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View Full Version : Ideas for Performax drum sander stand?



Dan Forman
12-06-2006, 9:15 PM
Has anyone built their own stand/cabinet for one of the larger Performax sanders? I have the 22/44, and am trying to save the 300 and some clams that Jet wants for the stand, tables, and castors. It would need to be mobile, and able to support at least 250 pounds. I would like to include infeed and outfeed support for stock, and have some cabinet space for storage.

This would be my first cabinet. I have a well equipped shop, but not a lot of experience. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.

I know we have the design forum, but I thought it might be seen by more eyes if posted here. Maybe it could be moved over there in a couple of days.

Dan

Hoa Dinh
12-06-2006, 9:20 PM
I'm sure you can use some ideas from this article (http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/PmaxSander/toolspmaxsander.html).

Jim Becker
12-06-2006, 9:20 PM
Yup... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11169&highlight=22-44

And I do recommend you build your own infeed/outfeed tables and make them folding. The OEM units are fixed position and make for the need of more storage space in the "tool corral"...

Dan Forman
12-06-2006, 10:28 PM
Wow, that was fast! Thanks guys.

Jim, thats's just the sort of thing I had in mind, And Hoa, the article will be usefull in designing the tables.

So there is no extra support on the bottom of the cab, just the 3/4" ply? How big are the wheels?

Is that 3/4" poplar running lengthwise across the front and back as support for the table, and the center piece a little deeper and oriented edge up rather than flat? I'm assuming a 3/4" dado all around the top?

How did you join the box? Would pocket screws work for this, and if so, how would you space them?

Dan

Tyler Howell
12-06-2006, 11:07 PM
I used the stand from the old Cman jointer. Works great.

Jim Becker
12-07-2006, 11:15 AM
Dan, the cabinet uses "normal" cabinet construction...of which there are many methods. For that project I used dados/rabbits/grooves with glue and a few 15 guage finish nails. (I'd likely use pocket screws today for speed) The wheels are the same ones I've somewhat standardized on...double locking 4" casters from Lee Valley. I have them on my router table and my kitchen island, too. The top is a double layer of MDF with laminate. (I used an old piece of patterned laminate that I had lying about) The face frame is poplar; the cabinet is birch ply. There is one (fixed) shelf on the inside.

Keith Outten
12-07-2006, 12:39 PM
I may as well put in another plug for a hydraulic table. I mounted my drum sander on a light duty 330 pound model, I drilled four holes and installed four fasterners and was done. Very sturdy, rolls around nicely and stores under my router so it doesn't take any floor space. The top of the table drops to 10" from the floor and provides just about any working height that is comfortable. This might not work if your drum sander has the motor mounted underneath. Mine is the 10/20 and has the motor mounted on the back of the sander.

:)

.

Dan Forman
12-07-2006, 4:03 PM
Tyler---But then what would I do with the jointer? :)

Jim---Thanks for the details.

Keith---How much was the hydraulic table?

Dan

Tyler Howell
12-07-2006, 4:12 PM
[quote=Dan Forman]Tyler---But then what would I do with the jointer? :)

Dan,
Just swap it for floor sanding services!!
I got 2 rooms out of the guy for it:D :D
PS Northern and HF have keith's table in varying sizes for varying $$$

Joe Meazle
12-07-2006, 4:33 PM
I did what Keith did with my 22/44 and it was the only way it could fit in my shop. I paid $99 for my hydraulic table when homier came to town. When not in use it lives under my miter saw.