Some opinions based on experience please....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Well folks.....I did it! I opened my big mouth again and now I need some experienced turner to help me out.....

I voluteered to turn some bubinga knobs for a fellow Creeker's project. Now here's the question and catch.....He sent me one out of pine for a pattern. The knob has a very tight cove....maybe 1/4-5'16" diameter in it. I have a 3/8" Robert Larson spindle gouge ground to what I call a detail gouge profile...Very much like the one in the Dec. 2006 FWW gouge sharpening article. Can I turn that tight radius with that or do I need to get a smaller spindle gouge....I've notice Robert Sorby makes both a 1/4" and 1/8" spindle gouge...........What say ye?

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Hi Ken, Max Taylor here. While waiting for the avalanche of replys, why not chuck up a lesser piece of wood and have at it. That should give you an answer. Lots of times I have tried the tools I have and found they worked as good an a new one.Saves money to buy or get more wood.Hope this helps. Max

[John Hart]

Here's what I did Ken, so take it for what it's worth.:rolleyes: I went to Harbor Freight and bought some chisels like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3816

Super cheap. Anyway, for small specialized cuts, I grind these chisels down to the shape of scraper I want, put a nice bevel on it, and have at it. They may not hold an edge as well as HSS but for small coves like you have to deal with, they work great. I've seen people on TV use a pointy kind of spindle gouge thing to turn tight coves, but I ain't good enough for that!:)

[David Fried]

My first thought was make a small scraper but John beat me to it.
I think try a practice piece is also good advice.

Just thought I'd mention that my local Woodcraft has some mini
turning tools on sale. I got the boxed set of 5 for Avery as a Christmas
present for 9.99. I think they are about 1 - 1.50 each without the nice
wood box. Call first as I realize your woodcraft is a billion miles away
and you have to fend off wild cats and wolves to get there.:eek:

[George Tokarev]

I've got cylindrical gouges down to 1/8 or below flute width. Bought 1/2 to 1/8 - six for fifty - back when. With one of them and a fingernail grind, only the very bottom of the cove will have to be scraped, and that means less sanding :) . You really have to concentrate on keeping the toolrest close, because the little fellas will flex and chatter if you get the cut too broad. If you have one of those old thin section 1/2" wide scrapers that came with every tool set, now's the time to grind it to a standard chisel. You can make the basic cuts with it, and get most of the stock out of the way for the final tiny profile.

Then try a few beads with it and you'll keep it for that, and planing. Angle of grind a bit over 2:1 is what I'm using. Reaches into the narrowest of spots without a heel bruise. Grabby, but not as difficult to get used to as a skew.