? For Mk. II Honing Guide Owners

[John Buzzurro]

Just got a Veritas Mk. II honing guide for Xmas, but I seem to be having a problem with it - most likely due to my own stupidity.

Per the instructions, I line up the chisel or plane blade using the Registration Jig. I then tighten the clamp bar down by turning the clamp bar knobs a little at a time on alternating sides, till it feels tight.

Here is the problem - After removing the registration jig, I am noticing that if I apply lateral pressure to the chisel or blade, it will twist to one side or the other.
If I try to tighten the clamp any tighter though, it will mar the metal on the blade, so that doesn't seem like an option.

What am I doing wrong?

john

[Mike Henderson]

I'm fairly sure that the jaws are made of aluminum which should be a lot softer than the steel in a plane blade or a chisel - so the jaws should not mark the blade you put in. I clamp mine down pretty tight and have never noticed a problem. But then, again, my chisels and plane blades are not pristine so I may not notice a few more marks.

Mike

[Chuck Powell]

John I got that guide about two weeks ago and sharpened my Marples chisels without a problem using scary sharp (I don't have stones). I tightened it down as hard as I could turn the screws with my fingers. I didn't have any slipping problems with 1/4 to 1 inch wide. I spent an hour on the 1 inch because the tip was skewed and I don't have a grinder.

[Ben Rafael]

It needs to be tightened well or the blade will move. So what if it scratches the blade? It's not a part of the blade that matters, and anyway, aluminum scratches on steel could probably be removed with a light sanding if the looks bother you.

[John Buzzurro]

Thanks guys. Sounds like I'm not tightening it enough. I was just worried about that because the instructions specifically warn not to overtighten.

[Ben Rafael]

Unfortunately, the instructions dont define overtighten.

[Derek Cohen]

John

Make sure ...

.... that the blade is centered in the jig, and ..

.... that you apply EQUAL pressure from the two knobs so that the blade is not tilted but seated flat. (VERY important!!)

Note that ...

.... some blades are not parallel side-to-side, and so squareness is a compromise, and ...

.... some blades do not have a uniform thickness, which can cause a tilt to one side.

Lastly ...

.... a high spot on the rear of a blade can/does cause a blade to twist in the jig. Make sure you flatten backs first.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Hans Braul]

I had that problem with a set of chisels that were polished very smooth and were slightly convex on the bevel side. The lacquer had never been totally removed and that added to the slipperiness. I took the lacquer off and flattened the chisels and they are fine now. I also agree a fair amount of pressure is needed.

Regards
Hans

[Mike Brady]

For chisel honing, this jig is "eclipsed" by another: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1310

[Hans Braul]

I'm afraid I must disagree. I have one and have found the Mk II to be far superior. I found that for many chisels it was impossible to get the edges to be gripped just right, so that the blade was square. I think it may depend a lot on the geometry of the chisel, but for me I gave up in frustration and ordered the Mk II.

Regards
Hans

[Derek Cohen]

For chisel honing, this jig is "eclipsed" by another: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1310

Mike

My comments above may be mistaken as criticism of the Mk II. I think that the Mk II is the best honing guide available in the market at present. But it is not perfect, nor suitable for all occasions (e.g. I prefer to use the Eclipse - now sold by LN - for my mortice chisels).

There are pros and cons with all honing guides. However overall the design for the MK II is still way ahead of the rest.

Regards from Perth

Derek