New Fuji Q4

[Mac Cambra]

Guys,

I am about to take my Fuji Q4 Pro out for its maiden voyage. I am looking for advice because the manual that came with the system kind of stinks to put it mildly. The project I will be spraying is a hard maple cradle with Target USL. I haven't tested the USL viscosity but my expectation is that it will not need thinning? Also I will be using the #4 tip, should I use the #3?

Also I was thinking about applying a coat of BLO prior to the USL, any words about the value of this step? If there isn't a real noticable difference I like to skip it if possible.

Finally if the are other tried and true finish"recipes" for hard maple I'd love to hear them. Also any comments about using the Q4 to its best advantage would also be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mac

[Jim Becker]

I spray TC USL straight from the can with my Wagner HVLP conversion gun using the #3 projector set that is standard with that gun. The best recommendation I can give you is to do some trial spray work, starting with water and then by sacrificing some finish so you can fine tune the settings of your gun to get the best results with the USL. (And document those settings for future use)

If you are going to use BLO under USL, you must either let it fully cure for a couple weeks or use a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac. (super blond for the least color shift on your maple) As always...do tests on scrap from your project to get things the way you want them BEFORE you commit to the real project.

[Al Navas]

... The project I will be spraying is a hard maple cradle with Target USL. I haven't tested the USL viscosity but my expectation is that it will not need thinning? Also I will be using the #4 tip, should I use the #3?

Also I was thinking about applying a coat of BLO prior to the USL, any words about the value of this step? If there isn't a real noticable difference I like to skip it if possible...
Mac,

I wonder why you wish to use the BLO prior to the USL. Maybe I am missing something, but I never consider it for something I will finish with USL. Dewaxed waterborne shellac will be fine, and you will be able to finish much quicker.

I have the Q3, not the Q4. Congratulations on the Q4, as it should prove more versatile than mine. I suggest the following, based on my experience with the Q3:

Normally you can spray the USL right from the can, without adding any water or flow conditioner.
Normally the #3 tip is the one recommended to spray shellac, and the #4 to spray the lacquer. But I find that the #3 gives much better control and the atomization that I want to get a nice, smooth finish.
The key to spraying (with the Q3) with the turbine machines is to stay close to the surface being sprayed, to avoid orange peel caused by the fluid essentially drying prior to hitting the surface. The fluid must remain liquid, to "burn in" into the finish already on the surface of the work piece.
Use the 8-foot high flex extension hose, as it allows for some cooling of the air prior to hitting the spray gun.
Practice spraying onto large cardboard pieces, or onto construction paper (found at either Lowe's or Home Depot). I bought a large roll of this paper for a reasonable price, and keep it on hand to tape onto the "back wall" of the spray booth I fashioned with foam insulation in front of the exhaust blower. See the photo below.
The more you practice the better prepared you will be to respont to changes required to solve spraying issues.
The thread where I posted about the "booth" in our finishing room is located here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40466&highlight=spray+booth) .
ENJOY!Al


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/Sandal_Woods/Shop%20Tools/Finishingroom-spraybooth-1.jpg

[Mac Cambra]

Guys - thanks for the inputs.

I was thinking of using BLO as a pre-coating to enhance the figure of the wood, but I don't have weeks to wait for it to cure, plus I was concerned about toxicity potential as well. My niece is expecting sometime around the end of January. Thanks Jim you probably saved me some trouble.

Al - I ordered the #3 tip last night just to be prepared and I have the whip extension hose and the small cups, like you show in your photograph. Changing out the tips hopefully isn't that difficult, I haven't had a chance to review the gun manual in detail but the exploded view of the gun assembly looked complicated.

I am really pleased that you have had good experiences with your Q3, I have read generally very positive reviews about these systems and I was able to purchase mine through Amazon for a little over $600, I couldn't pass it up.

I think your spray booth idea is very clever especially since it appears collapsable, my shop is simply a 2 car garage so space is at a premium. I am just a hobbyist and do this for fun, however I do think an intervention will be required to help me with my tool addiction :D .

