Bandsaw won't cut lamb shops?

[Paul Lueders]

Last weekend I had 6 sheep I butchered the previous weekend to cut & wrap, along with two deer. I tried cutting lamb chops on my band saw for the first time, but after about 6 beautiful cuts the blade kept coming off the wheel tires. They sure got greasy quick.:confused: Went back to the Sawsall, a fine butchering tool.

My question is: What is the difference in a meat cutting band saw? How does the blade stay on the saw? Anybody know?
Paul

[Sam Kennard]

Try this link and look at the left column where the wheel and blade make contact. It seems that it slopes towards the back a little with a stop on the back of the wheel.

Meat bandsaw. (http://www.pleasanthillgrain.com/electric_meat_saw_band_saws_cutting.asp)

[Joe Mioux]

I would say aluminum and stainless steel v steel and painted steel.

[Jim DeLaney]

Man, are you gonna have a mess to clean up!

Better get to it quick, too. It's gonna stink up the whole shop when that lamb tallow and meat bits goes rancid!

[Mike Parzych]

Maybe the lamb should have been kiln dried before butchering.

[Robert Mickley]

Maybe the lamb should have been kiln dried before butchering.

At the very least it should have been dehydrated :D:D

[Bob Childress]

Paul, it's a bit more complicated than that.

When I bandsaw sheep shanks and shoulders I first age them until the moisture content is down around 6 percent. Otherwise, you will get mutton movement in your finished pieces. (Since most of my mutton is resawed, your experience may vary.) To resaw, I take a sheep joint and first run it throught the jointer to get a flat joint, then I run the flat edge against my fence to get perfectly proportioned pieces a bit oversized. (I try to finish each cut near a bone to minmize the chances of tear out.) Then it's just a quick pass or two through the planer to achieve finished size and voila!--succulent sheep shoulder and shank sections suitable for shish-ke-bob.

Your blade is slipping because your joints are too juicy. Juicy joints are the most common problem in sheep shoulder and shank sawing.

Hope this helps.

[Matt Meiser]

From what I remember as a teenager working at a grocery store, there were no tires on the meat bandsaw. There were ridges which I assume helped keep the "stuff" from building up under the blade to where it slipped. We hosed it out every night. Not sure I would do that with my Delta.

[Al Willits]

Go to your room Bob.....

I'm not gonna tell you how long I sat and looked at this monitor thinking "what the heck is he talking about"....:)

I will not look at this forum untill I have my second cup of coffee anymore....

Al

[Bob Childress]

You're welcome, Al. :D :D :D

[Bill Boehme]

Just don't ask to borrow any of my tools.:D

Bill

[Mitchell Andrus]

Thanks for the am chuckle... I know this is supposed to be a serious Q, but the mental picture of running half a sheep around the shop....

[Dave Richards]

I was under the impression that they keep the blade on the wheels by welding it to them. :D

[John Miliunas]

Paul, it's a bit more complicated than that.

When I bandsaw sheep shanks and shoulders I first age them until the moisture content is down around 6 percent. Otherwise, you will get mutton movement in your finished pieces. (Since most of my mutton is resawed, your experience may vary.) To resaw, I take a sheep joint and first run it throught the jointer to get a flat joint, then I run the flat edge against my fence to get perfectly proportioned pieces a bit oversized. (I try to finish each cut near a bone to minmize the chances of tear out.) Then it's just a quick pass or two through the planer to achieve finished size and voila!--succulent sheep shoulder and shank sections suitable for shish-ke-bob.

Your blade is slipping because your joints are too juicy. Juicy joints are the most common problem in sheep shoulder and shank sawing.

Hope this helps.

Here's John. In Wisconsin. Cleaning his LCD flat panel again. Looking down. Shaking his head! :( (OK, not that. Actually, ROFLM.... :D ) :cool: