Grizzley Jointer vs. planer

[Brian Matzke]

In reference to the thread about the 12" Grizzley jointer. If a person invested in the large jointer, would you really need a planer. As I understand it, a planer simply makes one side parallel with the other, whereas a jointer will make the side flat. Am I missing something here, or can I use this argument to get a new jointer...

thanks for the input.

[Bill White]

I do not have a large jointer, just a 4 in. one that I use primarily for edge jointing. Yes, the jointer will create a flat side (very important), then the planer will parallel the other side. Ideally you should have both tools. I just hand plane to flatten, then run the workpiece thru the planer.
Bill

[Hoa Dinh]

You've got it right.

The Bristish are probably more correct by calling a jointer "planer" and a planer "thicknesser."

[Kermit Hodges]

If a person invested in the large jointer, would you really need a planer.
Yes. Followed by a it depends on what you want to do for course.


As I understand it, a planer simply makes one side parallel with the other, whereas a jointer will make the side flat. Am I missing something here, or can I use this argument to get a new jointer...
Your right on the money. I love hand planes and can do the same thing but I wouldn't want to be without a jointer and planner either. Comment above applies here too.

[Brian Hale]

The general workflow for processing lumber is like this....

1. face joint one surface on the jointer

2. joint one edge straight on the jointer keeping the surface from step 1. against the fence.

3. rip the board parallel on the tablesaw or bandsaw keeping the surface from step 1. down.

4. run it through the thickness planer with the surface from step 1. down.

A jointer will produce a flat surface and one edge perpendicular to it but it cannot create parallel surfaces.

However, a thickness planer can make parallel surfaces from rough lumber if you make a sled for it. That would reduce the need for a jointer but it's not the most efficient process. You can search the fourm for Planer Sled if you're interested.

Brian :)

["Gary Brewer"]

Hello Brian: To answer your question the answer is yes you do need a planer if you are using machines to dimension your lumber. The jointer flattens one face and yes you could also use the jointer to flatten the opposite face but the two faces (planes ) you just surfaced would not necessarily be parallel. Most likely not. That is you would have two nice flat surfaces that would eventually intersect if extended long enough. One end of the board would not necessarily be the same thickness of the other. The planer ensures that the second face is not only flat but also parallel to the first face.

[Jim Becker]

1. face joint one surface on the jointer

2. joint one edge straight on the jointer keeping the surface from step 1. against the fence.

3. rip the board parallel on the tablesaw or bandsaw keeping the surface from step 1. down.

4. run it through the thickness planer with the surface from step 1. down.
This is a very good list for the order of things.

That said, I tend to save the edge jointing and ripping for last so that I can better determine which side of the board is "more important" to me based on color, grain, defects, etc... Face jointing and then thicknessing (even if just for "skim") helps insure I'm not potentially wasting material that I may want to use after comparing to other material being used in the project.

[Homer Faucett]

You've got it right.

The Bristish are probably more correct by calling a jointer "planer" and a planer "thicknesser."

Not really. A "planer" makes two sides parallel or coplaner.

[Brian Matzke]

Thanks for input. I finally get it that flat and parallel are not the same thing. sometimes it just takes a while for stuff to sink in..... BUT I'll still be looking for reasons to get a bigger jointer!!!

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Brian,

Look up Wall Lumber's web site and you will see lots of reasons for a bigger jointer! ;)

[glenn bradley]

Jointer to flatten, planer to thickness. My options and ideas really opened up once I could work with "rough" material.

[John Miliunas]

Thanks for input. I finally get it that flat and parallel are not the same thing. sometimes it just takes a while for stuff to sink in..... BUT I'll still be looking for reasons to get a bigger jointer!!!

Yet another reason for a wider jointer is to joint more narrow boards more effectively. For instance, if you have more figured woods in narrow boards, you can skew them a bit while going through the jointer, thus helping a bit with less tearout. :) :cool:

[scott spencer]

You don't really "need" any of these tools any more than a TS, BS, DC, DP, or router, but they do have separate functions and they sure make short work of the task at hand. No other method is as effective or efficient at flattening a face and an adjacent edge as a jointer, and no other method gives final thickness and parallel faces better than a planer. They work best in tandem.

[Jason White]

A jointer will make one side flat, but not necessarily parallel to the other side. That's why you would "joint" one side flat, then run it through the thickness planer to make the second side flat and parallel.

Better ask Santa quick!!

JW