Forrest saw blades

[Merrill Herring]

I just want to say that this Forum has been a wealth of information, and I appreciate everyone's input. My question is in regards to recommendations on 2 saw blades. I need a quality 12" crosscut blade for my sliding miter saw, and a 10" rip for my table saw. I have heard that the Forrest blades, specifically the Chopmaster 12"x80T 30 degree ATBR 5 degree neg. face hook is a great blade. They also make a 10" x24 safety rip blade. I work with hardwoods up to 8/4. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Merrill

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Forrest 12" ChopMaster and have been satisfied with it. I haven't tried any others so I can't make a comparison.

Mike

[everett lowell]

Hi Merill, I have the woodworker ll custom-40 tooth,atf tooth style for fat bottom kerfs,and it has 20degree rake. I've had it on my tablesaw for three years now and I'm very happy I got it! 99% of the time I cut hardwood and she still cuts like a dream.

[Jim Becker]

I put the 12" ChopMaster on my CMS this past year and it's a whole new saw. (I run Forrest blades on my TS, too)

BTW, there is a brand new ChopMaster for sale right now in the SMC Free Classifieds Forum for a VERY good price.

[John Piwaron]

Chopmaster! Excellent blade. I use it in place of the stock blade that came with my DeWalt compound miter saw.

It leaves a very smooth surface.

I also use a thin kerf WW2 on my TS. Excellent.

Keep 'em clean. I let my first WW2 gum up and it got a hot spot and warped. It's not so nice now even after Forrest "straightened" it.

[Dave Falkenstein]

It is hard to go wrong with a Forrest blade. I use the Chopmaster in my Hitachi SCMS and get consistently smooth cuts in all types of material. I don't have a Forrest rip blade, but I do use my WWII for ripping up to an inch in thickness. I would not hesitate to buy the rip blade if I needed a new one.

[Jim Becker]

I forgot to mention I do have a Forrest 20t WW-II ripping blade for my TS. I only use it for thick material, but it goes through "like butter". Now, the finish isn't good like with the WW-II 40t I run normally, but for dedicated ripping, it's a winner for me. The Freud ripping blade would be the alternative I'd suggest for that function, but only for thicker material. The regular 30 or 40t WW-II rips beautifully up to about an inch in my experience.

[John Miliunas]

The 12" Chopmaster has been on my CMS since "Day-1" and I wouldn't trade it for anything! Then, as Jim B. mentions, for thick material, the WWII, 20-tooth just totally rules! I've tried the Dewalt & Freud ripping blades and they just pale in comparison to the 20 tooth Forrest. I've recommended both to a lot of folks at the store where I work part time and have had zero negative feedback on either blade. In fact, a number of the guys have made it a point to look me up to offer their "thanks" in recommending them. :) :cool:

[Jesse Thornton]

I have a WWII 30T TK on my TS, and it cuts phenomenally better than the mid range blade I had on before. After seeing (and feeling) that difference, I plan on getting a Forrest blade for my mitre saw.
Also, if you don't have one already, another thing that made a considerable difference in the quality of my cuts was investing in a good dial indicator/feeler gauge - I thought my setups were pretty accurate, but being able to align things within a few thousanths of an inch really improves performance.

[glenn bradley]

Neg. hook for you slider. Many folks here use Forrest almost exclusively. I like my WWII as a general purpose blade but reach for my Freuds for task specific cuts. I believe I am the minority.

In fairness I have not used Forrest task specific blades but also hear the Chopmaster is a gem.

[Ken Salisbury]

I have a WWI on my RAS, a WWII 40T on my TS and Chopmasters on my 2 miter saws. I learned long ago (14yrs) that you cannot beat Forrest blades.

[Byron Trantham]

I have the Forrest 12" Chop Master, 10" veneer blade, 10" 30 tooth rip blade and the their 7 1/4" veneer blade for my circular saw. Forrest all the way!

[John Miliunas]

I have a WWI on my RAS, a WWII 40T on my TS and Chopmasters on my 2 miter saws. I learned long ago (14yrs) that you cannot beat Forrest blades.

Ken, I'm SO disappointed in you! As soon as I saw a reply from you on this thread, I thought for certain I'd be seeing the familiar:
"Nothing runs like a Deere or cuts like a Forrest!" :D :cool:

[Merrill Herring]

Thanks for everyones input, it seems as if it will be Forrest all the way. They sound to good to be true.

[Ted Diehl]

I'm new to woodworking and based on recommendations from this board, I purchased the Forrest Dado King and a 10" Duraline 80 tooth. I like the blades so much, I just ordered a 12" General Purpose blade. The only reservation I have is they charge an extra $30 for two pin holes my Hammer K3 requires. I don't think you could find a better company to deal with or one with better quality.

