Drawer sides/back material

[John Keane]

I have used poplar and baltic birch to make dovetailed drawer sides/back.
Thickness is usually 1/2". Negatives are that poplar has to be planed down to size. That is a waste of 5/16ths to 3/8 ths. I have recently been using Baltic birch (15/32)but that has proven to be susceptible to blowout during the rabbet cut (1/16th or less per cut) and while machine cutting the dovetails. I am soliciting suggestions/advice as to how to do this better either with materials or technique. I use the Incra system with the router set to 23000 RPM.

[Jim Becker]

I use poplar for my drawer stock. But I don't start with 3/4" material...I start with 8/4 and resaw it and thickness into three 1/2" thick boards.

I do not prefer to use plywood for drawers.

[glenn bradley]

What Jim said or use a drawer lock joint instead of dovetails in ply.

[John Keane]

I use poplar for my drawer stock. But I don't start with 3/4" material...I start with 8/4 and resaw it and thickness into three 1/2" thick boards.

I do not prefer to use plywood for drawers.

Thanks Jim, your comment is confirmation that poplar would be a better choice. I will have to see if I can find poplar thicker than 4/4.

[Bob Smalser]

My favorite remains edgejoining an oak wear strip on the bottom of Eastern Red Cedar:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/36624669.jpg

Followed by a traditional crossgrain bottom.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/36624721.jpg

Every time the drawer is opened the aroma it provides the room is pleasant. The scantling should be a little larger than for hardwoods...these are 5/8".

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5732475/73536392.jpg

I save all cedar planking cutoffs and lay them up ahead of time specifically for crossgrain drawer bottoms. Cheaper than buying plywood, takes no more shop time to speak of, and thrice as classy.