Chainsaw for chickens

[Burt Alcantara]

PIcked up a used Stihl from an estate sale. People wanted to get rid of everything. Only experience I've had is with a very wimpy Ryobi electric. Won't cut much over an inch.

Downloaded the Stihl manual. First 25 pages says you are going to cut your fingers off, then your hand, then your arm, finishing up with cutting your face in half.

Sorta spooked me. Got serious chainsawphobia. Worse yet, I've got a huge log of black walnut with a number of off cuts. They are in the garage but too heavy to get into the basement.

I know a lot of you are expert with the saw. Can you give me some tips so I can cut this wood without using up my life insurance policy (which I don't have)?

What's the deal with 50:1 oil/gas? How do you put that together?

Thanks,
Chicken Burt

[George Tokarev]

Welcome to the workld of legal liability. Read and heed all those warnings. They may be scary, but they make sense once you get someone who uses a chainsaw to conduct your first hands-on demo. Helpful neighbor perhaps? It's a duty of the dealer when you buy a new one, so perhaps if you 'phoned your local dealer s/he'd oblige.

50:1 is no big deal. Get a gallon gas tank, as that goes a long way, and buy the 50:1 synthetic in the oz bottle that says add to 1 gallon. Costs three times as much as buying a quart, but the fuss isn't worth it. Buy bar lube while you're getting your 2-cycle oil. Gallon of that.

Only time I regret buying in the small bottles is during blackfly season, where I used to run quite a bit richer, then clean the plug. Try this for some good advice. http://aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml

Only thing to add is when you look at that picture opposite "rough it now," imagine how much smarter it would have been to angle the cuts on the endgrain to match the curvature of the log. Lathe wouldn't be doing the dance of death, and you'd already have a bunch of wood out of the way. Bandsaw an even better choice than the chainsaw, especially if you're doing capacity sizes. A nub here and there can grow into major frustration as you trim them. I use a spokeshave, BTW, works fine, and removes quickly running down grain.

[Mark Pruitt]

Burt,
First, the gas. Get a one gallon container at the BORG or other store for a dedicated oil/gas mix. They also sell little bottles of oil specifically for this purpose. Simply empty the bottle of oil into the gallon container and fill with gas and you're good to go. You MUST use that solution, NOT straight gasoline.

About using the saw safely. Stihl is an industry leader in built-in safety. The flat "handle" in front of the upper handle will disengage in the event of a kickback, instantly stopping the saw chain. This should help to keep you from maiming yourself. Other than that, it's pretty much common sense. Keep body parts out of the path of the chain. Position the log securely where it won't rock or fall over or roll during the cut. If you're cutting down the pith of the log, make small cuts in each end to serve as visual guides in holding the saw in a steady position as you cut. Don't overwork the saw by forcing it. Keep a sharp blade. Etc. etc. etc.

Now a question for you: Where did you find the manual online? I've been looking for one and haven't found it yet.:confused:

EDIT: One thing I meant to add. There is a special chain that is good for "ripping" or cutting down the pith. If you go to a Stihl dealer they will have such a chain.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Burt

Nothing to be afraid of just be careful. I would suggest that you take your saw to your local Stihl dealer. Get it tuned up, maybe buy a spare chain and get the old one sharpened, pick up a bottle of chain lube. All that is going to cost you maybe $50 - 60. When you go to pick it up ask for a little lesson. Maybe plan your pick up when the guy ain't real busy. I suspect your confidence will grow with a quick demo. Knowing how to start and care for the saw will also reduce future frustrationa nd in the end make you a safer user.

