Some Mercury Mods

[Jerry Allen]

I made a couple of modifications to my GCC/Laserpro/Mercury last year.
George Perzel suggested I post them since some of you might be interested.
There are two.
The first is that I remove the Philips head screws that hold the Mirror #1 access plate and replace the with knobs. It's bad enough to grovel around on the ground, but having to use a screwdriver just adds insult to injury. Why they couldn't have used the same knobs that are used for the Mirror #1 and Mirror #3 covers is beyond me.
Since you have a laser, you can just make your own.
Obtain 2 M4 x ~.5" long Allen head machine screws. I got mine at the Orange Box. Usually this type of screw has knurling or coin marks around the head circumference.
Measure the diameter of the head.
Draw a circle or hexagon in Corel draw about .62" to .72" across.
draw circle inside that object that is aproximately .005 to .0075 smaller than the head diameter. That's to get a press fit. If you do it right, you won't need any glue or epoxy. Up to you. You can make it loose and use epoxy which will work fine. Or you can twiddle with the inner circle to get a press fit. I used .25" acrylic. Birch ply would also be adequate.

I'll upload Mod #2 in the next post which adds a light inside the cabinet.

[Gary Hair]

I made a couple of modifications to my GCC/Laserpro/Mercury last year.
George Perzel suggested I post them since some of you might be interested.
There are two.
The first is that I remove the Philips head screws that hold the Mirror #1 access plate and replace the with knobs. It's bad enough to grovel around on the ground, but having to use a screwdriver just adds insult to injury. Why they couldn't have used the same knobs that are used for the Mirror #1 and Mirror #3 covers is beyond me.
Since you have a laser, you can just make your own.
Obtain 2 M4 x ~.5" long Allen head machine screws. I got mine at the Orange Box. Usually this type of screw has knurling or coin marks around the head circumference.
Measure the diameter of the head.
Draw a circle or hexagon in Corel draw about .62" to .72" across.
draw circle inside that object that is aproximately .005 to .0075 smaller than the head diameter. That's to get a press fit. If you do it right, you won't need any glue or epoxy. Up to you. You can make it loose and use epoxy which will work fine. Or you can twiddle with the inner circle to get a press fit. I used .25" acrylic. Birch ply would also be adequate.

I'll upload Mod #2 in the next post which adds a light inside the cabinet.

As much as I appreciate the McGyverism I would probably just have gone to www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com) and ordered the following:
Part # 62935K11 Metric Nylon Fluted-Rim Knob M4 X 10 mm Threaded Stud, 16 mm DiameterIn stock
QuantityEach1-9 Each $1.2410 or more 1.14

My hourly rate is $120.00 and it would certainly take me more than 1 minute to make this.

[Jerry Allen]

Mercuries don't come with a light in the cabinet. Later models do.
I got tired of using flashlights. I use a Pinnacle black anodised cutting table so it's pretty dark in there.

I obtained a GE Bright Stick at K-Mart. I've seen them a lot of other places as well. They are inexpensive, around $10, have a built in switch, and most importantly have the smallest fixture footprint available for that size tube. Also they put out very little heat which is good for inside the cabinet. Extra heat is not good.

You will also need about a dozen 4" Tyraps or equiv., and a 6-8' light duty extension cord. 2 wire nuts.

Optionally, a .25" ID rubber gommet like those used in a firewall, or a bulkhead strain relief for a two wire 18ga. cord.

The first thing is to lash the light to the existing holes through the flanges inside the front of the cabinet. There are three holes to use. Just right.
Mount it with the switch and cord at the left. (I guess it could have been at the right also, requiring less extension cord.)
Wrap the switch back and lash it to the bulb as shown in the photos.

One of the most important things to look out for is the routing from the light over the edge of the table. You have to tie it in such a way as not to get pinched when the table is in the extreme up position. See photos. Use ties to keep the cord from fouling the Z-Axis screw.

If you mount the switch at the left, you will route the cord along the left side to the back of the cabinet. Across the back to the existing hole in the lower right corner of the cabinet. That hole leads into the motherboard compartment on the right side. You will need to cut the female end of the extension cord off about 4 to 6" from the end so you can route the extension cord through the hole and out of the cabinet from the outside. You will use two wire nuts, probably 2 2-18s. Use a knife or Exacto knife to start a separation between the two halves of the extension cord at the end you cut off. About 3 feet should suffice.
route the wires through two vent holes in the motherboard access panel at the right and tie a strain relief knot immediately inside the panel.
Note: This is not a safe wiring method. The proper way would be to drill or punch a hole for a grommet. I just chose not to do it to avoid messing up my paint job. How you do it is up to you. I am aware of what's going on the and don't allow tugging, etc. It's up to you. Also, if you are not handy with simple wiring, then DON"T TRY THIS AT HOME!
Use ties inside the motherboard compartment to keep the cord away from the motherboard and electronics. Note: Disconnect the AC inpput while doing this mod. Also keep your mitts away from the motherboard as it is static sensitive. Wear a wrist strap to ground yourself if you are a klutz.

Run the ends of the extension cord into the laser table compartment through the hole at the bottom right mentioned earlier. See photo. Apply wire nuts to reattach the female end of the extension cord. Do a nice clean job and check your work before you power up. Add ties where needed to prevent damage. You can get glue-on Tyrap bases at the electronics department of your hardware store. Do a good job. Remember that AC can kill.

Remainder of phots in the next post...

[Jerry Allen]

the rest of the photos...
Last one is the result.

One last note. I have used a few GE Bright Sticks. If they ever fail to light when you flip the switch, press the two end caps on the bulb towards each other. After that it will probably never fail to turn on again.
The one I show here has been working well over a year with no problems. Sure beats using a flashlight and makes cleaning much easier too.
Next time I'll get a Spirit/Accuris which has a cabinet light. No laser should be without it.

[Jerry Allen]

Gary,
While I can see your point, and I'm sure it's the way to go for those in a rush, or the inept, I have to ask how much time it would take to research and place your order. And then wait for a delivery. Kind of a toss. Also, I toss enough scrap acrylic on a daily basis, so it makes me feel better to use some of the waste. Drawing time is way less than ordering time and I cut it while I was vectoring something else.
I don't bill myself for breathing. There's a certain amount of satifaction in "McGyverism" and also it's necessary just to use the machine; fixtures, tooling, making it work, etc.
But, now that you mention it, I will have to consider ordering a few. Thanks for the tip.

[Killor Perez]

Hello Jerry
They are very good ideas that I also had in mind (especially thelight, but using LED strips).
I have practiced other opening on the left side.
In order to introduce pieces (in my case guitars) and gain more work area (X axis) and speed engraving.
and another small modification I've done has been in the software.(Specifically the driver)
I have won some millimeters extra in the X axis, Now I have 650mm:cool:
You can also change the Y axis, but only 2mm bit longer...

I have in mind to open a hole in the table to locate larger piecesbut the issue is delicate and if I do not mean machinecompensates for the removal.:rolleyes:
What do I need to add is a switch along the X axis and connected to the circuit Auto Focus, to avoid accidents pieces that clash with the X axis to climb the table ..