Sanding Sealer Question

[Jason Christenson]

This weekend I started to finish the fishing lures I'm making for Christmas presents. I started with three coats of Zinnzer Sanding Sealer and it looks so good that I'm wondering.... why not use sanding sealer as a final finish?

Jason

[Brodie Brickey]

Jason,

I don't see a problem with it. When you have a couple coats on them, buff one of them out and see how it looks. If lacking then you can always take the next steps.

The only possible problem would be the level of protection to sealer will supply in comparison to a poly. They are going to be used aren't they?

Regards,

Brodie
http://www.SmoothTurning.com

[Curt Fuller]

This weekend I started to finish the fishing lures I'm making for Christmas presents. I started with three coats of Zinnzer Sanding Sealer and it looks so good that I'm wondering.... why not use sanding sealer as a final finish?

Jason

I'll probably getting a jillion people telling me I'm wrong, but I've always been of the idea that sanding sealer is just a lacquer that's thinned down so that it penetrates deeper and dries quicker. I'm only familiar with Deft sanding sealer but it seems to be just a watered down version of their semi-gloss finish. By the time you get 3 coats you probably accomplished the same as 1 coat of sealer and on coat of semi-gloss.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Curt you are not alone! I always figured it was watered down poly.

[Gary DeWitt]

I think so too. Before we had to have shelves and shelves of finish, one for each and every possibility, woodworkers would thin their own stuff, and turners would mix their own friction polishes. Sam Maloof of rocking chair fame always mixed his own, now it's sold through Rockler stores. Every can of finish I've read the label on recently admonishes not to thin. Must be so they can also sell you sealer!
Somebody this week, I think it was Travis, posted a turning finished only with a couple coats of sealer and buffed out. I see no reason it wouldn't work.
As to what I'd use to finish something that might spend a lot of time underwater, I'd use bar top resin, or possibly marine varnish, and test each for durability.
Any chance we might see some pics? Sounds like an interesting project.

[George Tokarev]

This weekend I started to finish the fishing lures I'm making for Christmas presents. I started with three coats of Zinnzer Sanding Sealer and it looks so good that I'm wondering.... why not use sanding sealer as a final finish?


I'm going to assume it's shellac-based rather than lacquer, as there are two common types. As long as it doesn't contain a stearate to help keep the sandpaper clean, shouldn't pose a problem. Stearates make it a weaker film.

That said, if I were making fishing lures I wouldn't be using brittle finishes like the solvent types, but finishes long on oil for flexibility. Spar type varnishes are long on oil, and you certainly can use a thinned coat as the base, if you care too. I'd dip and drip, personally.

[Jason Christenson]

I'm using Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish for my final finish. I will post some pictures when I'm all done, hopefully by Thursday. For the record, I have my doubts that any of these will actually be fished with, but it's possible.

Jason

[Jim Becker]

I'll probably getting a jillion people telling me I'm wrong, but I've always been of the idea that sanding sealer is just a lacquer that's thinned down so that it penetrates deeper and dries quicker. .

Quite the opposite. Lacquer sanding sealer is just lacquer with a higher amount of solids that fill in grain, etc. The increased solids give you something to sand off between coats to level the workpiece for a smoother final finish with the "normal" lacquer. Please do note that lacquer sanding sealer is very different from the "stuff" sold as sanding sealer in retail outlets. Because lacquer "burns in", lacquer sanding sealer becomes "one" with the whole finish. The increased solids "may" affect clarity just a little, but not really noticable. Lacquer sanding sealer is actually good to use on porous woods. The other stuff is a waste of money...de-waxed shellac is a better alternative as a "sealer" or barrier coat with non-lacquer finishes.