Enjoy
Frank

[Paul Engle]

Also do not forget to get a grease injector for the tip sprocket, it dries up you are done.and some , like the Husky need the output bearing greased after 40 hrs. it is under the clutch pack. lots of loggers use the skip tooth chain .... less to sharpen if ya chunck a rock out in the woods. oh yea 1/4 round file with handle. put bar lube in smaller plastic bottle instead of luging around a gallon, and 2.5 gas can fits the small bottle of mix perfect and usually has gas stabilizer in it. Spare chain good idea tho unless you can sharpen really good and really fast and can take the rakers down as it wears , also good #2 flat file for the bar in case it wears off flat( chain will want to cut off to one side and you'll be fighting it to cut straight) make your self a 2x4 frame to hold the block and see Bill Grumbe's video about preping a round for a block. :D Tie your bar wrench / file to the lube or gas container so ya don't loose em . Clean air filter after a cord of wood and change the plug yearly unless it fouls , run some marvel mystery oil thru the carb if you plan to let it set a while ( not running just pull it thru with plug wire off.)

[Burt Alcantara]

Mark,
Here's the url for manuals. I downloaded mine but still ordered the hardcopy since it's free. I also ordered their DVD - "Chainsawing for the chicken hearted."

In Ernie Conover's book on bowl turning, he has a small chapter on chainsawing. One thing I'm not clear about with regards to kickback is can you embed the entire bar into a log that's longer then the bar?

http://www.stihlusa.com/information/info_product2.html

Thanks to all (but I'm still nervous),
Burt

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Burt....If the log you are cutting is larger in diameter than the bar is on your chain saw, you can still cut it. You cut it partially through, roll the log and cut some more.

A lot of chainsaws have a tooth like device attached to the body near where the bar and chain leave the body. I normally start the cut and pivot the saw off that toothlike device. If your chain saw doesn't have one, I would still start the cut using the portion of the bar and chain near the body and pivot the saw on the front of the body. As you complete a cut you don't want the two piece falling towards each other and pinching the blade. I usually try to get another piece of wood under the area of the cut so that as I'm completing the cut, each piece or at least one of the two resultant pieces is tilting away from the area of the cut and opening the cut rather than closing it and pinching the blade.

As stated above.....Take your saw to a dealer...have it looked over, tuned and ask them to show you how to use it. Chainsaws are extremely dangerous! I was lucky in that when I first got mine, a friend and I would go up into the Cascade Mountains to cut firewood for heating our homes. He was quite experienced and showed me how to use it.

[Reed Gray]

We just had the local Stihl distributer do a presentation on chainsaw use for our club. Stihl has a DVD out (I think the stores sell them for cost) that will run you through everything that you need to know except what you can learn by experience. Get one if you can.
robo hippy

[D Randall]

all great advice. I've got a McCullach (sp?) myself. a Stihl would be nice, but I dont use it enough. If it did not come with a case, get one, they're damn handy. I keep a quart size bottle of B&C oil in there, along with a pair of gloves, a rag, the wrenches (I keep a spare) and two (TWO) spare chains. IMHO two is just easier. esp if you are cutting all day (think firewood, not just two bowl blanks) and two chains makes more sense. when you sharpen, just take all three, it's usually around $6 or $7 to sharpen each. depends on size of chain.

and that whole avoid the top of the tip thing on the bar when cutting.. yeah that's where most of the safety issues happen. otherwise, just make sure everyone around you knows what you are doing, and you know where everyone else is. no kids, no pets around. I also suggest face protection, I use a logger helmet (hard hat with ear muffs and a face screen, wear safety glasses as well) and everyone says Chaps are a great idea as well. I should, but I dont. anyone else where the chaps? (point of the chaps is you get a scratch on your leg, the chaps bind and stop the chain, instead of your leg) I just try to always make safe cuts.

Never cut over your head. not supposed to cut on a ladder either.

sorry, diddnt mean to write a book. just be safe.

[Richard Madison]

Forgive if already mentioned and I missed it. Strongly suggest use of StaBil fuel stabilizer (or equiv.) in all small engine fuel all year round (cause you don't know exactly when the last grass cutting of the year will be). Keeps the fuel from turning to goo during the "off season".