[Ben Rivel]

Yep, Forrest blades are all I use/own. They have been nothing but awesome. I get them for great prices from AcmeTools.com when they run their 10% and 15% off site wide sales.

[Chris Padilla]

FYI to folks participating in this thread: it is 10 years old!! :)

FWIW, I really like Forrest blades and their sharpening service is even better. They made my non-Forrest blades cut like Forrest blades. :)

[Van Huskey]

FYI to folks participating in this thread: it is 10 years old!! :)

FWIW, I really like Forrest blades and their sharpening service is even better. They made my non-Forrest blades cut like Forrest blades. :)

The question will the thread extend long enough for someone to point out Forrest is a mid-tier blade and list off a dozen industrial saw manufacturers that build better saws? You can tell it is coming when they call them saws instead of saw blades, since well that is correct.

OK I can't help it... I love my Forrest blades, I have maybe a dozen different grinds but the best I have used are World's Best with cermet tips from Carbide Processors, if you want a better saw (see I did it) give Tom a call and try one out. Nothing like being a contrarian on a necro thread!

Using saw instead of saw blade give your post that industry insider feel and establishes the air of authority in the matter, admit it you want to try one now, mainly because I called it a saw... :eek:

[Chris Padilla]

A 'saw' is a either a handheld instrument that belongs in the Neander section or a tailed item that requires the force of charge dancing through it.

But I'm juts a hobbyist so what do I know? LOL...not much!

:D

[Ron Kellison]

I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my 10" Hitachi slider and love it! I would also recommend the Ridge Carbide 2000 crosscut blade as equivalent to the Forrest WWII as an all-round blade for the tablesaw. I alternate between my Ridge, a Systematic 50-tooth and a Systematic 24-tooth for ripping. All are excellent blades! Unfortunately Systematic blades are no longer made but if you come across one on eBay and it still has some carbide left grab it!

[Bruce Wrenn]

A premium blade is a premium blade, whether it's a Forest, Freud, Amana or any other brand. Forest doesn't perform any magic when it comes to blades. I own two WWII's, one of which is NIB, and the other that Forest rebuilt after it hit one of those staples holding sku tag on a board. Ripped three teeth off blade and damaged several others. After new teeth, and double charges for grinding, a new blade was only a couple bucks more. Sent friends 12", 96 tooth Amana to Dynamic Saw for basically same service, and charges were one third of what Forest wanted. He hit a piece of steel embedded in some melamine panels, FYI. I find Forest blades to be over, over rated, and over priced. Have yet to see a professional cabinet shop running them.

[Van Huskey]

I told you it would happen, Chris... did take a couple of hours though, but still no "saw", but that is unlikely.

[Dave Zellers]

I find Forest blades to be over, over rated, and over priced. Have yet to see a professional cabinet shop running them.

I would be interested in learning what blades (saws :cool:) professional cabinet shops use. The only Forrest blade I own is a 4" for my Porter Cable worm drive trim saw, but it's been awfully good for years now without sharpening.

I also would be interested in learning what the problem is with rekindling old threads. I always thought is was kind of cool but many seem to view it as some kind of a faux pax.

[Dave Zellers]

I get them for great prices from AcmeTools.com when they run their 10% and 15% off site wide sales.

Ya mean like TODAY???????

Had to have my men lash me to the mast to prevent me from pulling the trigger on a SuperMax 19-38.

3 hours left......

[Van Huskey]

I would be interested in learning what blades (saws :cool:) professional cabinet shops use. The only Forrest blade I own is a 4" for my Porter Cable worm drive trim saw, but it's been awfully good for years now without sharpening.

I also would be interested in learning what the problem is with rekindling old threads. I always thought is was kind of cool but many seem to view it as some kind of a faux pax.

Royce/Ayr, Leitz, Hickory Saw and Tool (they even have just saw in their name :D) and a ton more. Now the interesting thing is normally the high end commercial saws won;t give the same level of finish that the more hobby oriented saws will (and usually have chunkier tips). This is a result of the geometry of Forrest/Infinity/Freud saws are designed for the best finish vs longevity. The Freud Next Gen Fusion has a 30* Hi-ATB grind with an axial shear face grind and give a remarkable finish for a 40t blade but will need sharpening way earlier than the pro level saws. So for our uses these are the best blades if you accept their shortcomings.

There was a time when Forrest was WAY ahead of the competition, today they are bunched right in with Freud/Infinity/AGE Amana/Tenryu. The Freud Next Gen Fusion 40t will match the 48t WWII in edge quality in crosscuts (but will be slower in rips). While I don't see Forrest as extremely overrated most of the others make blades just as good often for less. The one blade I swear by in the Forrest line that I haven't found a better blade (for my uses) is the Miter Master (it used to be a special grind of the Chopmaster and I forget what they called it). The again it ain't cheap at about $225 for a 12". Well that and the Dado King.

