Question on tung oil/varnish finishing

[Perry Schmidt]

I have a cradle I made for my little girls doll. The plan I used recommended a tung oil/varnish finish. I searched for info on this and got the low-down on what this really is (mix vs. just a wipe-on varnish, etc.) Question is how do you apply this stuff?

Haven't decided if I'm going to use a 1/3 tung/spirits/varnish mix or just a wipe-on varnish. Want to try both to see what looks better. But I assume they are applied the same - which might be a wrong assumption.

W/ varnishes you lightly sand between coats so the next coat adheres better, til the last coat. Then many time I'll buff this out for a very smooth finish. (At least that's what I've always done in the past.) Do you use the same process w/ the wipe on varnishes or the 1/3 tung oil/spirits/varnish mixes? Or do you not sand between?? Or is it just a wipe each coat on? Also, how many recommended coats??

Thanks,

Perry

[Peter Gregory]

I find that sanding to 220, then wipe on 6 or 8 coats. On the last 4 or so rub hard with 0000 steel wool or your personal favorite super fine abrasive. Once I'm tired of this I wax with furniture wax.

I use Woodcraft Tung Oil which is a Oil and Varnish mix.

It really leaves a nice finish. It will darken the wood pretty quickly, so be sure that is what you want.

Good luck.

[Bob Lasley]

Perry,

Most all of the oil/varnish finishes are applied wipe on-wait a few minutes-wipe off. To the best of my knowledge, all varnish finishes need to be scuff sanded between coats in order for the next coat to adhere. Shellac and laquer do not have to be sanded in between coats as the solvent in both will melt into the previous coat, though you certainly can if you want to. As for number of coats with tung oil/varnish, for a doll cradle I would put on a minimum of three. If you think it will see hard use, more is better.

Good luck and have fun,
Bob

[Mike Sweat]

I have used Waterlox with excellent results. I think Woodcraft carries their products. Their website has all the particulars on it.

http://www.waterlox.com/

[Ken Garlock]

I have used Waterlox with excellent results. I think Woodcraft carries their products. Their website has all the particulars on it.

http://www.waterlox.com/

WaterLox is good stuff. Goes on easily, and levels out nicely. Just a quick once over with fine sandpaper between coats. About 4 brushed coats make a good finish. Follow up with a little steel wool and Johnson's paste wax.

Stop by the Dallas Woodcraft and talk to Martin Benchot, he is a WaterLox fan :)

[Howard Acheson]

These are basicly two different finishes. One is an oil/varnish the other is the thinned wiping varnish. The following will give you more info than you wanted but it also goes into the application of both. Each is applied differently.

One finish is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It is also marketed as a "Tung Oil Finish". It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

Here are some oil/varnish mixtures:(*)
Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Sealacell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)

The second is one made from varnish and a thinner like naphtha or mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish. If you apply 6 or more coats, it is the same as any full stength varnish.

Here are some thinned varnishes:(*)
Minway Wiping Varnish
Watco Wiping Varnish
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Jasco Tung Oil
(*) Courtesy Bob Flexner and some personal information.

One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

With the thinned wiping varnish, you DO NOT have to sand between coats for adhesion if you recoat within 24 hours. You can recoat as soon as the prior coat is tack free. Just wipe it on with a soft cloth or unembossed paper towel. The cloth should not be dripping wet. Think of the kid at Denny's wiping your table. That's about the speed and techique you want. Coats should not be wet and glossy looking.

For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions stated.. We're not talking rocket science here.

Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

[Tom Gattiker]

.... clarifying the (big) differnence between these products.