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Another fuel note--my Stihl, a different model, uses mid grade gas. Keeps the running temp down they say.

[Ed Nelson978]

There's nothing to be afraid of, it's just another tool! Just make sure you pay attention to what you are doing because they will bite if you get distracted, trust me...I know. Brace yourself and keep your head out of the direct line of the bar. Happy cutting!

[Dennis Peacock]

The newer Stihl saw manuals say to run high test premium fuel. Also, never store the saw with fuel mix still in the tank. Drain it and run it dry. This will help you fuel system of the saw last much longer.

Also...one note on Bar/chain oil. Use the Stihl brand bar oil. It has an anti-sling additive in it that will help the oil stay on the bar/chain better and provide better overall lubrication. It's about $1 per gallon more than the cheap stuff, but a bar and chain will cost you considerably more than 10 gallons of bar/chain oil. DAMHIKT!!!! :o

[Chris Barton]

Try some of these:

http://forestry.about.com/od/forestryhelp/ss/byw_saw_6.htm

http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/safety/chainsaw/chainsaw.html

http://www.redcross.org/pubs/dspubs/chainsaw.pdf

http://www.appalachiantrail.org/atf/cf/%7BD25B4747-42A3-4302-8D48-EF35C0B0D9F1%7D/STUCHAP2_web.pdf

[Joe Mioux]

Burt,
First, the gas. Get a one gallon container at the BORG or other store for a dedicated oil/gas mix. They also sell little bottles of oil specifically for this purpose. Simply empty the bottle of oil into the gallon container and fill with gas and you're good to go. You MUST use that solution, NOT straight gasoline.



The contents of that little bottle may not yield a 50:1 ratio.

Burt, don't mess this part up.

Make sure you read and measure out the proper amount of 2 cycle oil into the approriate amount of gasoline.

Often, I only mix a 1/2 gallon, just so I can keep the fuel fresh.

If you purchase anymore 2 cycle power tools, make sure the fuel to oil ratio is close to 50:1. It is a real pain, to have 2 or 3 cans of 2 cycle fuel sitting around in your garage. I have converted everything over to Stihls and Shindawa stuff and only having one can of 50:1 certainly makes life easier.

Also: Stihls manuals are very good with proper cutting techniques and safety issues. Read the manual and buy some good eye and ear protection. It doesn't sound as if you are going to be cutting a lot of wood, but those two safety devices are a must!

Joe

[Joe Melton]

A gallon is 128 ounces, and 1/50th of that would be 2.53 ounces.
A cup is 8 ounces, and a third of a cup is 2.66 ounces, so you need a little less than a third of a cup of oil to a gallon of gas.
Lots of guys who use chain saws seriously wear heavy leather clothing on parts of their bodies. You can easily imagine, as you are tearing through a log, how that saw could much easier tear through your thigh, unhindered at all by denim.
If you have a sawzall, that will work well for some of this work, and be much safer.
It is really fun to make lots of noise and tear things up, though. Can't get much more manly than that!
Joe

[Roger Bell]

Safety with the powersaw is not something to approach with a laid-back attitude. If you do sustain a cut, it will be pretty ugly.....(I have treated at least a dozen cuts in the field and they were all butt-ugly....and most of these were sustained by professionals making silly mistakes combined with a consistent failure to employ backup systems............so, what is the lesson here?)..........so do employ good common sense and as well as backup systems to insure that you dont suffer needlessly.

And do make a sincere effort to learn how to cut safely. The best way, as with anything else, is to learn from someone who knows what he is doing, so he can tell you what you are doing wrong before it becomes ingrained as a bad habit. And there is absolutely, positively no substitue for this, despite what many will have you believe. I have trained hundreds of people in the field in the safe use of the saw and I can definitively assert that you aren't going to learn diddly-squat from no book any more that you will learn to dance from a book. So if you insist on proceeding without proper instruction, then consider backup systems.