I will practice spraying, again good suggestions with the craft paper. I really hope the finish quality will be a noticable upgrade over what is possible with a brush or wipe on.

Anyway thanks,

Mac

[Jim Summers]

Excellent spray booth, in the photo above. I followed the link and noticed you have an explosion proof motor.

I have searched around and am only seeing the motors alone for usually over $500!! So I have to be looking in the wrong place. I wonder if there possibly a box fan that has a explosion-proof motor that could be modified to work?

Many Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

I was thinking of using BLO as a pre-coating to enhance the figure of the wood, but I don't have weeks to wait for it to cure, plus I was concerned about toxicity potential as well. My niece is expecting sometime around the end of January. Thanks Jim you probably saved me some trouble.

1) No toxicity issues. All finishes sold today are completely safe when cured. BLO is just linseed oil with some metalic dryers...you don't want to drink it out of the can due to the dryers, but otherwise it's safe.

2) You can seal coat with the shellac after a couple days. In fact, you can actually do it same day based on a technique shown by Jeff Jewitt in a recent issue of FW. (I tried that on the base of my recent tiger maple candle stand and it worked nicely)

Use the oil if you want the look that the oil imparts and then just use the super blond shellac to seal it before moving on to the USL. (It will also give you the opportunity to spray shellac if you choose) The finish is a make-or-break step in your project...use the schedule that best suits your needs.

[Al Navas]

Excellent spray booth, in the photo above. I followed the link and noticed you have an explosion proof motor.

I have searched around and am only seeing the motors alone for usually over $500!! So I have to be looking in the wrong place. I wonder if there possibly a box fan that has a explosion-proof motor that could be modified to work?

Many Thanks.
The motor came from Grainger's, and it was in the price range you mention. I truly don't know of a proper alternative to the explosion-proof motor, Jim. I hope that others will be able to provide suitable information.

When using waterborne finishes, many people have used a simple window fan behind a temporary / collapsible spray booth, such as the one Jeff Jewitt shows in one of his books.

I spray ONLY waterborne finishes, but still felt that I needed this type of motor, as I apply some finishes like Waterlox by hand. It is nice to not have to worry too much about a hazard if I don't have to.


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[Al Navas]

... Al - I ordered the #3 tip last night just to be prepared and I have the whip extension hose and the small cups, like you show in your photograph. Changing out the tips hopefully isn't that difficult, I haven't had a chance to review the gun manual in detail but the exploded view of the gun assembly looked complicated....
Changing the tip is a breeze, Mac. The tip consists of two parts, the actual air cap, and its matching tip. Don't mix these, and always keep them as a matched pair.

One thing I forgot to mention: Either build or buy a small turntable that allows you to rotate the work piece without you getting in the middle of the air flow. Using such a turntable will allow you to stay stationary relative to the booth, while maintaining the flow into the exhaust fan. On the photo above I show the little turntable we got at a garage sale for around $5, as I recall.

Please let us know if you need help with anything on the gun.


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[Jay Evans]

Hi Mac,

I also just bought a Q4 from Amazon, and in looking for parts and information found this site....http://www.phelpsrefinishing.com/fuji.html ....I have bought some accessories and a gravity conversion kit from Roger Phelps and paid with Paypal. The service was excellent. If you look around on his site, he actually has movies you can watch of how to change the guns and tips over from one to the other, along with a lot of information on Fuji guns and turbines. His prices are competitive with Amazon, and he gives lots of choices and options when making purchases. I have no vested interest in his site or business, but I would buy from him again because of the support he provides on his web site.

Good luck spraying....I hope this helps you some. I also get great advice from other Creekers....all the information here is very interesting.
Jay Evans

[Al Navas]

I second Jay's suggestion. Roger Phelps is great to deal with, and will make good on anything he sells.


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[Andrew McCarthy]

How'd you get the Q4 for a little over $600 off of amazon.com? I've had my eye on one of these for quite some time, and it always seems to be $880 on amazon.