Lacquer for pens: John Hart

[Rich Stewart]

Hey John. How about run that lacquer technique down for us again. I tried the CA/BLO method and it worked really well. I have some trouble with lacquer as it always seems to smear and get lint and crap stuck in it.

Thanks,

Rich

[John Hart]

My method of lacquer on pens is done off the lathe. I've found that you really fight it because it has a tendancy toward unevenness. So my favorite way is to mount the completed pen parts on a dowel vertically and put them on a lazy susan. Then spray 4 very light coats with about 15 minutes dry time between. I generally will hit the piece with a little steel wool between coats, and then again, just prior to buffing. More time consuming than the CA/BLO but the finish is worth it.

[Mark Hulette]

My method of lacquer on pens is done off the lathe. I've found that you really fight it because it has a tendancy toward unevenness. So my favorite way is to mount the completed pen parts on a dowel vertically and put them on a lazy susan. Then spray 4 very light coats with about 15 minutes dry time between. I generally will hit the piece with a little steel wool between coats, and then again, just prior to buffing. More time consuming than the CA/BLO but the finish is worth it.

~Hey John~

Thanks for the lacquer tut!
You use steel wool just before buffing?
What's your process for buffing after the lacq has cured?

[Rich Stewart]

Thanks John. I'll give that a try. Never occured to me that you can take it OFF the lathe.

Rich

[Bob Noles]

Rich and John,

My technique is a little different and has really worked well. I'll share it and you can see what you think.

I do use CA in the turning and sanding process as a sealer and then MM to 12,000 and burnish with a paper bag. I leave the blank on the lathe and apply Myland's Lacquer with the grain very rapidly turing the blank by hand to get even coverage. I wipe the lacquer on with an unused and unwashed brand new cloth baby diaper thus eliminating any chemical contamination and/or lint. I apply 3 coats about 15 minutes apart and then let it set over night. The next day I run thru the MM very lightly smothing out any blimishes and then reapply the lacquer again as stated above. Let dry over night again and repeat the MM and reapply the lacquer a 3rd time. Let that dry for 3-4 days and then Beall buff with white diamond only. A little RW or TSW to shine things up a little further and it is ready to go.

This method was shared with me by a professional pen turner and I personally like the finish better than any I have seen or done. Gives a real depth and shine to the finish that I have not been able to obtain with CA using any technique.

Try it and see what you think.

[John Hart]

~Hey John~

Thanks for the lacquer tut!
You use steel wool just before buffing?
What's your process for buffing after the lacq has cured?

The 0000 steel wool seems to get everything evened out if there are any inconsistencies in the application. Because I spray light coats, that's a real possibility....however, if I go any heavier, I tend to over-apply in some spots which is more difficult to correct. Like Bob Noles, I use White Diamond to buff....keeping the pen part on a dowel. My buffing system is just a 1/4 HP motor that I picked up at a flea market for $10 with a wheel attached to it. (learned that from a guy who turns burl pipes).

Bob's method sounds more thorough than mine....and probably achieves a better finish. I may try his, although I know that I am incompetent with brush on lacquer.:o

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'll add a 3rd lacquer method. I use Deft brushing lacquer and friction 3-4 coats on. I apply it with a brush at a slow speed. I then turn the speed up to the fastest speed and wait about a minute or longer and then friction. I do this for 3 coats.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I had used the dowel and lazy susan method. I tried Ken's method and like it real well. Seems to put a hard finish on. So that is what I have been using. I have tried using Renissance wax after it has dried for a day or two. Jury still out on that. Seems to be holding up pretty well.

[Rich Stewart]

Sure wouldn't want to use a used diaper Bob. Anyway, what is your method of making more than one pen every three or four days? Do you remount it on the mandrel or do you have lots of mandrels? A special place to store the curing blanks?

Thanks,

Rich

[Bob Noles]

Sure wouldn't want to use a used diaper Bob. Anyway, what is your method of making more than one pen every three or four days? Do you remount it on the mandrel or do you have lots of mandrels? A special place to store the curing blanks?

Thanks,

Rich

Yep... those dirty diapers can be a mess in more ways than one :eek:

I have accumulated about 6 mandrel "rods" and simply remove them from the collet chuck or whatever end you use to mount on the head stock and have drilled holes in a scrap 2X4 that I can just stand them up in and let them cure until ready to go back on the lathe for the next step. Actually simple and cheap way to go and works well. I think mandrel rods can be had for about $3.50 and last forever.

[Rich Stewart]

Bob, Do you have to have multiple bushing sets then, too? I see bushings cost like 5.50 for a set. Sorry for all the questions. I am trying to develop a system so I can make four or five pens a session instead of the ONE I do now.

Thanks,

Rich

[Corey Hallagan]

I apply brushing lacquer on the lathe much like Ken does only I don't fire up the lathe. I just burnish it with a clean paper towell after wiping off. Repeat 3 times and the most important part..... let it cure for a week, then Micro mesh it lightly 2400 thru 12,000. You will have a very nice long lasting finish and it is easy, just need patience to let it cure.

Corey

[Mike Ramsey]

Another way if you have a spare mandrel is put the pen on the mandrel
with one spacer at the end with the tightening nut, put a piece of wire
on the other end then just dip it into a can of Deft laq, hold it above
the can for a few secs to catch the drips then hang it up & let it dry.....
no fuss no muss! Laq isn't a good glue so everything easily
comes off the mandrell when it's dry. Watched Mr. Russ Fairfield do
that in his video.

[John Hart]

Ya know...if it were me....(and come to think of it, some times it is me :rolleyes: ).... I'd just use bolts the size of mandrels and nuts and those little washer thingies to hold the pen things still while I was dipping or spraying or brushing or whatever. That frees up the mandrel for turning, and bolts don't cost much....plus, they're easy to mount to a board. (I know that's flatwork....but a ball wouldn't work very well).:)

[Bob Noles]

Bob, Do you have to have multiple bushing sets then, too? I see bushings cost like 5.50 for a set. Sorry for all the questions. I am trying to develop a system so I can make four or five pens a session instead of the ONE I do now.

Thanks,

Rich

Hey Rich,

Swooped by and caught the thread again. I am not a big time production turner, but do work on several pens at the same time once and a while. I have several styles that I like to make and each style requires a different bushing set so yes I do have multiple bushings of various types. I'll make maybe a cigar, a baron and a slimline all at the same time. This may or may not be in line with the way you have in mind, but works quite well if it is. One thing for sure is that I do have several slim line bushings and can't remember how I ended up with so many of that one ;)

Hope this helps, if not shoot me a PM or email and we can discuss in further detail.