So what about backup systems.....?

The majority of cuts are (statistically) inflicted on two areas. There are nuances to this discussion, but in the interest of brevity, I will keep it simple and general....

First, is (usually) the left hand. The bulk of these incidences will occur from a single primary cause. Which is failure to wrap the thumb around the handle. So when the saw kicks, (and, believe me, it will, from time to time) the unsupported hand is driven past the guard into the chain. Sometimes the guard stops the hand (and the chain) and sometimes it does not. That is why the guard was invented, but it remains an imperfect solution to an ever-present hazard. Much like the safety on a rifle. It is mechanical and therefore subject to failure. So we always always always wrap the thumb around the handle, because that method is nearly foolproof in terms of injury to the left hand. And for those of us with poor memories or sloppy habits, there are kevlar gloves. So that when the hand does contact the chain, the glove minimizes the damage.

Second, is when the chain contacts the (usually the left) knee. This is generally caused by walking around with a running chain, usually in brush. No one plans to do this, as it is self-evidently retarded, but it does happen. Why, I have done this myself at least twenty times.....when the demands and rewards of production seduced me into sloppiness. So those of us who feel that we are not so infallible as to never make a mistake wear kevlar chaps. Something you might consider as well. So that when the chain does hit the knee thru a momentary lapse of attention, well then the chaps do their job and the damage to tissue is minimized or eliminated alltogether.... and we are once again reminded of some of the basic rules of safe cutting and the value of backup systems.

A much more rare incidence is a kickback where the bar contacts the head/face. This is invariable the result of an ignorance of appropriate technique or just bad luck. Either way this is the baddest of bad scenes. Do not facilitate this happening to you. Those of us playing the percentages and recognizing our human infallibility cover our butts by wearing hardhats with a wide brim....so that the chain hits the hat rather than our heads or faces, or, at the very least, minimizes the damage. Moreover, you can double up on the protection by also using a face shield. So, in the unlikely event that we are not quite as masterful as we might imagine ourselves to be, we continue to sport our (to quote our own Bill Grumbine) "boyish good looks". If you think that a ball cap will provide enough protection, or that you are "just going to make a couple of cuts", consider how sexy a pirate persona seems to be these days....

[Richard Madison]

Burt,
Two-stroke engines (like chain saws, most string trimmers, some mini-rototillers) do not have a crankcase oil reservoir, whence is pumped or splashed to the engine parts needing lubrication in conventional four-stroke engines. The oil must be supplied by mixing it with the fuel. As the oil/fuel/air mixture enters the engine, it is pumped (by the piston) through the crankcase (thus lubricating the crankshaft and bearings) before entering the combustion chamber.

I mix two-stroke fuel one or two quarts at a time, using 1-quart plastic oil "cans". One ounce of oil plus filling the "can" completely full gives about a 32:1 mixture. A tad less than an ounce would give you a 50:1. The gas has already had StaBil added. The trimmer likes 32:1 and the saw likes 50:1 89 octane (so separate small gas can for saw). Newer saws have a slightly higher compression ratio (more power from same size engine), so require slightly higher octane fuel.

My 24-year-old Echo trimmer has survived on this diet and still cuts well. It had a new ignition module about 10 yrs. ago, gets a new spark plug every 4 or 5 years, and is on its second or third string reel/dispenser thingy. If newer Echo chain saw does half that well it will be sufficient unto my needs.

Note that modern two-stoke engines are designed to run WFO (full throttle and near max. r.p.m.) and not be "lugged down" to low speed.

Just some stuff for ref.

[Ian Abraham]

Burt.. chainsaws should be respected not feared ;)

Lopping up a small log in your driveway is about as safe as it gets with a chainsaw. A good place to get a feel for the saw, and you are cutting in a nice open environment with steady footing and no awkward body positions. Unless you do something REALLY dumb you will be safe.

