting...maybe I should reconsider the need for an outfeed table - if the stock can be handled well enough to get it onto the saw and the cut started, it ought to be easy enough to pull through from the back.

Thoughts?

[Roy Wall]

"You can even get half way through a long cut - stop - walk around the saw - and then pull it on through with complete safety and accuracy."

Interesting...maybe I should reconsider the need for an outfeed table - if the stock can be handled well enough to get it onto the saw and the cut started, it ought to be easy enough to pull through from the back.

Thoughts?

Well, I have a short outfeed table. It extends out about a foot - then has a hinge...and hangs down to the floor when not in use. I believe the hinged portion is 30 inches or so......giving 42" approx. total outfeed. I think a minumum setup like mine is fairly essential. This length has been adequate for up to 8' long boards no problem.

[Roy Wall]

Hi Roy,
Thanks for the review of the BB. They are now on my list. I noticed your blade guard with the DC attached. Is that a SawStop option or other vendor, and what is the daimeter if the hose? Does the weight of the hose affect the function of either of the joints of the guard? I bought an extra guard but haven't come up with a design for the setup yet and this looks like a simple solution. Thanks, John.

John,

I've have had quite a few creekers inquire about my Sawstop blade guard DC setup......

I'll start a new thread tonight with all sorts of photos and details....it has been very good!

[Mike Heidrick]

There is an alternative fence available (http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm) for UniFence users that accomodates jigs like this. Just slide off the OEM fence and slide on the auxiliary fence. In fact, if you click on the link I supplied in the first sentence of this post and scroll down, you'll see a drawing of the Board Buddies... ;) ...and the available mount if you don't want to "roll your own".

SO I had these on my unifence. You can see the mounts for them on the first picture. The mount was attached to a hardwood face that I left on the fence as I never rotated that fence body. I also made a BigaFence for the other fence, here is one shown in picture two. Search for Bigafence on google and you will find his site. I always wanted the UniTFence but after making the bigafence wich was free I did not need it.

[Mike Heidrick]

I want to talk more about how to attach the BBs to the bies. A member asked if it is enough to just tap the fence with a self drilling screw. What do people recommend for the Bies designs? I have the aluminum track they well with the BBs. I have not tried to attach it to my Sawstop yet. Any advice?

[Roy Wall]

I want to talk more about how to attach the BBs to the bies. A member asked if it is enough to just tap the fence with a self drilling screw. What do people recommend for the Bies designs? I have the aluminum track they well with the BBs. I have not tried to attach it to my Sawstop yet. Any advice?

Mike -

I don't think you should permanently attach them to the fence...My Opinion only...

I attached the wooden platform (that houses the mini track) to the SS fence with 4 #10 x1.5" long self tapping machine screws....I drilled four 1/8th inch pilot holes first - then screwed in the self tapping bolts to secure the track/wood platform.

[David Marcus Brown]

Can you use the BB's on a bandsaw when resawing to keep your lumber against the fence and apply constant pressure? Is it worth the effort?

Sometimes when I'm resawing and reposition my guide hand, the wood will move away from the fence a bit and that's just more wood I have to waste to remove that divot.

[Richard Kagen]

Sounds like the self tapping should work, but when I mounted my bb's to my Jet fence, I drilled two 1/4 holes then I slid a piece of oak with "t" nuts installed on the bottom and a couple of piece of foam tape on the top inside the fence. Once I pulled it together with some hex/caps screws the oak board (piece of old flooring) stuck to the inside top of the fence extrusion and has been there for a couple of years. It was quick and easy to repostion the board that had the bb's attached to the fence with a couple of spins of the allen wrench.

I made a similar set up to mount the bb's on my router table when I need to put a 60degree bevel on 2000 feet of 1/4 birch plywood "planks." In that case, I drilled the MDF fence and inserted some square nuts. I used the same board mounted bb's and could switch them back and forth beween tb and router table as I ripped and edge treated 16 sheets of 1/4 plywood into 5 3/4 inch planks.

[Noah Katz]

"I think a minumum setup like mine is fairly essential. This length has been adequate for up to 8' long boards no problem."

