My New SawStop - What I did NOT expect!!

[Glen Blanchard]

The SawStop is in the garaage, assembled and well tuned. It has had some light duty work so far this weekend as well.

Well I expected a nice saw. I expected nice fit and finish. I expected it to be heavy. Yep, everything just as expected. I also knew that it has enhanced dust collection capabilities. So what did I NOT expect? I did not expect to see a dramatic decrease in the dust being blown across my cast iron surface - not with a zero clearance insert (which comes with the saw btw). Well I apparently should have had greater expectations. I figured the improved dust collection would do a better job of keeping the cabinet from filling up with sawdust - nothing more. Well I am experiencing a significant decrease in above the table dust. Not eliminated, but vastly improved. This has really surprised me and I like it. :eek:

[Jim Becker]

Glen, I strongly suspect what you are experiencing is because of the nice hood they put around the blade under the saw...it concentrates collection at the point of creation a lot better. As you observe, you still get a little "splash" above the table, but there is less material getting there from below. Good deal!

[John Miliunas]

Ain't it just too great when you actually get more than you had expected? :eek: :D That's fantastic, Glen! Congrats on that new piece. I have little doubt that it will not only add safety but, more pleasure to your WW experience. :) :cool:

[Robert Mahon]

Just a thought:
Would drilling a pattern of small holes in the Zero clearance insert result in more airflow around it to reduce the dust blowout? Obviously I am aware the a board over the holes would preclude this but might it work for relatively narrow work?

Another thought:
I do not have a bandsaw and have been using the tablesaw to resaw 4/4 by 6" wide boards, which has worked quite well so far. In order that I do this, the guard and splitter must be removed (I stand to the side to avoid being victimized by kick-back, handle the boards with gloves and hold the board only on the edge to avoid injured fingers).

Are there any scare stories about this practice?

[John Miliunas]

Just a thought:
Would drilling a pattern of small holes in the Zero clearance insert result in more airflow around it to reduce the dust blowout? Obviously I am aware the a board over the holes would preclude this but might it work for relatively narrow work?

Another thought:
I do not have a bandsaw and have been using the tablesaw to resaw 4/4 by 6" wide boards, which has worked quite well so far. In order that I do this, the guard and splitter must be removed (I stand to the side to avoid being victimized by kick-back, handle the boards with gloves and hold the board only on the edge to avoid injured fingers).

Are there any scare stories about this practice?

Robert, I have to believe you're right on the holes but, as you state, that may only be relative to when you're doing more narrow work. That said, I do indeed do a lot of narrow work and may try that! Thanks. :)

Resawing on the TS is indeed risky business and I'm glad you're taking some precautions. However, that's another area where the SS, Euro saws and even the new PM2000 (Powermatic) will also hold advantages. They all have riving knives, which stay just a touch under TDC of the top of the saw blade, thus helping to prevent kickback even when the blade is completely buried in the material. :) :cool:

[Jim Becker]

Would drilling a pattern of small holes in the Zero clearance insert result in more airflow around it to reduce the dust blowout?

Not really because most of the material that appears above the table when a ZCI is in use is being pulled up by the saw teeth. The SS's shroud around the blade under the table that concentrates dust collection efficiency helps reduce this because less dust/chips are available to be pulled up-top, however. The most effective way to collect that top-side dust/chips is with an overarm collection system.

[J.R. Rutter]

A hole in the insert will help when you are ripping off an edge. With the teeth exposed and the overarm guard riding up off the table, the hole will grab a lot of the dust. Just like DC piping, a single larger hole will get more than multiple small ones if it is in the right place.

For resawing, if you have a removeable splitter like the Biesemeyer or Delta, you can make an insert without pawls that can stay in place for resawing. Just make the length to approximate a riving knife at your most common blade height.

[David Tiell]

In order that I do this, the guard and splitter must be removed (I stand to the side to avoid being victimized by kick-back, handle the boards with gloves and hold the board only on the edge to avoid injured fingers).

Are there any scare stories about this practice?I have always been under the impression that wearing gloves while working on table saw was a bad thing to do, and that they could actually make things worse if you happen to contact the blade by getting caught and pulling you into it even further. Kind of like not wearing a tie while turning. Does anyone else have an input on this issue? Also, might gloves cause problems, especially on a SawStop saw, which requires skin contact to activate?

Just wondering.

[Glen Blanchard]

Robert -

IMO, gloves and power tools are a potentially dangerous mix. You might wnat to re-think that strategy?

Do you own a SawStop? If so, as David states, you are working "against" the technology designed to protect you. Even if you do not own a SawStop, I think most here will tell you that gloves are not a good idea.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

I have always been under the impression that wearing gloves while working on table saw was a bad thing to do, and that they could actually make things worse if you happen to contact the blade by getting caught and pulling you into it even further.
David, I agree with you. Some people argue that a TS blade will cut the glove rather than snag it, but I'm not staking my fingers on that prediction.

The following accident report is quoted from "WWA Accident Survey Reports":

"A friend needed a short length of monofilament fishing line from his shop. Unable to find his utility knife to cut it with, he spotted his tablesaw. He wrapped the line around both hands and eased the line into the spinning blade, assuming it would chew the line apart. The line caught in a blade gullet and wrapped around the arbor, pulling both hands into the blade. He lost parts of 3 fingers, and also suffered serious cuts from the line as it was pulled tight around his hands. He is no longer a woodworker, and cannot stand to be in the same room with a running saw."

Assuming this account is accurate, I think it's fair to say that the TS does create an entanglement hazard. I can imagaine that a dangling thread or drawstring could do the same thing.

[John Schreiber]

The following accident report is quoted from "WWA Accident Survey Reports":

"A friend needed a short length of monofilament fishing line from his shop. Unable to find his utility knife to cut it with, he spotted his tablesaw. He wrapped the line around both hands and eased the line into the spinning blade, assuming it would chew the line apart. The line caught in a blade gullet and wrapped around the arbor, pulling both hands into the blade. He lost parts of 3 fingers, and also suffered serious cuts from the line as it was pulled tight around his hands. He is no longer a woodworker, and cannot stand to be in the same room with a running saw." Makes my stomach tie up in knots to read that. Just too easy to imagine.

[Matt Moore]

RE: fishing line accident

At first thought I would think the blade would just cut the line but our thoughts are not always correct.

I agree that were gloves is adding to the risk of using the saw.

[Ted Baca]

Just a note to Glen. I finally got my DC hooked up to the SS yesterday and made my maiden cut and WOW you're right. I may forgo the over arm
blade cover for Dust Collection reasons. Pretty impressive, not enough dust to brush off the table top. Sometimes you just get more reward than you bargained for.

[Robert Mahon]

Perhaps I should have been more clear in my post.
For background:
I was an Aerospace Prototype Machinst for a number of years, operating Lathes, Mills, Boring Machines, Hobs, ID/OD, tool and Surface Grinders, Shapers, etc. and am very aware of the dangers associated with long sleeves, watches, rings, gloves, etc.

What I was not clear about was that I only wear the gloves to avoid splinters from the wood being worked when re-sawing, should the board kick-back (a 3 HP saw can move a good size chunk of wood pretty quickly). When re-sawing, my hands/fingers are never closer than 6 inches to the blade.

Other than that, gloves are not on my "Favorites" list due to the safety consideration you've noted. That and and the fact I lose the 'feel' for what is being done (yes, I get a lot of small splinters - from Rosewood especially :( ).

I've had too many 'Close Encounters of the 3rd kind' to lose sight of how dangerous sharp moving things can be :eek: .