It gets more hairy when you are felling trees, limbing logs and climbing through vines and scrub with your saw. Lots more things to go wrong there and you really need to keep your wits about you then.

Re the book learning, reading the manual puts you WAY ahead of the guy that hasn't read it. I agree that you dont want to buy a saw, read the book and go out and try and cut down a 4 ft dia tree. But read the book, and saw up a small log.. no worries. Get used to to saw and study the book again, you should be able to cut down small trees.

I have learnt to use a saw from books / the net. Not ideal , but all the info is out there, learn it, and work up in stages. I have also done a 2 day OSH approved chainsaw course, it was a good course but I knew 99% of it already. I already had a pdf of the manual the course was based on. Probably the WORST thing is to learn from someone that doesn't know what they are doing, you just learn all their bad habits :(

One other thing, get a basic sharpening guide and file. Thats probably the number one frustration people have with chainsaws, blunt chain. With a bit of practice you can keep the chain cutting good as new with a few minutes filing.

Cheers

Ian

[George Tokarev]

Lots of suggestions. First, if you have an "oilomatic" chain, there will be no sprocket grease hole, so don't buy a nozzle. Pay special attention to the amount of oil used per tank and keep the oiler hole clear. New-fangled ideas like this chain-oiled sprockets still make me suspicious.

Second, with synthetic oils, the ounces don't count. Read the label. It's the lubricating value that determines the mix.

As I mentioned, your dealer is obligated to instruct you and get your signature on the "course," when you buy, so give a call. The once-over will be good for the saw, and the course for you.

I would like to add one more to the injury-avoidance list. Start the saw on the ground with your foot in the handle. Never drop start the thing, especially with the throttle lock engaged. It may start, startle, and pivot at the end of the recoil cord. Believe me, you do not want to ask me how I know this. I'd rather forget those runs myself.

Your dealer will recommend safety chain. Get it and use it until you gain confidence, then switch to chisel, which is friendlier on the rip.

[George Summers]

Burt,
About using the saw safely. Stihl is an industry leader in built-in safety. The flat "handle" in front of the upper handle will disengage in the event of a kickback, instantly stopping the saw chain.

Depends on the age of the saw you bought at the estate sale. I have a 25 year old Stihl that runs great, but, there is no chain brake. I'm not about to toss it just to buy one with a brake.

George

[Mark Pruitt]

Burt,
First, the gas. Get a one gallon container at the BORG or other store for a dedicated oil/gas mix. They also sell little bottles of oil specifically for this purpose. Simply empty the bottle of oil into the gallon container and fill with gas and you're good to go. You MUST use that solution, NOT straight gasoline.
The contents of that little bottle may not yield a 50:1 ratio.

Burt, don't mess this part up.

Make sure you read and measure out the proper amount of 2 cycle oil into the approriate amount of gasoline.
I should have been a little clearer. The bottle's label will say whether or not its entire content will yield a 50:1 ratio when mixed with a gallon of gasoline.:o

[Dan Gill]

Respect, don't fear that chainsaw. I speak from experience, having taken 22 stitches in my left middle finger from a saw that was thankfully winding down when I contacted it. I found out the hard way: don't let go of the handle even to deflect a branch that is whipping toward your face.

By the way, if you use that chainsaw on chickens, you're going to have a REAL mess on your hands . . . and chest . . . and face.:eek:

[John Hart]

....By the way, if you use that chainsaw on chickens, you're going to have a REAL mess on your hands . . . and chest . . . and face.:eek:

The key is to freeze them first. The difficult part is convincing them to climb into the freezer I suppose.:rolleyes:

[Mark Pruitt]

By the way, if you use that chainsaw on chickens, you're going to have a REAL mess on your hands . . . and chest . . . and face.:eek:

The key is to freeze them first. The difficult part is convincing them to climb into the freezer I suppose.:rolleyes:

Maybe that's why the instructions say to wait until summer.:confused: :rolleyes: :p

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The key is to freeze them first. The difficult part is convincing them to climb into the freezer I suppose.:rolleyes:

John....use corn....leave a trail like Hansel and Gretel did.........works better on a upright freezer than a chest type freezer but still can be done.....DAMHIKT.....:eek:

[John Hart]

John....use corn....leave a trail like Hansel and Gretel did.........works better on a upright freezer than a chest type freezer but still can be done.....DAMHIKT.....:eek:

Mark Pruitt's chickens come with instructions....Is this what it says on the instructions? Or are you just crowing your own? :)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'd suggest using Mark's!