My question is why is an outfeed table is needed any more than an infeed table.

W/o BB's, the answer is that it's way too easy to rotate the stock and mess up the cut, but it seems they address that.

Thanks

[Mark Singer]

Can you use the BB's on a bandsaw when resawing to keep your lumber against the fence and apply constant pressure? Is it worth the effort?

Sometimes when I'm resawing and reposition my guide hand, the wood will move away from the fence a bit and that's just more wood I have to waste to remove that divot.

I use the Grip Tight magnetic feather boards...

http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0000223VF.01.PT01._SS400_SCLZZZZZZZ_V1056652630_. jpg

[Rob Blaustein]

I've been using the Grip Tites in conjuction with their steel fence attachment pretty much in the same way that the BBs are used. Mark, I see you have the Grip Tites too--have you ever used them on the TS that way? My only complaint is that the handles extend fairly far and it makes it hard to use my overarm guard when ripping narrower pieces; looks like the board buddies don't extend as far so they might get in the way less. The Grip Tites also take a bit of practice positioning them.

[Al Willits]

Well, I had thought of getting the buddies, then talked myself out of them, and then ended up putting the decision on the back burner, till now.

I had Beasty read this topic and she said, see....I told you to get them....:)
So with her blessing...

I bought them and the rail that Woodcraft sells, and will install them this weekend.

Little concerned with the Beis fence I have and the thickness or lack of that the fence is made out of, is this strong enough to use the self drilling screws I have and not pull out?
I also was thinking of attaching the rail to the side rails of the fence and was thinking that would be easier to repair should it need be.

Any thoughts on mounting it?
tia

Al

[Jim Becker]

Al, the steel on the top of the fence is more than up to the task...but do consider something like Jim Tolpin's fence system in "Tablesaw Magic" for versatility. You can mount the BBs and a whole lot of other things that way. The Jet LT cabinet saw I have in the classifieds is set up that way and it's been great.

[Mike Heidrick]

Put up some pictures of the rail that you can buy for the board buddies. Looks like it will stand above the SawStops fence face just fine and I am sure it will work with any Bies style fence as well. This is also what I had mounted to the hardwood fence face that was added to my Unifence when I had it. I am thinking about devising a rare earth magnet piece that works with this BB rail. Then it could just be placed on my fence top without drilling it for the screws.

[Mark Singer]

I've been using the Grip Tites in conjuction with their steel fence attachment pretty much in the same way that the BBs are used. Mark, I see you have the Grip Tites too--have you ever used them on the TS that way? My only complaint is that the handles extend fairly far and it makes it hard to use my overarm guard when ripping narrower pieces; looks like the board buddies don't extend as far so they might get in the way less. The Grip Tites also take a bit of practice positioning them.

The Grip Tites are great for resawing at the bandsaw and occasionally at the jointer to insure the board stays agaist the fence. At the cabinet saw I sometimes use them as a feather board...but rarely. They do not begin to add the safety and accuracy of the Board Buddies at the cabinet saw. My BB stay on for almost every cut and elevate the quality of each cut and the safety. Once a small board is under the yellow wheel it is not coming back and it is pushed tight against the fence....its the way to go as I have been saying for years now! Finally other are trying them and agree.

[Mark Singer]

My Board Buddy set up...1/2" FILL piece is screwed with 1/4" X 20 machine screws to fence top metal tube. Then track is mounted with wood screws and Board Buddy phenolic bases from PeachTree slide in with BB mouted to them. It looks a bit like Roys ....maybe cause he looked at my pics when he installed his...:rolleyes:

[Eric Shields]

Roy,

Great review, thanks for sharing. Yet another item to add to my, "after I get my shop complete," wish list.

Eric

[Mark Pruitt]

Roy,
I'm glad you found these devices useful. That was not my case. In fact, on one occasion I used them to rip a piece about 1.5" wide and the board twisted on me. There may have been other factors at play, but that taught me to be leary. I found little other use for them; other than holding plywood against the fence which I would rather do by hand while using adequate roller stand support.

I gave my BB's away when I sold my contractor saw.

[John Petsche]

Great board buddy review and installation pics, awesome. Thanks.