McNaughton and Monster Tool Hollowing???

[Dario Octaviano]

LOML will get me either the Standard McNaughton Coring system or the Monster Hollow Form with Laser (or both) for Christmas :D :p

One requirement she gave me is she wants to see both in action (not just pics). Is there a site I can give her with a mpeg or avi or whatever showing these???

PLEASE help me on this.

[Mark Pruitt]

You lucky dog!!!;) :cool: :D

Dunno about the Monster Hollow Form system, but as for the McNaughton Coring System, if you'll get Bill Grumbine's second DVD (Beyond the Basic Bowl) you'll see him doing a demonstration of the McNaughton system to core a large piece of cherry. www.wonderfulwood.com (http://www.wonderfulwood.com) is the website. Click on "For Turners."

[Pete Jordan]

The Oneway coring has video on their site to if you are interested.
www.oneway.ca

[Andy Hoyt]

There are a number of us on here with Monster's Laserizing Rig. It's awesome.

[Dario Octaviano]

Pete,

I know McNaughton is more difficult to use than Oneway but I like the flexibility it offers. Showing her the Oneway vide won't help me any because she knows the issues (I shared too much info) :rolleyes: and that is why she wants to see one in action first.

[Ron Sardo]

Pete,

I know McNaughton is more difficult to use than Oneway but I like the flexibility it offers. Showing her the Oneway vide won't help me any because she knows the issues (I shared too much info) :rolleyes: and that is why she wants to see one in action first.

I've heard people say that and I have to tell you, it ain't so!
My first attempt was a success.

As mentioned Bill G has pics on his website and I know there is a VHS (DVD?) out. I think it's Mike Mahoney who is in the video

[Mike Vickery]

Dario,
I sent you a pm. The Mahoney video is excellent I watched it twice before I go my Mc Naughton then went to try it and butchered my first piece. I then went back and watched it again after using the Mc Naughton a little and was able to core a 14 x 9 50 Lbs piece of box elder burl with out much trouble, was not able to go as deap as I would like but still got a couple good cores. What I am trying to say is their is a learning curve but it is not as bad as you would think based on some of the stuff on the internet.

[Brian McInturff]

Dario,
Any reason why you are looking at the Monster Hollow over others? Why a captured over Arm Brace? Just curious on what swayed you this way, shooting for thin walls and figure the captured system is better for that? One reason I ask is I'm trying to decide between which "type" of system to go with.

[Jim Becker]

Why a captured over Arm Brace? Just curious on what swayed you this way, shooting for thin walls and figure the captured system is better for that? One reason I ask is I'm trying to decide between which "type" of system to go with.

Try both---and I can almost see you running to the store with your credit card in hand to plunk down the cost of the captured system. What seems fancy at first, takes away the physical fatique and tension that comes with hollowing...it can be hard work. It lets you concentrate on the art while guiding the cutting edge with just a light touch with your hands. I'd not want to go back to hollowing without my captured system (a Jamison) for anything larger than "small". (I do very small hollowforms with a one-hand tool made by Bob Rosand)

[Brian McInturff]

Jim,
Any issues with mounting on the Stubby? Any mods needed? I go and pick mine up at the terminal Monday.(The Sytubby that is) Drive By Gloat!

[Dennis Peacock]

I have a captured setup and LOVE it. It takes all the worry out of hollowing and put in relaxing while turning. You don't have to worry about much of anything. I like it when I can relax at the lathe. Captured setup is the way to go if you were to ask me. :rolleyes: :D

[Jim Becker]

Any issues with mounting on the Stubby? Any mods needed? I go and pick mine up at the terminal Monday.(The Sytubby that is) Drive By Gloat!

Woo hoo!!! His Stubby comes home...soon!! (Pictures are required, Brian.... ;) )

No issue mounting on Stubbalina. I actually took the oak rear support I made for my previous lather, a OneWay 1018, and just raised the base 3" using stacked birch plywood scraps to make up for the swing increase on the ways. The bottom two layers of the "new" base were extended a few inches to allow me to better leverage the short bed for tool rest base use under smaller hollowforms. It's worked out great. I basically used the "plan" that Lyle Jamison provides with the hollowing system for the rear rest to build mine originally. Remind me once you have your system and the captured system of your choice to post a picture of how mine is now set up.

[Dario Octaviano]

Dario,
Any reason why you are looking at the Monster Hollow over others? Why a captured over Arm Brace? Just curious on what swayed you this way, shooting for thin walls and figure the captured system is better for that? One reason I ask is I'm trying to decide between which "type" of system to go with.