[Chris Fournier]

Forrest, the choice of folks who don't buy from the industrial manufacturers. Forrest advertised in the hobby woodworking magazines and surprise, the hobby woodworkers think that they are the best. This is not to take anything from Forrest who do make a fine saw but the fact is that many manufacturers make saws that match Forrest for far less $$$.

Superior tool cutter geometry and materials are well established and to think that one manufacturer is head and shoulders superior in the market is extremely naive. Buy what you can afford but know that in some cases you are buying marketing and a saw. They advertise, you pay.

[Dave Zellers]

Thank you Van and Chris!

Very helpful. I've never minded paying up for a tool, it's just always good to know when I'm buying quality not marketing.

[Gregory Stahl]

For ripping purposes--I have a Kanefusa blade that blows away my Forrest and Freud blades. This is the only ripping blade for me now--the others are not even close.

Greg Stahl

[Andrew Hughes]

Forrest made up a 12 inch blade for my Davis and wells saw with a 3/4 bore.
I really like it a lot. I also have 12 inch chop master.
In the past my Forrest blade always came back like new after they did the sharpening.
I like Amana blades too but they are not made in the Us that matters to me.
Ten years in not that long.:)
Heres a pic of my beautiful Forrest blade.

[Eric Rimel]

Back in my Corian Fabricator days I was in charge of blades and sharpening. We used Leitz and Forrest for our panel saw and Forrest exclusively for our table saws. I would track linear feet of cut for each blade as soon as it was installed. Blades dulled quickly cutting Corian and had to be pulled when the bottom side showed any signs of minor chipping. Because we had data on linear feet on a fresh blade, we were able to compare sharpening services. We sent all of our stuff to Forrest, which was a royal pain, but their sharpening service got us the best linear feet. When a sharpening shop came in to ask for our business I'd give them a blade and tell them up front that if it worked for so many linear feet (I can't remember the number, this was early 90's), they'd have our business. It took a couple of years but a sharpening service opened up in Salem Oregon who actually matched/improved on Forrest sharpening. They also started making blades for us. At that point, the Forrest mystique ended for me.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

For ripping purposes--I have a Kanefusa blade that blows away my Forrest and Freud blades. This is the only ripping blade for me now--the others are not even close.

Greg Stahl

I have, and have used a lot of blades over the years. From many of the larger manufacturers (not hardware store brands) like FS Tool, Royce, Nap Gladu (BC Saw) etc as well as Forrest, Dimar, etc.

Hands down, there is some kind of magic in the Kanefusa blades. They are just wicked. And not any more $$ than the competition. Definitely in the past 5 or 6 years, they have become my favourite blades.

[Dave Zellers]

Wow- I'm hearing names here I've never heard before.

Thanks guys.

[Van Huskey]

It took a couple of years but a sharpening service opened up in Salem Oregon who actually matched/improved on Forrest sharpening. They also started making blades for us. At that point, the Forrest mystique ended for me.

Are you talking about Snook's?

It used to be that there was a huge variation in saw shops but today if the saw shop uses the current high tech CNC machine (ie Vollmer) the quality will be almost exactly the same as long as the equipment is setup and maintained properly. While there are still old school saw shops around most of them will butcher a modern blade with complex geometry but with the simple grinds they can do OK.

[Eric Rimel]

This was a long time ago, but a company called BAM was who got us to stop using Forrest sharpening and then started making our blades. They were cheaper blades that got more linear feet per sharpening. I don't know if the BAM of today is the same as it was back then. Our shop was in Portland.

[Van Huskey]

This was a long time ago, but a company called BAM was who got us to stop using Forrest sharpening and then started making our blades. They were cheaper blades that got more linear feet per sharpening. I don't know if the BAM of today is the same as it was back then. Our shop was in Portland.

Never used BAM but have heard of them, I think Snook's is the one that builds saws for Carbide Processors and does their sharpening BUT I could be wrong.

[Eric Rimel]

Back in those days BAM blew everyone else away in terms of linear feet of cut per sharpening for Corian. You could take our 'dull' Corian blades and cut chip free melamine.

Now that I'm in the Midwest I use RKO Saw. They've been top notch for me for 8 years.

[Chris Padilla]

For ripping purposes--I have a Kanefusa blade that blows away my Forrest and Freud blades. This is the only ripping blade for me now--the others are not even close.

Greg Stahl

I picked up some Kanefusa Tersa blades for my Minimax J/P but I have yet to try them out. One day....