[Scott Loven]

I dont know about you, but I would never give a chainsaw to a chicken!

[Bill Boehme]

......By the way, if you use that chainsaw on chickens, you're going to have a REAL mess on your hands . . . and chest . . . and face.........

The title had me spooked a bit, but I opened the thread anyway, halfway expecting to see something that resembled the Texas Chainsaw Massacre.

Bill

[terry richards]

Ditto to the other posters on eye, head, and face protection.

There are several varieties of chaps - all better than none. However, those that wrap around the leg give more coverage than those covering only the front of the leg. You can also get them in a bib cut - great for working in brush and brambles. A good set can set you back several bucks, but remember, you can't buy even one doctor stitch in the ER for the price of a pair of chaps. Buy the good set - don't scrimp here.

There are two basic chap designs. The kevlar type are designed to protect as a barrier. The loose weave type are designed to shred on chain contact and stop the chain by clogging up the sprocket. Get the nine layer vs. the six layer - a little hotter in the summer, but half again as much stuff between you and the chain.

Also for those of us who spent way too much time in our youths with our heads stuck by loud engines or ?enjoying? amplified music, be sure to wear ear protection to preserve what hearing you have left. You can get the hard hat, the face shield, and ear muffs all in the same assembly - plus keeps your ears warm in winter too. Wear safety glasses under the face shield.

Yes, read the manual and do what it says.

[Jason Roehl]

Someone gave me the Husqy face screen/helmet/ear protection for Christmas a couple years ago. Works great. The screen doesn't fog, the ear protection is integral, so there's no discomfort there (a cheap face shield and ear muffs was an uncomfortable combo). It does keep you somewhat warm in the winter, overly so in the summer, but chainsawing pretty much sucks in the summer no matter how you shake it. I've never worn chaps, always blue jeans, but even they have helped me keep a little bit of my blood. Twice in my early days of using a chainsaw I had a chain come off the bar and slap me in the leg, no damage.

[Burt Alcantara]

I am grateful for the advice received in this thread. I've bookmarked all the links and will study carefully.

I think there is fuel in the saw as I can hear something sloshing around. Don't think there is much tho.

I feel confident enough to go out side and cut some of the small logs but the ground is covered with snow and it's COLD out. It's supposed to be a bright sunny day but not in this town. Perhaps that's good. Will keep me with a nose stuck in these pages.

I will report back on my progress.

Many, many thanks to you guys. You are all terrific!

Burt

[Frank Chaffee]

...So we always always always wrap the thumb around the handle, because that method is nearly foolproof in terms of injury to the left hand. ....
I addition to that, I keep my left arm straight, which in a kickback makes the saw rotate about the shoulder rather than getting closer to my body.

[Ian Abraham]

I think there is fuel in the saw as I can hear something sloshing around. Don't think there is much tho.


If the saw hasn't run for a while then tip out that old gas and fill it up with fresh mix.
After a while the lighter components evaporate out of the gas and leave you with something thats not quite gas anymore:(
Saw may be hard to start and not run properly.

Cheers

Ian

[George Tokarev]

After a while the lighter components evaporate out of the gas and leave you with something thats not quite gas anymore:(


I take it you're not an alcohol "drying" man?

[Ian Abraham]

Nope.. I'm the "saws should start on the 3rd pull even if they are cold" man :D