Conductor's baton

[John Meikrantz]

Any advice on turning a conductor's baton? My son would like to make one for his band teacher. I have read a little on the topic, but have never tried turning anything long and thin on the lathe. What is the basic shaft diameter at base and tip?

Thanks,

John

[Jim Becker]

John, the biggest challenge is keeping a long, thin thing from vibrating wich results in a "corkscrewed" surface. You'll likely need a steady or two for this kind of project. I know when I played with some "Harry Potter" type wands a couple years back, it was a challenge as that was before I owned a "real" steady rest.

[Curt Fuller]

John, I've found that the best way to turn small diameter spindles without a steady rest (I don't have one) is start out with a piece of wood about an inch square and as long as you want the baton to be. I'd guess about 14-16". Mount it between centers or even better in some small chuck jaws but don't put too much pressure on the tailstock so it doesn't try to bow the wood. Then just start at the tail stock end and turn it down to the finished diameter as you work your way back towards the tailstock. The thicker wood that you haven't turned will be strong enough to keep it from bowing and chattering. Just make sure that you get as close to the finished product as possible as you work your way back because if you try to go back the other way it will develop a chatter. Just take light cuts, make your finish cuts, and sand about an inch or so at a time and then work back another inch until you have it done.

[Bill Turpin]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25296&highlight=conductor+baton

[Andy Hoyt]

Here's an old bookmark I've had that describes a string steady.
(http://www.hiltonhandcraft.com/Articles/String_Steady.asp)
Never tried it, but might help you out.

[Jonathon Spafford]

I've never found that you need a steady rest... I've turned over 50 magic wands anywhere from 8-15" in length and some really thin! I just used a skew to thin the shaft. Hold the wand with your left hand with the thumb of your right hand on the top of the skew for fine control. The right hand is held near the top of the skew handle. (reverse this for a left hand). The faster the lathe speed the smoother it seems to go. Also, make sure your skew is SHARP! And of course, make sure you do the handle before the shaft! I've very rarely had a wand break doing it this way... on some weak woods yes, but it doesn't happen too often.