Slow Set PVA Glue

[glenn bradley]

The 'rocket scientist' at my local Rockler claimed that Titebond II Extended is just mildly watered down to slow the setting process (I bought the real stuff anyway). Any of you Creekers know if this is urban myth?

Glenn

[Doug Shepard]

I suppose it's possible. I know the min working temp is about 5 degrees higher than regular TB II and it does seem a tiny bit thinner than TBII which might be due to more water in the mix. That wouldn't stop me from using it though. The extra 5-10 mins of open time over regular TBII is a real plus for more complicated glue ups. I tend to save it for where I really need it though, as getting more always requires a special trip for me or mail order. I can get regular TBII anyplace.

[Mike Henderson]

The 'rocket scientist' at my local Rockler claimed that Titebond II Extended is just mildly watered down to slow the setting process (I bought the real stuff anyway). Any of you Creekers know if this is urban myth?

Glenn
I suppose that the Titebond people could lie, but I had asked them a glue question a while back - a different question. In their response they outlined the different glues they make and the advantages and disadvantages of each for the application I asked about.

One of the differences they claimed for the "Extend" glue was that it didn't have as much creep as regular Titebond. So it couldn't be just watered down Titebond II.

Mike

[Jamie Buxton]

I tried Titebond I Extended, and it behaved like watered-down Titebond I. It caused more bending in thin panels from the water absorbtion. It also didn't cure any slower than regular Titebond as far as I could see. I through out the entire gallon and went back to the regular stuff.

[glenn bradley]

Ouch, that hurts. I'm obviously looking for a slower set for complex or akward glue ups. I'll post my experience with the 'extend' version. Thanks to all as usual.

[Bob Smalser]

Switch to Dap or Weldwood UF plastic resin for more open time, zero creep, and full repairability.

[Charlie Plesums]

I second Bob's comment about plastic resin glue. But in a pinch, you can mist the PVA glue with water (the same spray bottle I keep in the shop to raise grain); if you do it before the skin forms on the glue it extends the open time, and reportedly doesn't hurt glue strength.

[Dennis Peacock]

I 3rd Charlie's 2nd and agree with Bob on the other adhesives. It's been my experiences with TB glues (I, II, & III) that the "working time" is almost exactly the same for all 3 of them. I did a test a while back and after 20 minutes of glue/clamp time? The pieces could not be seperated except by chisel. ;)

[Dan Forman]

You might look at Franklin's liquid hide glue as well if your project isn't going to get wet. According to an article in Wood Magazine some time ago, it is at least as strong as the stuff you have to mix up, and in general more consistent. It was strong enough to seperate the wood rather than the glue joint. It can also be wiped clean with a damp rag, and won't interfere with your finish.

Dan

[Leon Jester]

You might look at Franklin's liquid hide glue as well if your project isn't going to get wet. According to an article in Wood Magazine some time ago, it is at least as strong as the stuff you have to mix up, and in general more consistent. It was strong enough to seperate the wood rather than the glue joint. It can also be wiped clean with a damp rag, and won't interfere with your finish.

Dan

As I recall, the liquid hide glue Franklin sells is treated with urea to extend it's shelf life. Other than that, it's basically the same as you'd make from dry.

I've used it on several projects, it worked well and is repairable.

A Happy New year to all.

[Larry Browning]

Ok, really stupid question.
What do you mean by repairable? I know I have never broken my glue, it comes in a plasitc bottle for goodness sakes!!!! :eek:

[Jim Becker]

Ok, really stupid question.
What do you mean by repairable? I know I have never broken my glue, it comes in a plasitc bottle for goodness sakes!!!!

"Reparable" refers to the joint. Some glues, like hide glue, can be redisolved in the future should you need to fix a joint. A chair, for example. PVA glues are a lot less condusive to that, especially the Type II and Type III formulas. Once they are cured...the wood will break before the glue comes off.