[Gene Takae]

I have several different Forrest blades and highly recommend them. Forrest uses harder C4 carbide for the front part of the tooth and slightly softer C2 for the back. This results in a blade that stays sharp longer with less tendency to chip or break. The carbide they use is also thicker allowing for more re-sharpening.

[Van Huskey]

I have several different Forrest blades and highly recommend them. Forrest uses harder C4 carbide for the front part of the tooth and slightly softer C2 for the back. This results in a blade that stays sharp longer with less tendency to chip or break. The carbide they use is also thicker allowing for more re-sharpening.

Never seen any reference to C-2 carbide on a Forrest blade. Normally C-2 is used where more impact resistance than C-4 or C-3 is needed, most if not all saw manufacturers use C-4 unless a customer needs more shock resistance and willing to accept the trade off. While Forrest uses healthy chunks of carbide many of the industrial suppliers like some mentioned in this thread use even beefier teeth and is the reason they are preferred by commercial and industrial users.

[Andy Giddings]

For ripping purposes--I have a Kanefusa blade that blows away my Forrest and Freud blades. This is the only ripping blade for me now--the others are not even close.

Greg Stahl

Greg, am trying to find a US retail supplier of Kanefusa and not having much luck. Do you have one that you use?

[jack duren]

I'll look at which brands we use for each situation at the shop as we make 8/4 tops for restaurants.....Should have this for you tomorrow....

[Gregory Stahl]

Greg, am trying to find a US retail supplier of Kanefusa and not having much luck. Do you have one that you use?


I was going to try this place for my next purchase: akhurstshop.com (http://akhurstshop.com)

They have the glue line rip blade for only $175.

Greg

[Andrew J. Coholic]

I was going to try this place for my next purchase: akhurstshop.com (http://akhurstshop.com)

They have the glue line rip blade for only $175.

Greg

Akhurst does indeed have some, albeit a limited line of the Kanefusa blades. IIRC they stock mainly the 300mm panel saw blades and scoring as well. I'm a regular customer of Akhurst, they have very good service.

Ive bought several from BC Saw & Tool, in Toronto, ON Canada - who was bought out by Nap Gladu. There are a lot of Nap Gladu service centers across the USA. I'd try there. They also manufacture their own blades (which I also have several of). But I'd assume if I can get them through the Toronto location, they should be available from the others as well.

JFYI I am mainly talking about 14" (350mm) blades for my panel saw, and radial arm saw.

[Andy Giddings]

Akhurst does indeed have some, albeit a limited line of the Kanefusa blades. IIRC they stock mainly the 300mm panel saw blades and scoring as well. I'm a regular customer of Akhurst, they have very good service.

Ive bought several from BC Saw & Tool, in Toronto, ON Canada - who was bought out by Nap Gladu. There are a lot of Nap Gladu service centers across the USA. I'd try there. They also manufacture their own blades (which I also have several of). But I'd assume if I can get them through the Toronto location, they should be available from the others as well.

JFYI I am mainly talking about 14" (350mm) blades for my panel saw, and radial arm saw.

Thanks both will try AKhurst and have also put a query into Kanefusa in Kentucky for a local supplier

[Rick Fisher]

I just bought a compliment of Tenryu blades for my panel saw.. I also bought a 14" Forrest. The Forrest is a nice blade but loud. The Tenryu seem to whizz though the air without making screaming sounds.

The Tenryu 100 tooth x 14 tooth leaves a mirrored cut.. Not sure for how long ..

Had I read this before buying I would have tried a Kanefusa..

[Van Huskey]

The Tenryu seem to whizz though the air without making screaming sounds.



Never really understood what Tenryu do with their blades but they are always significantly quieter than my other blades.

[William Bell]

I have a WW 2 40T on my Powermatic 66. It cuts great. No problem on
6/4 or 8/4. It has been on that saw since 1990 and has been sharpened once but is now do again. I have a WW 1 on a Dewalt 12 inch 7790 RAS. It has never been sharpened and the end grain feels like it was sanded. Have both a Chopmaster on a 10 inch Makita and 12 inch Deawalt. Again, endgrain feel like it was sanded. The 10 inch needs sharpening now as it was my primary saw since 1988. The twelve inch Dewalt was put on in 2006 and is still sharp. I have a 8 inch dado set from Forrest which is the best dado I have used, no splintering on veneers and the groves are flat bottomed. I paid 300.00 in 1991. Forrest blades are expensive but are worth it in my view. By them once and be done with it. To previous poster who stated professional shops don,t use them that is not true. I worked part time in a professional shop in Vail, Co. which did. High end work. Told the owner about Forrest and that is all he uses on his altendorf F45 Elmo and PM 66. Most of his competition have switched to Forrest. So professional shops do use them. They were not well known back in the late 1980's.