Brian,

I did compare most of the major brands (I found that CSUSA list is almost complete ;)) but this came on the top. I honestly believe his system offers the most bang for my buck. I love the modular design too. Of course knowing Randy from another forum for years kinda helped too. :p

Why the captured over handheld?
1. I can actually use most of the components as handheld...all I need is a compatible handle (which is part of my plan)

2. I do this as a hobby...don't want the stress (and possibly hospital bills) that goes with blown out pieces. Getting a catch with a tool inserted a small hole while cutting blindly is not my idea of relaxation.

3. Price of wood is too high to waste. (applies to the coring also)

4. I love wood and hate any of it going to waste. (applies to the coring also)

5. The laser helps attain the thin and uniform wall thickness with reduced failure. Again...introducing a hole where I don't want one is not relaxing :D

6. I have so little time to turn...want it to be productive as much as possible.

7. I lack the talent/skill some who can easily do it with a handheld (I know that by using this, I may never learn) :D

I know I missed a lot of other pointers but bottom line is I really feel this is for me...of course a lot of others will feel some other way and that is fine too. :)

[Kevin McPeek]

I have the Monster system (Monster Lathe Tool Deluxe) but without the captured end and laser. Let me say, if you can, get the captured system. Hollowing is pretty hard work once you get off the rest a ways and running with the 45 on. I will build mine up someday, another nice thing about the monster is it's very adaptable. As has been said, it is great quality stuff too.
I can't help you on the coring, all I've seen is Mike Vickery's in action once. Mike Mahoneys video about it is pretty good though.

[Brian McInturff]

Thanks Dario,
Some of your reasons I hadn't really taken into consideration. But now that I think about them they all make since. The main one though is your very first one. I hadn't even thought about that most could be used freehand as well as captured. Guess I get the "DOH"(Homer Simpson) award on that one.

Jim,
Trust me, pics will be coming. I'm still tinkering with my shop layout but plan on having it all figured out by tomorrow evening. How much room do I need on the backside of the lathe. I plan on having it centered on the back wallwith the motor against the wall. I was thinking maybe 12" away from the wall but is 12" enough to get a knockout bar in and or the vacuum hookups? Also, I've decided to keep my 1018 for nor now. Not that I'm trying to follow your footsteps or anything , lathe wise:D .

[Dave Wimmer]

When I bought my Monster tool, he also made me an adapter to use the laser system from it on my McNaughton tool. Works great.

[David Walser]

If you can, leave more than 12" of room away from the wall. I've got my lathe set at a right angle from the wall with the minimum amount of room necessary to get my knockout bar into the headstock. I'm righthanded, which means I prefer to hold tools on the righthand side of my body. Unless I'm presenting the tool at a 90 degree angle to the lathe axis, it can be impossible to hold the tool on the righthand side of my body if I'm making a cut starting close to the headstock and moving towards the tailstock (with the cutting edge pointing in the direction of the cut). Several times I've wished for more room as I've tried to move to the left of the headstock in order to get in proper position for a cut with my skew going from left to right. Same thing when trying to get my bowl gouge to make a finish cut going from the headstock towards the tailstock. Try it out before you set your lathe in place. I keep intending to move mine.

[Jim Becker]

TI plan on having it centered on the back wallwith the motor against the wall. I was thinking maybe 12" away from the wall but is 12" enough to get a knockout bar in and or the vacuum hookups? Also, I've decided to keep my 1018 for nor now. Not that I'm trying to follow your footsteps or anything , lathe wise .

Yes, unless you decide to purchase/make a captive nut to allow removal of drive centers, et all without the use of a knockout bar, you need space between the headstock and the wall. Mine is parallel to the back wall of my shop and the back legs of the stand are about a foot off the wall. This leaves the ways about 18"-22" off the wall and allows for manipulation of the rear support for the hollowing system as well as making my overhead lighting and DC drop easy to work with.

I would have liked to keep the 1018, but space was not condusive to that. (Same for the 14" BS when I bought the MM16) I may pick up a Mini at some point if one or both of the girls get interested in turning. Right now, they are not.

[Ron Sardo]

I just got word from a very reliable source that Bill G's second DVD has a section on using the McNaughton!

Buy the DVD for your wife so she can see the tool in use!!!
Even if you don't get the McNaughton, that's toooooo good of an opportunity to pass up!:D

[Mark Pruitt]

I just got word from a very reliable source that Bill G's second DVD has a section on using the McNaughton!

Indeed it does.:) (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=483227#post483227)

[Kevin McPeek]

Today I found a new use for my Monster Tool. The 6" extension works great for a drill bit extender for the 3/8 shaft forstner bits. I now have bored out my first peppermill blanks.